Instruction Manual of a Axminister Pop Riveting gun

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Carlow52

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Ive got that, I might have the manual, but is probably a long shot -will have a look for you.

As Matt says, there isnt much to a rivet gun, just different size nozzles for rivet sizes.

Its a powerful gun, much much easier than a manual gun the greatest advantage is that since you need a lot of force to operate it, you can concentrate on holding the 2 pieces together with one hand and pull the trigger with the other.
 
You have to be careful that the type of rivets used don't strip the teeth on the claws inside the machine, so if you are contemplating stainless rivets, think again, and always use the correct collet for the diameter of rivet used. Make sure the stub of the last rivet is clear and out of the riveter before doing the next one. Apart from that, the design has been around for awhile and will put up a reasonable performance.
 
t8hants":1uhb576m said:
You have to be careful that the type of rivets used don't strip the teeth on the claws inside the machine, so if you are contemplating stainless rivets, think again, and always use the correct collet for the diameter of rivet used. Make sure the stub of the last rivet is clear and out of the riveter before doing the next one. Apart from that, the design has been around for awhile and will put up a reasonable performance.

Having ruined more than one rivet gun as above (stripped the teeth), a couple of suggestions:

Use some light machine oil on the collet the jaws close into. It stops them sticking. If they stick, they slip on the shaft of the rivet: if they don't slip, they don't wear as quickly.

If you can, strip the business end of the gun and clean the serrations on the jaws after each session with a wire brush, more frequently if you're doing a lot in one go (there should be a strong spring involved, so be sure you can get it back together before undoing the last half-turn. DAMHIK this!).

I'm uncertain about oil on the jaw serrations themselves. One instruction booklet I had said to do this, others haven't. It does stop metal building up on the jaws, and makes them easier to clean with a wire brush, but it also makes them more slippery. I think oil is good when the tool is new and the serrations are sharp. Worth a try - you can always degrease it in a jamjar if it makes it stop gripping well.

All the ones I've had have been either the 'pliers' type or lazy tongs. The mech in the air ones is similar, just uses air to apply the force, so maintenance is much the same I'd guess.

I completely agree about not-aluminium rivets. Can't see the point if you keep a range of sizes. I've never had a problem with properly sized Aluminium ones failing, even in vehicle applications. The steel ones are really hard to set properly, too, and I've had them 'pop' prematurely leaving a loose rivet that's really annoying to remove (I don't own hardened end-cutting pliers, which is what you'd need, assuming you can get to the rivet in the first place!).
 
Thanks for the replies, the message went into spam so did'nt see till now.
Let me try post a pic of all the kit in the box tomorrow
 
Practical note: for stripping anything with strong springs and small parts involved, I use a big clear plastic bag to put parts and hands in while you work on the bench. The ones for dry cleaning are pretty good, if you tape up the hole for the coathanger. If something pings, it's caught and doesn't escape..
 
Thanks for all the input.
Had a closer look today and got it to work.
Its a nice item.
Some questions re the tool if I may:
Where is the torque regulator referred to in the scant literature I have?
I tried a few trial pieces and in one case using plastic the head pulled through
What is the best way to address the oiling requirement?
Should I fit an inline oiler close to the tool or just go with the few drops in the exhaust vent as described in the literature
What sort of oil should I use? will the oil for the compressor work?
Thanks again
 
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