How can I improve the cut ?

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KraftyKev

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Hi,
Most cuts on the Table saw end up like these 2, Any advise how to erradicate the marks ?
Its a cheap Einhell TC-TS 2025/2 U with the standard blade, I wonder if more teeth may help ?

20221205-182544.jpg

20221205-182548.jpg
 
Yes more (and sharp) teeth.
Also good solid fences etc to avoid vibrations, perhaps hold-downs and feather-boards
 
A sharp high quality blade is the first step which means all the teeth should be rotating in the same plane. Fairly easy to check that there is no wobble in the saw blade, which could be caused by the blade, the spindle or the spindle flange or something on the flange
More teeth doesnt always help as the gullets fill up resulting in problems cutting and potential scorching. I cant tell from the picture but if I was ripping 2 inch softwood, I would probably use a 12 inch 24 or 28 tooth blade
 
Yes a decent sharp blade is what makes any saw work and a solid fence.
Looking at the cut I see saw marks from both directions so that will complicate things. There are a whole lot of things that can affect the cut. A steady feed rate so no stop start and let the saw cut. Dont force it. The face against the fence needs to be strait or the wood does not go strait by the blade. The face on the table needs to be flatish so if it rocks on the table that affects the cut. The saw itself may also need a proper setup. At its most basic that is with the blade parallel to the table slot and the fence parallel to the blade. Found this clip so it may be of help.
Table Saw Blade Adjustments - Einhell 2025 1U Calibration [Episode 62 9 Mar 2018] - YouTube
Regards
John
 
I've said it before even new blades can need sharpening........
here it's 7 euro's up to 10"and over 10" 9euros.....inc a 305x90 tooth chop saw blade.....

had good luck with Lidils blades...bought for a rough job....ie... use em for a day and throw away.....
second blade is still in its box......
I found that fancy make blades are not worth the extra money.....Hitachi, Bosch even DeWalt work just fine.....
just keep em sharp....the diff is amazing....
If I start a big'ish job I get the blades I will be using sharpend.......
hardest part is finding a firm that can do a decent job of ur blades......
 
Run a dial indicator on each side tips of the blade. Only one needs to be off line to the set on that side to put a score on the finished wood. Also, does anyone balance wheels to limit vibration? Learnt this from doctoring old steel blades.
 
I'd get a decent blade a 24t for ripping and a 48 for crosscut ( if you use a sled ) and for laminates etc.

Ultimately a tablesaw cut is not the finished face, so i probably wouldnt loose too much sleep over it
 
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