Jameshow
Established Member
Brought this bandsaw for any idea what it is?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/27588961...tixoXeJTeO&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/27588961...tixoXeJTeO&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Identify this bandsaw!
- Thread starter Jameshow
- Start date
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A money pit ?
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Ttrees
Iroko loco!
Looks like a Meber 400 to me.
I guess you're still sweating from the auction!
What a find.
Good luck with it.
Tom
I guess you're still sweating from the auction!
What a find.
Good luck with it.
Tom
John Brown
Freeloading Social media influenza
Is it 3 phase?
Jameshow
Established Member
pgrbff
Established Member
yes it is 3 phase.
Seimec is an Italian motor manufacturer, I don't know if they made tools in the past
Seimec is an Italian motor manufacturer, I don't know if they made tools in the past
pgrbff
Established Member
Seimec Spa closed down
Hornbeam
Established Member
It looks very similar to my Multico. Very similar casting patterns on teh foot brake, fence etc. Looks like it has the GL blade guides which are very good and easy to adjust. Suspect the table wont tilt to 45. What a snip at £60
Ttrees
Iroko loco!
No other manufacturer other than Meber and Multico I believe, has that slant on the upper section of the column.
The difference most notable between the two is the guidepost.
Though the frame is not the same either, if you look at the Meber having a square section column,
but interestingly Meber maunfacturers the same folded profile of below on the larger machines.
I'd guess that might be where Multico sourced their frames?
The SNAC like fold on the Multico, but seemingly starting at the 500 from the possible original source.
Also worth noting the wheels apparently have the same groove as Centauro, i.e the one which @sams93 acquired recently looks to be somewhat similar.
Here's a thread where Van Huskey mentioned the factories being in very close proximity to each other.
https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?183749-Italian-Bandsaws
Regards
Tom
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The current production SCM S440(?) has the slant on the column, I remember as I used to fit e-stops to them for the UK education market not too long ago and you had to get it right or it would foul the door. But I’ve a feeling these weren’t made in the SCM factory. I remember being told that most Italian bandsaw frames come from one factory and are just fitted with various motors and badged by different manufacturers.
Ttrees
Iroko loco!
The newer SCM formula look to be very similarly based and likely produced on the ACM SNAC line,
if.... that's the slant in which you are referring to.
Those are made in Novelara I'd think
The ACM line now looks to have that leaning appearance of the Centauro saws,
and there are differences between.
Getting confusing trying to describe those terms.
You can see there are indeed at least two separate factories seemingly... making the frames up.
if.... that's the slant in which you are referring to.
Those are made in Novelara I'd think
The ACM line now looks to have that leaning appearance of the Centauro saws,
and there are differences between.
Getting confusing trying to describe those terms.
You can see there are indeed at least two separate factories seemingly... making the frames up.
Jameshow
Established Member
Picked it up today. Not got it out the van as I presume it's pretty heavy?
Will get take it down to men's shed and get the lads to take it off and look at it!
We can check the bearings etc. Then wiz round to the garage (which I presume has 3 phase to check the motor.)
Am I better to use a 3-1 converter or put a 1 phase motor? I have a gypton 1 hp motor btw.
Will get take it down to men's shed and get the lads to take it off and look at it!
We can check the bearings etc. Then wiz round to the garage (which I presume has 3 phase to check the motor.)
Am I better to use a 3-1 converter or put a 1 phase motor? I have a gypton 1 hp motor btw.
Attachments
Ttrees
Iroko loco!
Well done congrats!
What a machine to bring home for 60 quid, best deal I've seen anyone get.
Be careful that the trunnion doesn't break, should it be resting on the table.
I've seen quite a few machines with broken trunnions.
Should it be dual voltage, i.e should one be able see 240v on the motor nameplate,
then I'd stick a VFD on it myself, get something rated for 3 hp motors should start at about 100 quid
should you decide to upgrade it, to, say a three horsepower motor.
that is... should single phase motors be substantially more expensive on fleabay.
Worth noting for instance, there's some Hammer N4400 saws with 4hp motors,
though I think that might be lessened a bit, well in the UK I think that might be so, but not checked.
I wouldn't be worried about the motor, and more worried about damaging something else checking it if brought straight out from the van.
at the very least checking it with the drive belt loosened, or not checked at all if the lower wheel
jacking shaft adjustment bolts look tampered with.
