How to make polish from beeswax

[ED65]

I want to trial some home-made finish

Can I ask what for? I'm actually not a big fan of oil+wax finishes myself because they're sort of the worst of both. For furniture I think it's much preferable to oil, then wax, if you want to use the two things.

The carnauba is obviously less marking, is it actually harder

Much much harder yes, that's why it gives a finish much less prone to marking.

And why beeswax at all.

Good question. Traditionalists prefer it, but if it's not doing anything particularly useful I wouldn't bother myself.

Ask yourself the same question about the tung oil, why that specifically rather than raw linseed oil, or walnut oil, or boiled linseed? For indoor use tung oil isn't doing anything useful.

And yes you can add turpentine, in fact I'm sure you'd want to as most oil+wax blends IME are not easy to apply evenly! You can use white spirit too by the way, does the same job. Pick the solvent based on what you like the smell of most, I know for me that would be turpentine rather than white spirit but some people apparently find the smell of turps objectionable.

 

[Nelsun]

Ask yourself the same question about the tung oil, why that specifically rather than raw linseed oil, or walnut oil, or boiled linseed? For indoor use tung oil isn't doing anything useful.

I went with tung oil for the colour more than anything but that's purely subjective. The added moisture resistance (as I understand it has over BLO) was also a reason as we're right next to the sea and our main living space is open plan so steam from the kitchen isn't uncommon.

 

[woodfarmer]

A lot more feedback than I was expecting. thanks guys.

 

[condeesteso]

Thanks all, and ED - the answers to most points are kind of the same - I have an inquisitive mind
I use linseeds a lot (BLO mainly) elsewhere but I too prefer tung when finishing - I find the viscosity of the stuff I have lower (I do thin blo), and it seems to me it hardens a little quicker and more fully, also it is a tads less brown. I know a lot of this depends on which supplier etc, I tend to be using Morrells stuff mainly.
As for why oil/wax, as I say I am interested. I will mix up some pure Carnauba wax/turps while I'm at it as that will be worth a look.
And my nose prefers turps, but I use ws in volume with the BLO. For this I shall use turpentine and I expect I'll be thinning the oil-wax mix as I do like to get finishes on thin - I feel as if it is good to get the first coat in (scrub, rub etc) then build as desired if at all.

 

[ED65]

The added moisture resistance (as I understand it has over BLO) was also a reason

This is often given as a reason to prefer it over linseed but it's my understanding you only get that when it's used the way it was used historically by the Chinese. Nobody applies it that way on their indoor items, at least not that I've seen

we're right next to the sea and our main living space is open plan so steam from the kitchen isn't uncommon.

Its greater water-resistance is against liquid water, not water vapour.

Unfortunately only a film finish adds significant protection from water vapour going into and out of the wood.

 

[ED65]

Thanks all, and ED - the answers to most points are kind of the same - I have an inquisitive mind

Fair dinkum as they say on Neighbours. I'm the same, would prefer to try something firsthand than go only on what I've read. This is how I discovered I'm not a fan of oil+wax finishes, except for tool handles (gives a wonderful grip when applied to bare wood).

I use linseeds a lot (BLO mainly) elsewhere but I too prefer tung when finishing - I find the viscosity of the stuff I have lower (I do thin blo), and it seems to me it hardens a little quicker and more fully

That's a good illustration of how much it varies, most versions of pure tung oil cure more slowly than BLO. Much faster than raw linseed though.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

"As for why oil/wax, as I say I am interested. I will mix up some pure Carnauba wax/turps while I'm at it as that will be worth a look."
You'll need a glue kettle/ bain marie or similar - cold turps won't dissolve carnauba.

 

[Nelsun]

The added moisture resistance (as I understand it has over BLO) was also a reason

This is often given as a reason to prefer it over linseed but it's my understanding you only get that when it's used the way it was used historically by the Chinese. Nobody applies it that way on their indoor items, at least not that I've seen

we're right next to the sea and our main living space is open plan so steam from the kitchen isn't uncommon.

Its greater water-resistance is against liquid water, not water vapour.

Unfortunately only a film finish adds significant protection from water vapour going into and out of the wood.

Thanks for explaining all that. At least I like the colour!

You mention the Chinese method. Is that applying numerous thin layers over a thinned couple of layers to start off? I did that for an oak worktop with one coat every night for a week followed by once a week for a month and now whenever I feel like it. It's a lovely finish but I went with Osmo after enduring all that.

 

[condeesteso]

I know that Phil

 

[ED65]

You mention the Chinese method. Is that applying numerous thin layers over a thinned couple of layers to start off?

From what I've seen in the flesh, it's applied very heavily (enough to build a surface film) but how exactly it's done you can't tell obviously. From what I've read it was slathered on and pretty much left to cure, but I don't know if that's gospel.