Jed Clampett
Member
I like the dents and knocks - it gives it some character 
Restoring 18C longcase clock case
- Thread starter rowan.bradley
- Start date
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johnny
Established Member
I worked for a Specialist Antique Clock restorer back in the 70s he only used an authentic fish glue which was constantly being 'cooked' in a heated tub.........it stunk the house out. He bought cheap period pieces of antique furniture from Auction houses to piece in pieces of period wood. When he had finished you could not see any of the work that he had done it all looked 17th and 18th Century patina. He said that he had numerous long case clocks in Museums that he had restored .
Don't sand it down for heavens sake you'll make it completely worthless. Nobody would want to buy a antique long case clock that looked like new . Conservation rather than renovation is the way to go.
https://chrismossclocks.co.uk/
Don't sand it down for heavens sake you'll make it completely worthless. Nobody would want to buy a antique long case clock that looked like new . Conservation rather than renovation is the way to go.
https://chrismossclocks.co.uk/
Last edited:
Sorry to have started late in your task but only just joined
Having been an antique furniture restorer since 1977 (now I am the antique), when I started a one year professional course at West Dean College (same estate as the location of the repair shop). I can give you tips. I agree with all who say absolutely no sanding. The cleaner of choice for me is a concoction of one part pure Linseed Oil (not boiled) one part pure turpentime and a half measure of methylated spirits. I always use an old washing up liquid bottle to apply potion to a cloth(shake vigorously to keep it mixed, the meths will float to the top). This potion will lift dirt and grime without removing finish (which would be sacrilege). I would not use pva glue at all, it is not reversible whereas hide (Scotch) glue is (with warm water. I use a hyperdermic to inject under veneers or inlays.(veterinary type are best as they are larger). I agree too that dents are part of its history but if a particularly offensive one is come across then use a small knife to scrape the finish off then apply lukewarm water into the depression and apply heat from a soldering iron to the water, this steams the water swelling the fibres. Have a try with a bit of scrap veneered timber, strike it with a hammer and follow those instructions! Unfortunately all my old photos are stored away and one longcase clock was found floating in a basement after a flood, rather more drastic than yours but shows what can be done. One last thing carryout all repairs first as it is dusting antique furniture that pulls off loose pieces. Also take Utube videos with a pinch of salt, I would take issue with many of their restorations. I have loads of books on the subject collected over the years as you are never too old to learn another new method. I will see about pulling them out and provide a list.
Having been an antique furniture restorer since 1977 (now I am the antique), when I started a one year professional course at West Dean College (same estate as the location of the repair shop). I can give you tips. I agree with all who say absolutely no sanding. The cleaner of choice for me is a concoction of one part pure Linseed Oil (not boiled) one part pure turpentime and a half measure of methylated spirits. I always use an old washing up liquid bottle to apply potion to a cloth(shake vigorously to keep it mixed, the meths will float to the top). This potion will lift dirt and grime without removing finish (which would be sacrilege). I would not use pva glue at all, it is not reversible whereas hide (Scotch) glue is (with warm water. I use a hyperdermic to inject under veneers or inlays.(veterinary type are best as they are larger). I agree too that dents are part of its history but if a particularly offensive one is come across then use a small knife to scrape the finish off then apply lukewarm water into the depression and apply heat from a soldering iron to the water, this steams the water swelling the fibres. Have a try with a bit of scrap veneered timber, strike it with a hammer and follow those instructions! Unfortunately all my old photos are stored away and one longcase clock was found floating in a basement after a flood, rather more drastic than yours but shows what can be done. One last thing carryout all repairs first as it is dusting antique furniture that pulls off loose pieces. Also take Utube videos with a pinch of salt, I would take issue with many of their restorations. I have loads of books on the subject collected over the years as you are never too old to learn another new method. I will see about pulling them out and provide a list.