Which looking at closer, seem to be non existent from the back...is there something behind the wheel which does the same job?
I guess you're not expecting to be testing the presumably very old blade yet, on presumably very old and possibly perished tires.
Chances are the machine was neglected not for a motor issue, but likely because of the tires or bearing issues.
Give it a whiff I suppose, somewhere around the terminal shroud, get the vacuum out beforehand.
It's very nice to have a bandsaw running well, as they don't really work atall if not.
Good luck, and hoping you can update us with a nice gloating post fairly shortly.
All the best
Tom
What a machine to bring home for 60 quid, best deal I've seen anyone get.
Be careful that the trunnion doesn't break, should it be resting on the table.
I've seen quite a few machines with broken trunnions.
Should it be dual voltage, i.e should one be able see 240v on the motor nameplate,
then I'd stick a VFD on it myself, get something rated for 3 hp motors should start at about 100 quid
should you decide to upgrade it, to, say a three horsepower motor.
that is... should single phase motors be substantially more expensive on fleabay.
Worth noting for instance, there's some Hammer N4400 saws with 4hp motors,
though I think that might be lessened a bit, well in the UK I think that might be so, but not checked.
I wouldn't be worried about the motor, and more worried about damaging something else checking it if brought straight out from the van.
at the very least checking it with the drive belt loosened, or not checked at all if the lower wheel
jacking shaft adjustment bolts look tampered with.
Which looking at closer, seem to be non existent from the back...is there something behind the wheel which does the same job?
I guess you're not expecting to be testing the presumably very old blade yet, on presumably very old and possibly perished tires.
Chances are the machine was neglected not for a motor issue, but likely because of the tires or bearing issues.
Give it a whiff I suppose, somewhere around the terminal shroud, get the vacuum out beforehand.
It's very nice to have a bandsaw running well, as they don't really work atall if not.
Good luck, and hoping you can update us with a nice gloating post fairly shortly.
All the best
Tom
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Ttrees
Iroko loco!
Have a read of Myfordman's (Bob's) post which has a link to the induction motor document.
It's the best you will find on the subject/solutions, as far as I've seen.
It will give you a rundown of your options, and explain what you need to do, should you wish to
keep that original dual voltage motor on the machine, or not.
Your query might depend on your supply, 3 phase, or single phase,
if the latter.. then 16a sockets, or 13a household plug?
Or indeed what work you might have planned for the machine.
Resawing long lengths at full capacity, and whether thats just occasionally, or work like that all day long.
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/power-options-for-a-new-bandsaw.143234/#post-1670224
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Jameshow
Established Member
Given it a bit of a clean up and dressed the table with W+S.
Wheels run smoothly with no play I bearings. (Better than my bike tbh!)
Have a sparky coming to wire in the extension lights / sockets so will get him to look at converting to 240v he does the electrics for a local woodworking business so I'm sure he'll be up to it.
Wheels run smoothly with no play I bearings. (Better than my bike tbh!)
Have a sparky coming to wire in the extension lights / sockets so will get him to look at converting to 240v he does the electrics for a local woodworking business so I'm sure he'll be up to it.
Jameshow
Established Member
Tom thanks for this post do you have access to the multico? If so how does the fence bar attach to the table? I have found three threads under the table?
Ttrees
Iroko loco!
Cleaned up well didn't it, it would be a good idea to have to read Bob's induction motor treatise, where you can run through all of your options to get it running on 240v.
That is...
unless yer man's got a selection of flange mounted single phase motors and a pulley to suit,
and patience to wait for you to make up yer mind on wot u want, i.e going with 2 or 3 hp?
braking function if necessary in your shop, have you got 16a socket, yada yada...
FWIW, The in house sparkey where I bought my TS from, seemingly wasn't familiar with VFD's/inverters atall,
and some baffled looks were present when I left the red plug up on a shelf.
Love seeing an old machine getting another chance again.
Cheers for pictures.
Tom
That is...
unless yer man's got a selection of flange mounted single phase motors and a pulley to suit,
and patience to wait for you to make up yer mind on wot u want, i.e going with 2 or 3 hp?
braking function if necessary in your shop, have you got 16a socket, yada yada...
FWIW, The in house sparkey where I bought my TS from, seemingly wasn't familiar with VFD's/inverters atall,
and some baffled looks were present when I left the red plug up on a shelf.
Love seeing an old machine getting another chance again.
Cheers for pictures.
Tom
