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Hammer C3-31 problem

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RogerS

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I thicknessed one piece of wood this morning. Turned it off. Noticed that there still remained a buzzing sound coming from the P/T. Didn't think any more of it. Changed tables out of thicknesser mode, fitted the rip fence etc ...changed the selector switch to table saw but it wouldn't fire up. Checked limit switches...all fine.

Tried selector switch to P/T...buzzing sound again. Wouldn't fire up either. Three-phase supply from the rotary converter all good (power feed 3-phase works fine)...T'd off the Hammer feed. Gave Felder a call. Pity Jeremy left. Tech support was about as much use as a chocolate teapot. No idea on the buzzing sound (which I think is the key as that's 'new'). They suggested checking the internal wiring...looked for wiring diagram. Got back to machine and heard a faint click.

Thermal overload trip...thinks I. And indeed it is. Table saw works fine. P/T works fine but the buzzing is still there and I am sure that if I leave the machine on long enough then that thermal trip will go again. But why ? If the machine hasn't been turned on then why the buzzing. And just a hint of hot electric smell.
 

sunnybob

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Magnetic switch inside the starter box. Used to be known as a contactor.
I had to change many of those in my day.
 

RogerS

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sunnybob":14f9xujo said:
Magnetic switch inside the starter box. Used to be known as a contactor.
I had to change many of those in my day.
What makes you say that, Bob? The machine runs fine when I hit the Green on button.
 

Sideways

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I wonder if the NVR switch has been wired in wrongly. With some cheap designs, if you get a couple of the terminals cross wired, you can leave the coil more or less permanently energised even though they otherwise work correctly. This causes the coil to overheat and age.
I wouldn't expect this on a Hammer but the hot smell and buzzing even when off is a characteristic symptom and I'd want to eliminate the possibility.
 

RogerS

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Sideways":9rgfawbq said:
I wonder if the NVR switch has been wired in wrongly. With some cheap designs, if you get a couple of the terminals cross wired, you can leave the coil more or less permanently energised even though they otherwise work correctly. This causes the coil to overheat and age.
I wouldn't expect this on a Hammer but the hot smell and buzzing even when off is a characteristic symptom and I'd want to eliminate the possibility.
It's been working fine and so I don't think that's the answer TBH.
 

sunnybob

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RogerS":1urz8r6g said:
sunnybob":1urz8r6g said:
Magnetic switch inside the starter box. Used to be known as a contactor.
I had to change many of those in my day.
What makes you say that, Bob? The machine runs fine when I hit the Green on button.
The contactor is a coil, which when operated produces a strong (relatively) current which makes it an electromagnet. This magnet pulls an iron plate down smartly onto the coil. Connected to the iron plate are the contacts. When you turn it off, a spring returns it to the off position.
The coil on these sometimes start to hum, usually due to an earth fault, or just the coil wire insulation breaking down.

At the same time, the iron plate is held in a slide to stop it falling off to one side. Sometimes this plastic slide breaks up, allowing the iron plate to move sideways, again causing a vibration hum. Its common (sorry, it WAS common on older switches, not so much on modern ones) for the iron plate to swivel sideways and jam either on, or off, regardless of current applied.
For a stupid unknown reason, these switches are usually mounted vertically, when to ensure long trouble free life they would be much better off horizontal.

So, if you called me out to fix your machine, I would make sure I had another magnetic switch on the van before I arrived, and I would check that first above all else, because you have a strong HUUUMMM, you heard a loud click (the iron bar falling back into place, but the machine still works, wheras if the machine didnt work, I would look to the motor coils.

This is a long distance diagnosis, I aint guranteein nuffink. :shock: :shock: :lol:
 

Lons

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sunnybob":egd56dfc said:
That was option B :lol: 8)
I was going to say that as well Bob but somehow it came out as being the funny shaped thing in the electrickery box being stuffed. Maybe it's 'cos I know nuffink about electrickery when it has more than 3 wires. :lol:
 

Trevanion

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Wait, wait, wait...

DC brakes? :|

Doesn't everyone just shove a piece of wood into the cutter block or up against their saw plate to stop the sharp thing from spinning? :-k

:lol: :wink:
 

RogerS

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doctor Bob":jysqtkem said:
RogerS":jysqtkem said:
Thanks to all. But the First Prize goes to 9fingers. It's the DC braking module.
I've had a few go, they are a bit pricey.
You have to buy the whole box from Felder. £420 + carriage from Austria + VAT. So it's not going to happen. It's just me in the workshop. I can wait for the sharp spinny things to stop.

However, I do have call out to the manufacturers of said brake module. Klibo. Their website lists it for 50 Euro but when you try to order, you get a 404 error.
 

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