Help me identify this hand tool?

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carpenteire2009

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Can anyone help me identify this vintage hand tool; is it a plugging chisel as used by bricklayers? The working edges of the tool are not sharp or bevelled in any way so I am unsure. Any help would be appreciated.
 

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It's an Engineer's cold chisel.
Photobucket doesn't want to let me upload a fresh picture but if you look on page 142 of the 1938 Marples catalogue they are listed in lengths from 4to 12 inches, with a diamond point, a half-round point or cross-cut.
The size at the point ranged from 1/8" to 7/16".
 
Indeed! Exactly what sort of metal cutting needs a round-nosed chisel is a question for another day!
 
AndyT":3ersos6y said:
Indeed! Exactly what sort of metal cutting needs a round-nosed chisel is a question for another day!

(puts hand in air) Ooh, Sir, I know Sir!

BugBear
 
bugbear":35yytqd1 said:
AndyT":35yytqd1 said:
Indeed! Exactly what sort of metal cutting needs a round-nosed chisel is a question for another day!

(puts hand in air) Ooh, Sir, I know Sir!

BugBear

Well as long as it doesn't need a collectible honing guide, or any arguments about what shape of tip is sharpest, I would be interested to know...
 
They are really good for staking nuts used on car hub nuts or anywhere that there is a stake nut. I use mine all the time.

Matt
 
Without doubt you had it right in the original question. It is a Plugging chisel, used long before such modern stuff as rawlplugs etc.
It is narrow at the business end to root out mortar from between bricks.

Æ
 
It's a fitter's crosscut chisel. Properly sharpened, the business end isn't rounded, but has two ground facets at about 60-75 degrees to each other.

Back in the good old days when men were men, such tools were used for cutting slots and keyways, and in the first operation of chipping and filing a flat face on a casting. The rough casting was marked out, then grooves cut parallel to each other with the crosscut chisel, about 1/4" or so apart, to a depth very close to the marked lines. Similar grooves were then cut at 90 degrees to the first set, leaving lots of little squares upstanding. The little squares were chipped off with a straight cold chisel, and the surface left worked down to the marked line with a rough file, then a ******* file, then a second cut and finally a smooth file. This procedure was used when a casting was too large for available machine tools, or when the face to be worked could not be accessed for machining, or when machine tools were not available. It's the sort of skilled work that's common when labour is cheap, but falls out of use as technology advances and wages improve.

The same procedure can be used on mild steel, but you have to be pretty damned determined. Or desperate. Don't ask how I know that.
 
Here's the detail I failed to load yesterday:

0B63F9FF-FEF1-4C47-93AD-54F084DDE6C6-877-00000288E76E53DE_zpsafaa30d8.jpg


Great video link Andy!
 
AndyT":fdi5qxwy said:
bugbear":fdi5qxwy said:
AndyT":fdi5qxwy said:
Indeed! Exactly what sort of metal cutting needs a round-nosed chisel is a question for another day!

(puts hand in air) Ooh, Sir, I know Sir!

BugBear

Well as long as it doesn't need a collectible honing guide, or any arguments about what shape of tip is sharpest, I would be interested to know...

Cheshirechappie has said it all.

BugBear
 
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