getting hold of industrial strength ammonia

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thetyreman

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does anyone here have a supplier that is UK based? I want to build an outdoor fuming tent and ideally want to get hold of industrial grade ammonia, tried contacting a couple of suppliers via email and have had no response, I probably won't need much, it's to fume some pear, and white oak wood, any help would be appeciated, cheers, Ben.
 
janitorial supply. Wide range here from <10% to over 25% sold by commercial janitorial supply places, but not restricted for sale to the public.
 
does anyone here have a supplier that is UK based? I want to build an outdoor fuming tent and ideally want to get hold of industrial grade ammonia, tried contacting a couple of suppliers via email and have had no response, I probably won't need much, it's to fume some pear, and white oak wood, any help would be appeciated, cheers, Ben.
Type .880 ammonia into a search engine.

I came up with this link with my search. No idea if it's any use to you. .880 ammonia is the strongest you can get. You might also try any local printers you know of. They used to use ammonia, I believe, for some processes, and may still do so, and if so they might be able to point you in the right direction, or perhaps sell you a bit. Slainte.
 
Type .880 ammonia into a search engine.

I came up with this link with my search. No idea if it's any use to you. .880 ammonia is the strongest you can get. You might also try any local printers you know of. They used to use ammonia, I believe, for some processes, and may still do so, and if so they might be able to point you in the right direction, or perhaps sell you a bit. Slainte.

thankyou that looks perfect, and not too expensive either.
 
Try ' APC Pure', that's where I got my last lot for fuming oak They claim now to do 'letter box friendly' chemicals. Whatever that means 🤔
 
Your local pharmacy can I expect order it for you. Or at least I could as a lad via my dad's ordering system in our pharmacy when I used to make NI3.

F.
 
thankyou that looks perfect, and not too expensive either.
If you've a large item to fume, rather than build a tent it can be economically viable to hire a Luton van for a few days. Roll up the back shutter, chuck the item to be fumed in and add saucers of ammonia and close the door. Leave for the appropriate time, empty the furniture and ammonia out and return the van. An alternative to the van could be a similar enclosed box trailer, assuming you have also have a vehicle with a tow bar. I've used both a van and a trailer in the past for fuming. Slainte.
 
Flippin' terrorism laws made loads of useful chemicals unavailable to the public. I use(d) concentrated acids, high-strength peroxide and all sorts of powerful oxidisers for some of my microscopy work (cleaning diatoms and micro-fossil material for mounting). Well, I used to. All are restricted for buying by Joe Public now. Even simple possession is illegal (which shot my plans to buy dilute and process to stronger - honest, it did). I'm pretty sure high-strength ammonia is on the list - being a key ingredient in many things that go bang.

On the bright side, most of the useful chems (to me) can still be purchased by pretty much any limited company, albeit with occasional "security questions" and some remaining restrictions on the super-nasty stuff.

It helps to have a mate with a limited company and similar interests. Not sayin' I do though, you understand... :)
 
hi, with ammonia what's the best way to dispose of it once you've used it up? also what about working the wood? I presume you can just handplane it as normal or will that release toxic fumes?
 
hi, with ammonia what's the best way to dispose of it once you've used it up? also what about working the wood? I presume you can just handplane it as normal or will that release toxic fumes?
i disposed of what was left of mine by putting it on the compost-heap. It is pretty benign watered down, after all it's what's given off in the break-down of urine.

Fuming is normally carried out on finished pieces of work. And as with any other form of staining the effect only goes so deep, so ,if you start planing you will soon cut through to the layers beneath. Fuming can penetrates slightly further, which gives you some leeway when sanding for finishing. But best to use fuming as part of the finishing process
 
I'm currently fuming some pear wood, it's been over 48 hours now, should I replace the ammonia every few days or just leave it? p.s it's working well.
 

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