Tip: Toolstation sell Flag brand paint. After a lot of mucking about I think that it's better than Hammerite.
They do
a smooth green that's close to (slightly darker than) the Kity colour. Chemical strip; sand back/repair any really manky bits (flash rust is OK - actually acts as a key to the paint); do the whole panel flat if possible (to avoid sags, which are a right PITA with metal paints); really, really wait weeks before re-coating (they mean that bit!).
Solvent is Xylene for clean up afterwards (Toolstation again). TBH, I usually use disposable brushes for metal paint these days, but brushes can clean up OK - it's just the fumes! Jam-jars stay in the (outside) back porch - its also really flammable stuff.
Flag's water-based "
rust converter" is pretty good but can't be used underneath water-based paints (just in case you were tempted!). Sister-in-law used to sell base chemistry to Flag and reckons they're good (well she would), but honestly I agree.
Hammerite used to say their paint didn't need a rust converter. I think that's true if you're using it in warm and dry (i.e. arid) conditions, but the bottom of that cabinet looks as though it's been in a flood for a month.
I assume you know the trick of drilling paintbrushes just below where the handle joins the head: insert a bit of heavy wire, and they'll hang in a jam jar with the bristles well off the bottom, so the paint falls off by gravity and the brush gets reasonably clean. I don't recommend wrapping in a plastic bag. It works for water- and oil-based paints, but Xylene escapes and the brush hardens off anyway.
Nice saw mind. Not saying I'm jealous. Me? Never. Not a bit... :mrgreen:
E.
PS: I think Kity used an evostik-type of contact adhesive to stick the logo strips on. Xylene will dissolve it, but it will also dissolve the logos - lift the edge of the logo strip v. gently with a penknife and let some run in under by capillary action, wait a short while and it ought to loosen off.
