infill restored mk1

[tobytools]

Good afternoon gentlemen.
This is a project that has is long over due, like most.
here i will show my first ever attempt of making an infill and trying to restore it to a usable degree,
i could write a long and boring speech of how i did this but safe to say the proof is in the picture, they will follow shortly.

i will not that the wood used is a piece of hawthorn that i got from work some time last year and wasn't fully dry, this hasn't caused any major problems yet. however i think its shrinking lol. i though it best to try out on some free wood rather than buy and waste some good timber, the iron i brought for this plane as the original was on its way out and if im going full hog why not!
i know the plane body isn't the best but im unable in skill, space,time and know how to make these parts myself, (some day i will be able to or so i hope) for now this keeps me happy, and thats what its about i guess.

the infill and cleaning was all done by hand, i used a pillar drill to for a couple of mins to help get out the rivets, had to bang them out in the end, nightmare.
all the cutting and shaping was done by hand (no mitre box, measurements) just by eye and im happy how it turned out.

some might say that the plane was fine before, but wheres the fun in that, but dont be fooled the pics do it real justice it was a mess the infills didn't fit well at all and i didn't like the tote of the ugly rivets so i decided to have a play, after all the plane cost me £27 isn if i remember correct so worth a gamble. did it pay off?

this is just a practise infill as there is a lot im not happy with so i will be replacing this one in the future but for now its fine, next time i will overstuff as thats what i prefer
if anyone is interested in how i cleaned or finished any parts on this just ask and ill be happy to help,
safe to say if i can do this anyone can.

thanks for taking the time to read, now the pics ( these took me ages to do so appreciate lol)

TT

 

[tobytools]

More Pictures

 

[tobytools]

i know what your think the screws look ****, im going to replace with better one but in brass when ever that is

 

[Richard T]

Looking good Toby.

If the infills shrink at least there are screws to undo to replace them.

A good tip with new infill wood is to try to get as much raw Linseed oil soaked in as poss after they are in. This makes absorbing and losing moisture much slower. But the best tip is to cut to oversize as long as you can before using them. Put by wood now for making infills years from now in other words.

Looks like it works really well.

 

[tobytools]

Thanks Richard,
I did apply linseed to infill but not as much as I should of, a bit if an amateur mistake but te practise for sharpening ect was worth while.
I have some wood that's been stored for a lot longer and at some stage will be cutting to oversized cubes for use later on.

Out of the 3 the middle one is the same that had a non parralle iron with the crack in casting if you remember,I was looking for a iron slightly over 2" but after butting a 2" parrallel it's perfect I think it cracked because some one stuck a 2 3/16th or similar into it and used it like that and it's opened the mouth, it's not a tight as befor but still works a treat.

I have a spires infill in restoring also I've just to shape a new tote and then stain and finish ect. Hopefully get on with this during the week if I get in the right frame of mind and have time.

Thanks mate
TT

 

[Waka]

TT

As a lover of infills I think you have done an excellent job on the restorations, something I don't think I'd tackle those jobs.

 

[AndyT]

Nice one Toby!

It's difficult to know what to rebuild and what to leave as it is, but in this case I would say that your original plane was ordinary at best and a good candidate for treatment, especially at that price.

OK, there are some details to finish off, but it's looking a whole lot better. I like hawthorn - I still have a letter knife that I whittled as a boy, which I believe is hawthorn - it's beautifully hard and close grained, a bit like box but with more character.

Have you considered using a higher build finish such as Tru-oil?

 

[tobytools]

Nice one Toby!

It's difficult to know what to rebuild and what to leave as it is, but in this case I would say that your original plane was ordinary at best and a good candidate for treatment, especially at that price.

OK, there are some details to finish off, but it's looking a whole lot better. I like hawthorn - I still have a letter knife that I whittled as a boy, which I believe is hawthorn - it's beautifully hard and close grained, a bit like box but with more character.

Have you considered using a higher build finish such as Tru-oil?

Thanks Andy,
I know there are a few tweaks left to play with, I'm not very happy that the dovetailing is so visible, I guess there is a load of crud between but taking it apart or trying to pean it just didn't seem worth it.
I hadn't thought about a finish really as I rather like the wood but I'll have a look into this oil, what's your experiences with it?
Once I replace the crews it will make a huge diffrance. I was even thinking of re riviting it so I could have a go at that side of plane making, but best to start small.
I like hawthorn to I wish I would of kept all the logs now as I only took the one. Had about 10 decent ones
I'm going to stock up with material when it's available.

Thanks mate
TT

 

[tobytools]

TT

As a lover of infills I think you have done an excellent job on the restorations, something I don't think I'd tackle those jobs.

Cheers mate,
These nice word for very capable woodworker is a great boost.
It was easyier to try on this cheap plane and fun too. but if it was say for one of your S&S I would be to nurvious lol
As a first attemp I'm over the moon, some day I'll make beautiful planes from scratch like Richard T and other ukw memebers.

Thank you
TT

 

[AndyT]

Toby I learned about Tru-oil from Jimi. Have a look at some of his posts such as his Scottish infill https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/scottish-infill-smoother-restoration-t64459-30.html

I've used it on plane and chisel handles. It's tough and economical.

 

[tobytools]

Toby I learned about Tru-oil from Jimi. Have a look at some of his posts such as his Scottish infill https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/scottish-infill-smoother-restoration-t64459-30.html

I've used it on plane and chisel handles. It's tough and economical.

