glue troubles, so what shall I use instead.

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devonwoody

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Working on my latest box as been very upsetting.

To start with I have used hand cut dovetails on 8mm thick black walnut and not having cut any of these joints for over 18 months joints are a little scrappy, and the grain of the walnut is very course and the timber has chips hanging about.

Two parts of the project (a lip of contrasting sycamore under the lid section and corner leg brackets to cover the scruffy dovetails) PVA white glue was used. However both occassions there has been slippage whilst leaving glue to set.

So what glue or brand is best to avoid this problem?
 
DW, unless you use a contact or possibly hide glue, you may well get slippage if you don't clamp the project up properly

I think clamping may be your problem here, not glue


For info, I use Titebond 3 for everything and do not experience slippage that I am aware of
 
As Tony said.
I believe Titebond sell a hide glue and if you do overtighten and get slippage they do a dark glue which can help to hide sins .

Dom
 
Thanks above.

Posting picture of box in projects later today which has now been completed, but as usual for me does not have a finish applied.
 
I tend to use titebond II which seems to grab more than white glue. If the item is too small to clamp try a spot or two of mitre fast to hold it while the other glue sets.

Jason
 
jasonB":3t1ee77e said:
I tend to use titebond II which seems to grab more than white glue. If the item is too small to clamp try a spot or two of mitre fast to hold it while the other glue sets.

Jason

Thanks, they were small items, what is mitre fast?
 
devonwoody":3mgq36n8 said:
(10 seconds setting could be a problem at my age, I've slowed down these days.)
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Glue on one piece activator on the other, 10 seconds is not the open time, the clock only starts ticking when the two pieces are pressed together :)


Andy
 
If you don't want to get a bottle just use superglue or any cyanoacrylate, its basically the same thing. The moisture in the PVA or what have you will set it off so you can do without the spray.

I usually find the top gets stuck before I use a full bottle, it will start to go thick before it sets solid in the bottle.

Jason
 
Jason would you explain further.

I read the above, use superglue and put some pva on the other surface to get a quick set?
 
Mitre fast is aimed at the kitchen/bedroom fitting trade where sticking mitred cornice etc that is usually made from MDF is required. As all cyanoacrylates need moisture to trigger the setting action a spray is used, however the moisture from any other waterbased glue will have a similar effect.

There are two ways you could have done it on your box, the best would have been to apply PVA to most of the surface and just leave a couple of places clear for a drop of CA then just put the corners/strips into place and rub* the joint until you feel it grab. The other method is more if its not going to show, glue with PVA, rub joint then apply a drop of CA at a corner, as its very liquid it will wick into the joint and set.

Then again you could just have used CA glue on one surface an a wipe with a damp cloth on the other, just watch those fingers :wink: Its amazing how well CA glue works on wood just a few drops will hold work to a glue block for turning.

* By rubbing I mean sliding the two glued surfaces against one another until you feel them start to grab, if you have too much PVA they will just keep sliding about.

Jason
 
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