How do you clean yours ?

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Bigbud78

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I want to clean up the Cub whilst its mobile before I bolt it down, its really just the bed and the MT looks a little grungy as well :( Was just going to use a bit of WD40 and some wirewool on the bed and use a bottle brush for the MT with some WD. Also the chucks need attention, any suggestions ? (Photos are from the ebay listing so not great)

lathe.JPG


Chuck.JPG
 
I use plastic scourers or webrax for cleaning and WD40 is probably as good as anything (not much use for anything else really ;-).

After it's clean I'd apply rennaisance wax or chestnut microcrystalline wax which you'll be wanting to buy anyway if you haven't already got any IMHO. Just the merest wipe on the MT but you could use it fairly liberally on the bed and buff up. Your banjo should be slick afterwards - don't forget to do the underside of the banjo and the tailstock.

HTH
Jon
 
For slight rust like that the Garryflex blocks are really good. They are abrasive mixed into a rubbery compound. You just rub, the compound wears away and fresh abrasive is exposed. Quick and not messy.
They are easily available from engineering suppliers like Proops, on eBay. Not to be confused with the cheap grit covered sponges sold for diy.
I suggest getting a coarse and a medium for your stuff.
 
Bodrighy":3fjtqcbg said:
chipmunk":3fjtqcbg said:
WD40 is probably as good as anything (not much use for anything else really ;-).

Jon

Really?

Interesting comment from the site in the link,


The uses of WD-40 described on this website were provided to WD-40 Company by end-users of the product, and do not constitute recommendations or suggestions for use of WD-40 by WD-40 Company. These uses have not been tested by WD-40 Company. Consumers should exercise common sense whenever using WD-40. Always follow the instructions and take heed of any warnings printed on the WD-40 packaging.


So not uses recommended by WD-40, I know of one of their "end users" who's use of their product lead him to a 20k bill
 
+1 for Garryflex. My method for years on all things cast iron or steel has been the green kitchen scourers and WD40. Guess what, it works. But it's slow, it's very messy and I'm not entirely wild about the smell of WD40 although as Pete said it is amazingly useful stuff and I wouldn't be without it.

But not long back I acquired a 2nd hand Woodfast (branded now by Record Power as the Maxi range in the UK) and this od beauty was made in Australia. Engineering superb, a venerable machine indeed but it had belonged to a deceased turner and had been stood in a damp garage for a year or so. Light surface rust on the beds, the banjo, toolrest, all the box of bits, faceplate, chucks etc....all had a nice little "bloom" though it hadn't gone as far as pitting.

I started with the scourer and WD and it was messy. Some bright spark mentioned Garryflex so I dutifully toddled off to Axy and bought all three grits. Gave them a bash and simply couldn't believe the difference. I would liken them in use to rubbing out pencil from school books. Its a simple rubbing action, directly on the rust. No lubricant. No solvent. No fuss. No mess. Just takes the rust straight off and leaves clean, scratch free steel. Like new in fact. Because the abrasive is built into a rubber binder they're flexible enough to do radiused bars or dips and corners etc and they're friable so once the abrasive is spent it just rubs off leaving a perfectly fresh cutting surface. The spent abrasive and rubber leaves little roles of rubber exactly as your old school rubber used to. Simply blow them into the hair of the kid sat in front of you and "Bob's yer Uncle" :)
 
Here's what I'm on about. Picture 3, the rusty toolrest shows the extent of the rusting. That was on everything until Garry got to work!
 

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I did read somewhere that WD was hygroscopic, and if you just wanted a lubricant or a protective coating it was better to use one of the other sprays. The WD is "water displacing" so I leave you to draw your own conclusions. I have read that it is recommended not to use it on electrics as it tends to cause intermittent faults (breaks in continuity).
 
when we were kids, you'd get rain water inside the suppressor cap on your Yam Fizzy and WD was the solution...precisely because it repelled any water in there. It made for brilliant electrical connection in the HT lead.
 
So did I. But I've have read this so many times in different places, and the advice has not just said it's not particularly good or anything like that, but a definite do not use as it causes intermittent faults. Presumably it works perfectly well in the short term. Come on, Myfordman where are you? I suppose it largely boils down to whether it's hygroscopic or not - I have read that it actually contains water. ACF 50 is far, far superior, although much more expensive.
 
I don't think we could spell "hygroscopic" when we were 16 Phil :)

It was just what everybody did to ensure you beat that dam pesky Suzuki AP50 when you were chinning it to try and squeeze 55 out of your moped :)

Yeah I know I know...you took the baffles out, filed the ports and your "sewing machine" did 70...course it did :)
 
Never had a Fizzy - my first was a 250cc Triumph. British garbage in its finest incarnation. 3500 miles from new to scrap. Followed by a Kawasaki triple a few years later. Brilliant machine.
 
Random Orbital Bob":1kstnc2j said:
I don't think we could spell "hygroscopic" when we were 16 Phil :)

It was just what everybody did to ensure you beat that dam pesky Suzuki AP50 when you were chinning it to try and squeeze 55 out of your moped :)

Yeah I know I know...you took the baffles out, filed the ports and your "sewing machine" did 70...course it did :)

Haha, I never got beat by one of them when riding my AP50 Rob, mind you it was sans baffles, drop handlebars and I was a bit more streamlined back then :lol:

Cheers, Paul
 

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