Thanks Andy,
I've seen this thread befor but thanks for the reminder,
Jimi is exceptionally skilled,
I will soke the infills again I think, and I'm going to get some micro mesh, I've only got 2 sand papers so I think I should invest in some better stuff.
I dout I'll do much more to these infill, after seeing those I'm going to redo them in the next week or so. I'm out of hawthorn but might have some yew.
I Duno what I got tbh until I check the shed, it's all to green anyways,
I think I'll ask my collage teacher if he can sort me some chunky wood ready

TT

 

[jimi43]

Hi Toby

I have been following your progress on these finds offline from UKW and appreciate your sharing your steps with me via email.

As I have said, the craftsmen who originally made these fine tools were true masters. The issues involved with creating infills, particularly for a casting are far greater than one would imagine until you start tinkering with restoring them and it is only then you find out that it's not quite as easy as it looks. The old boys were particularly skilled as they did wonders with hand tools without the benefit of bandsaws, milling machines and other mod cons.

The great thing is that you have started by practicing on wood you have lying around and it's wonderful that you actually cut the wood down yourself and lay it for seasoning. Of all the restorers, you are following the most traditional path trodden by your predecessors and I would love to see some nice air dried English walnut made into some infills.

Regarding the abrasives for finishing....I settled on 3M MicroMesh early on because it lasts so long if you look after it. I buy sets of 6"x4" in packs of 9 going from 1500 to 12000 mesh from THIS SUPPLIER ON FLEABAY.

The tip with micromesh is to ensure it doesn't get overheated or contaminated. Contamination e.g. using on brass then on light wood will transfer a stain so I keep one set for metal and two for wood...one dark wood, one for light wood. It lasts far longer that way. You can wash it in the washing machine and as long as it's not abused it comes out new again, the wash removing all inter-grit clogging.

I had a long journey on the coarser abrasives though until I followed a few recommendations on here for Abranet which again appears ridiculously expensive until you use it. Abranet performs the same was as micromesh in that it is extremely hard wearing, does not clog and creates a great base finish to move to micromesh. I buy boxes of mixed grits (P120 to P400). I get mine from THIS FLEABAY SUPPLIER. This means that I have a progressive chain of finishing abrasives from fairly coarse to mirror finish. Apparently the 12000 Mesh produces scratch patterns which are undetectable to the human eye without magnification.

So...you have started well by buying the wonderful "handle-maker's" rasp from Noel at Liogier, a fine investment indeed and you can go from this to the Abranet and right up to the 12000 Mesh micromesh and you will achieve the desired finish.

Keep posting your work in progress. It will be a huge benefit to others following behind you.

Cheers

Jimi

 

[tobytools]

Hi Toby

I have been following your progress on these finds offline from UKW and appreciate your sharing your steps with me via email.

As I have said, the craftsmen who originally made these fine tools were true masters. The issues involved with creating infills, particularly for a casting are far greater than one would imagine until you start tinkering with restoring them and it is only then you find out that it's not quite as easy as it looks. The old boys were particularly skilled as they did wonders with hand tools without the benefit of bandsaws, milling machines and other mod cons.

The great thing is that you have started by practicing on wood you have lying around and it's wonderful that you actually cut the wood down yourself and lay it for seasoning. Of all the restorers, you are following the most traditional path trodden by your predecessors and I would love to see some nice air dried English walnut made into some infills.

Regarding the abrasives for finishing....I settled on 3M MicroMesh early on because it lasts so long if you look after it. I buy sets of 6"x4" in packs of 9 going from 1500 to 12000 mesh from THIS SUPPLIER ON FLEABAY.

The tip with micromesh is to ensure it doesn't get overheated or contaminated. Contamination e.g. using on brass then on light wood will transfer a stain so I keep one set for metal and two for wood...one dark wood, one for light wood. It lasts far longer that way. You can wash it in the washing machine and as long as it's not abused it comes out new again, the wash removing all inter-grit clogging.

I had a long journey on the coarser abrasives though until I followed a few recommendations on here for Abranet which again appears ridiculously expensive until you use it. Abranet performs the same was as micromesh in that it is extremely hard wearing, does not clog and creates a great base finish to move to micromesh. I buy boxes of mixed grits (P120 to P400). I get mine from THIS FLEABAY SUPPLIER. This means that I have a progressive chain of finishing abrasives from fairly coarse to mirror finish. Apparently the 12000 Mesh produces scratch patterns which are undetectable to the human eye without magnification.

So...you have started well by buying the wonderful "handle-maker's" rasp from Noel at Liogier, a fine investment indeed and you can go from this to the Abranet and right up to the 12000 Mesh micromesh and you will achieve the desired finish.

Keep posting your work in progress. It will be a huge benefit to others following behind you.

Cheers

Jimi

Thanks jimi,
Your kind words mean a lot to an novice such as myself, I still have a lot to learn but trial and error is a good way to start and I'm confiedent my next attempt will be far superior (fingers crossed) I was going to go through the wood shed but far to cold
Thanks for the link to the mesh I'll put these on my stocking list (early stocking list)
In the link Andy provided I saw the mirror finish on the wood infill itself, amazing, i have some camellia wood I've had stored for a while that is very hard wood like box and hawthorn so I'll have a play with a scrap bit and see how it matures with sunlight (I'll cheat and use a lamp) or do what bill carter does.
So many things I want to try.

I will post my improvements when they are done, I'm feeling up to the spires tote now so I'll have to put some time aside this weekend to do this, I'll do it in my work shed (NANs shed) as at home in the lounge I'm to lazy ha.

Thanks jimi,
Talk soon mate
TT