How do YOU use cellulose sanding sealer?

[selectortone]

I was taught, both at guitar-building school and by my wood turning teacher, that sanding sealer is applied before final sanding, to seal and raise the grain. It is then virtually all sanded away apart from what is left in the pores, its purpose being to enable a smoother surface through sanding than would be achieved by sanding bare wood.

I sometimes see posts here where people appear to apply it after sanding - like a finish. So what is the concesus? How do you guys use it?

 

[paulrockliffe]

I've used it as a finish and also waxed over it and had good results with both. I did think the name suggested I wasn't using it 'correctly' though.

 

[SVB]

I use it before the final grit of abrasive so typically 120, 180, 240, 320, SS, 400 / grey mesh & then finish from there.

S

 

[eddieperkins]

Usually after the sanding prior to applying the finish. However it can be useful to firm up 'punky' spalted wood during turning and also before using glue or filling voids or cracks to prevent the glue staining the wood.

I don't think there are any firm rules really, whatever works is good.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

I'm almost identical in use to Simon ie through the grits and then penultimate grit for the sealer so you then denib with the last grit.

I also (if the wood needs it) use 2 grits of nyweb for the last 2 grits after the sandpaper and sometimes I'll SS the work at the very end and then just denib with the last nyweb grit (the yellow one). I might also just burnish with wood shavings if it's a very tight grained wood and not bother to denib at all. I always denib with either Ash or Oak.

I also flood punky grain with SS if spalted etc and do that early in the project. For projects that don't require much shine but want protecting I'll use SS as the final finish because it makes the grain pop and leaves it protected to some extent. But in all cases I'll denib based on a finger test ie if it's been roughed up by the SS then I'll denib either the same as Simon or with Nyweb or shavings.

Worth adding that my goto finish is cellulose SS + a paste wax (I use Chestnut MC wax). That combo is the best compromise I've found between very nice finish and very quick to deliver plus pretty durable.

 

[woodpig]

I add CSS after sanding then give it a final rub down with 0000 wire wool or a pad once it's dry. Final finish is Renwax.

As a point if interest I think the CSS sold at the club is a 50/50 mix isn't it?

 

[selectortone]

As a point if interest I think the CSS sold at the club is a 50/50 mix isn't it?

Not sure Vic, I don't use it. I use Mylands CSS diluted approx 75/25 with cellulose thinners.

Thanks for the replies guys, keep 'em coming!

 

[andersonec]

I apply sealer after final sanding and then again before Briwax, not because I was taught but that was how it developed, I always found the wood to be a bit rough to the touch after applying the sealer so gave it a quick rub with my final sanding sheet and it went back to feeling nice and smooth ready for the wax, there wasn't enough sanding to remove the sealer, just enough to bring it back to smooth.

Andy

 

[Terry Smart]

Here's how Cellulose Sanding Sealer is designed to be used (other ideas persist).

Sand the timber to whatever you prefer as a final preparation (anything upwards of 320 grit is fine)
Apply a coat of sealer (and only one coat), undiluted, allow to dry.
Lightly denib using the same abrasive that you last used on the timber.

The surface will feel slightly rough to the touch, that's the sanding agent in the sealer. This is designed to be removed easily and acts as a lubricant for the sanding process. That's all you need to remove, not to sand back to bare wood (otherwise what was the point?)
Sanding sealer seals the wood and binds the loose fibres together, giving a better base for finishing. It should leave a coating on the surface.