Getting belt pulley wheel off a Sealey pillar drill??

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woden

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That subject title is a bit of a mouthful, and I've probably described the thing incorrectly, but I'm having difficulty stripping down the pillar drill I recently purchased.

It's a 1986 Sealey GDM200F floor standing pillar drill that I picked up for 100 quid. I only spotted it sitting there in an empty workshop by chance as I was going to the mechanic's garage next door. Inquired, and the girl said that the firm - double glazing - were buying their windows in now instead of putting them together and so were getting rid of their machinery. She thought it might be for sale and sure enough the boss when contacted sold it to me. He said it had only ever been lightly used on PVC frames but I still probably paid too much for it at 100. Cost £200 in 1986 but then machinery has come down a lot in price since then.

It did come with a 6" cross vice and a few bits which was a bonus.

Anyway, while it seems to work fine - and is nice and quiet - it seems to have spent most of its life in top gear with the result that the mechanisms for changing speed/gear had become all gunked up. The other thing is that the bolt that controls the drilling depth isn't tightening properly. This all means that I wanted to get inside the head bit.

I took the head off, removed the motor and loosened up and removed the swinging middle pulley. Then I unscrewed the nut holding down the front aluminium pulley and wam-bang I've run into a brick wall. The front pulley will neither lift (or if it's threaded) screw off. Asked my Dad and he said there's a device - forget the name - that pulls such a wheel off. But what if the wheel is threaded on the inside? Pulling it up with force could strip the thread. I've tried squirting in loads of WD40 but it hasn't loosened so could the whole thing be somehow seized?

Maybe there's a key in the shaft locking the pulley in place. But I can't see how you could remove this without the contradiction of first unscrewing the wheel. Hmm... can anyone give me advice?
 
I don't know much about pillar drills (I've only got a cheapie Clark press myself) but this I do know: your dad is right, there is a special tool for removing pulleys- its called a hub puller and any mechanic should have a set.
 
woden, if the pulley was held on, presumably on a hollow drive shaft, with a nut then there should be a key slot in the pulley bore to stop it rotating about the shaft, it may be that if it has stood for some time in damp conditions that there has been a corrosion reaction between the aluminium and the steel shaft causing them to bond.

Be very careful about applying undue force with a bearing puller or the like as the aluminium may well be brittle.

If you can determine that it should just pull off the shaft and key then try gently heating it with a butane/propane torch to see if the greater expansion of the aluminium will release it.

You could try http://www.pvrdirect.co.uk/to see if they have a manual for the machine.


EDIT: can you post us a picture of the pulley from above and its immediate area?
 
You would never have a keyway on the shaft if the pulley is threaded, as you rightly say it would be impossible to remove (or install in all likelthood). If there is a keyway (it should be clearly visible when looking at the bore in the pully) you'll need a gear puller something like this[. Applying heat to the pulley with a hot air gun or blowtorch (easy does it) should help free things up as well.
FWIW I think it's highly unlikely to be threaded even if there's no visible keyway.
Hope this helps.
 
Hi Woden

It is almost certainly a woodruff key inside the pulley. In which case there will not be anything to see. Use a sprocket puller and heat the pulley first and it should pull off easily enough.

All the best

John
 
Just a thought.
if the pulley wheel is threaded ( which is doubtful unless it is steel ) then it may well be a left handed thread,
 
Have you sorted it now :?:

On my Clarke drill press (Same as Carpentiere) there is just a simple grub screw in the side of the pulley which is undone with an Allen key and the pulley comes off easily.

Doesn't mean the Sealey is the same 'tho :eek:
 
Quite often there are two grub screws, one on top of the other - the first one is there to tighten down on the shaft, the second is there to stop the first one backing of - make sure you have removed both before you use the hub puller!

Regards

Gary
 
The pulley that drives the quill shaft is often just held on by a nut and a taper (no keyway). If so, warm it up and pull it off.
 
Thanks for all the advice, guys.

CHJ":1b6l2jup said:
Well spotted there mickster for the source, but I think that Wodens model is the fixed pulley version

http://www.mgspowerquip.co.uk/download/ ... M200FX.pdf

Yeah, that parts diagram looks more like mine than the other one. However, if you look at #77 on that list - the pulley insert - it doesn't say whether there's a key or something locking it in place as in the diagram for the GDM200F/VS. But as someone else said, the pulley will only likely be threaded if it's steel. So, as this one is aluminium will I be safe enough to pull upwards after heating it?

There don't appear to be any grub screws in this one.

I only sort of half need to get inside the head now as the thing I was trying to remove - the leaver and mechanism for moving the motor - I've managed to get out another way. However, that leaves the spindle. I want to take this out and strip it down to give it a good clean and greasing.

The strange thing is that when I first removed the handle and feed shaft I was able to pull the spindle down and out without needing to get inside the head. Now, however, I can only pull the spindle down but it won't come out. If I could just figure out how I managed to remove the spindle the first time around I really wouldn't need to get inside the head/body at all.
 
Now we have the part diagram, perhaps referring to the numbers might help.

If you have removed 22 and there is nothing at the top of 89 to stop it passing through 77, then the spindle assy or quill to give it the correct name - part 87 should be able to be removed.
It is possible that the key (not shown) that runs in the groove (keyway) of 87 which stop the quill from rotating has jammed in some way and giving the effect you now have. I dont think that removing the pulley is going to help with removing the quill.

The depth stop malfunction which I think was your original problem is effected by tightening 23 onto 22 by means of 29. so I can't help wondering why you are wanting to take the quill out?

Hope this helps - if only a bit!!

More than happy to offer more help if I can understand where you are trying to get to & why.

Edit - just re-read the thread. The only bit of the spindle that might benefit from lubriction/cleaning are the splines that provide the drive between 77 and 89. The quill bearings will be sealed for life witht eh correct amout an grade of grease. If the seales have failed on the bearings then dirt will have got in and damage done. I doubt this is the case because you say that it runs quietly.
Bob
 

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