Identifying a finish?

[Sailor]

Good evening,

I've been given a very large tool chest, Victorian, I believe.
The inside is finished in burr elm and is in reasonable condition for it's age.
One the outside, what appears to be the original surface has a couple of patches thats had something like paint stripper spilled on it thats really damaged the finish.

I'm trying to figure out what it, (the outside,) has been painted with, it looks and feels like dimpled dark tan leather with lots of tiny bubbles, 1-2mm dia each. It feels quite tactile and I would like to re-finish it in the same way, if I can.

Has anyone any idea what it might be?

Many thanks for any ideas,

Colin

 

[mr]

Sorry no idea about the finish,
But would be very interested to see some pictures if you have any. A large toolchest is on my list of things to do and rapidly becoming more important.

Seeing the finish might help someone identify it as well.

Cheers Mike

 

[Scrit]

I'm trying to figure out what it, (the outside,) has been painted with, it looks and feels like dimpled dark tan leather with lots of tiny bubbles, 1-2mm dia each. It feels quite tactile and I would like to re-finish it in the same way, if I can.

Has anyone any idea what it might be?

Victorian means a limited range of finishes. Being a tool chest it would probably have been finished in either a lead-based paint or a varnish. The other finishes I associate with the period, milk paint, wax, French polish and lacquer don't hold bubbles and wouldn't have been durable enough. So on reflection I'd opt for heat/sun damaged (?) varnish which I've seen end up like you describe. The bubbles would seem to confirm that as you need to be careful when applying varnish to ensure that you don't get bubbles, especially if the tin has been shaken of knocked over (which may be a clue to reproducing it)

Any chance of a photo?

Scrit

 

[Colin C]

From what you have said I think Scrit is spot on

 

[houtslager]

It could be French polish - and been left in a window and the sun cooked it.
I 've seen that before, lots of pin picks all over the surface. The other possiblity is smole damage.This leaves the suface very "gungy" and black/brown.

Try cleaning with a vineger water, if no luck then use a meths solution.

Post piccies when you got a mo and maybe mum advice woll come.

 

[Sailor]

Morning,
The description of the 'bubbling' varnish sounds like it could be right!

If thats the case, I'll try the idea of maybe shaking the can before applying on some scrap and see if I can get close.
Even if it it a result of damage, I would prefer to repair/blend in with the remaining finish, rather than remove and start again.
Starting again, I might just as well make a new chest.

Many thanks,

Colin

ps.
Mike,
I haven't put any pictures of the inside, as I have it all in bits for renovation. However, there are some very good pictures of impressive toolboxes/chests on this site.

 

[Colin C]

Hi Colin
I think you should be able to get htat finish with some crakel (?) glaze as that is what happens to old varnish.

I dont think Scrit idea will get the same finish

 

[Alf]

Victorian means a limited range of finishes.

Being cynical, Victorian means to me "plenty of time for someone to have put an incompatible finish over the top" :lol:

 

[norman]

Hi

lead based paint to match colour etc. then distress with hot air gun to raise the bubble pattern to match. try on scrap to get your tech. right.
Norman

 

[houtslager]

yep I think Ol'Norman has got it, I too think its an old lead paint, that has "cooked" over the passage of time, so test on scrap re- coat with a Matt varnish and you may be very close to the old finish.

All the best

 

[Nick W]

Erm, isn't the idea of mixing heat with lead based paints highly deprecated these days? :?

I do know that you can get testing kits to determine if a finish is lead based.

 

[Colin C]

Heating lead based paint will release the lead for you to breath :shock:

 

[Scrit]

"Please back away slowly from that LEAD PAINT, or I might have to shoot"

:wink:

 

[Colin C]

Scrit
#-o
I have the bostick because for years I have had to repair bad diy jobs that have been done with it ( have two chairs in the work shop at the moment with it :evil: ) and it is a PITA to get off cleanly :roll:

 

[norman]

Hi
Erm, isn't the idea of mixing heat with lead based paints highly deprecated these days?

In a word Yes!
but if you want the same finish its the way to go.
How long can you hold your breath???.

Norman

 

[Colin C]

How long can you hold your breath???.

Norman

[-X [-X :shock:

 

[Jake]

It isn't that deprecated - much better than sanding it, and actually one of the two methods approved for removing it, the other being chemical stripping. The lead doesn't vapourise very easily. Don't use a blow torch (this is deprecated, as they do get hot enough to vapourise the lead), use a heatgun, on one notch below max if you want to be cautious. The max temp you are supposed to heat it to is 600C, which is about the max output of most heatguns (at the nozzle).

Whether you can still buy lead paint, I don't know.

 

[Scrit]

Whether you can still buy lead paint, I don't know.

Yes you can, although only for industrial applications. It's durability means it is still used on bridges (red lead) and it's the primer of choice on stuff like old steam boilers - apparently lead primer seems to adhere better and last longer

I've been told when removing the stuff that I should wear a particulate breather, "romper suit" (painter's coverall) and gloves at all times as well (renovating some very old machinery at the moment, so quite relevant) and that the vacuum cleaner needs to have a HEPA filter instead of the standard one. The advice I was given was also to change my clothes (wash separately) and shower after handling the stuff. It's the flakes and dry sanding dust that seem to cause the biggest problems, especially in children and pregnant women

BTW A guide on repainting and removal of old lead painted surfaces is available free from The British Coatings Federation, James House, Bridge Street, Leatherhead KT22 7EP, or the on-line guide is here

Scrit