For my next question...chucks

[AJB Temple]

The reason I got the lathe (second hand immaculate Record CL1, with extra turning rest and a few other bits) was to turn spindles for furniture work, and I am fine with that. However, I would like to have a go at turning bowls, as I already have a lot of free blanks that just need a bit of action on my bandsaw before they are ready for use. However I have no chuck.

Having had a search here, and watched quite a lot of you tube videos (e.g. Richard Raffan's [to me] excellent videos on basic bowl turning) I have ended up quite confused about what I need for a chuck. He seems to use three different ones, starting with a basic screw thread and then two more complex ones to grip the inside and outside of the bowls. He commented that they do not mark the wood. When I was at school (some while ago....) I am pretty sure that for the one and only bowl I made it was screwed to a plate which had a spigot on it to go in a chuck.

Please can you tell me what I should look out for as a chuck suitable for making quite simple bowls up to say 12" diameter (but starting with small stuff) on the CL1? It has a rotating headstock and a special tool rest for bowls. Speed control is via a pulley system, not electronic. As this is just a bit of a sideline activity, I would prefer a reasonably economical solution and am in no rush, so can scan eBay. You can assume that I am a complete ignoramus.

Thanks, Adrian

 

[CHJ]

Basically you need to acquire a 100mm self centring scroll chuck.

I would say all of the current brand offerings are to an acceptable and usable standard.
One of the main criteria is the availability of a variety of accessory jaws, although a couple of patterns will cover a high percentage of your requirements, should you wish to experiment further it's good to have a chuck system with a good selection available.

Some accessory jaws are interchangeable across brands, but not all.

All Axminster accessory jaws are interchangeable on their 80, 100 & 114mm chucks.

I might suggest you have a look at the Axminster sk100 clubman as a starter which I think would meet your needs and use its spec. for a comparison with other recommendations or offers you find.

 

[nev]

and just to add to Chas' post, whichever brand or model of chuck you purchase the thread size you will require is 3/4 x 16tpi. (The chuck threads onto the spindle)
http://www.recordpower.co.uk/product/ch ... nW5STbPxsM

 

[AJB Temple]

Thanks gentlemen.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

And if you want budget but compatible with the Nova (teknatool) range then Rutlands do their Dakota brand for in the region of £70

 

[timber]

And if you want budget but compatible with the Nova (teknatool) range then Rutlands do their Dakota brand for in the region of £70

Adrian
And don't forget to price up the extra jaws that you will need ,compared to the chuck they are quiet expensive. The basic chuck is a little restricting in what it can hold and grip properly
Regards
Timber

 

[Rhossydd]

And don't forget to price up the extra jaws that you will need

You can get a huge amount achieved without needing lots of accessories for a scroll chuck.
The "C" type jaws are a good basic set to start that cover a huge range of possibilities. They also take useful cheap extras like a screw chuck/faceplate http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-sc ... aws-701456 or an MT holder http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-mo ... rs-ax21686 to allow quick centre changes without removing the chuck.
Then add extras only when you need them and know what you like making.

 

[Lons]

Adrian

I would go along with all the chuck advice however if you want to have a go at bowl turning before going to as much expense then you can try bowl turning with a faceplate or simple screwchuck. I guess many of us did that in the old days before they became so widely available. You might after all hate it, though unlikely.
Plenty of advice on youtube.

Bob

 

[woodpig]

You can get a huge amount achieved without needing lots of accessories for a scroll chuck.
The "C" type jaws are a good basic set to start that cover a huge range of possibilities.

Absolutely. The C jaws are very versatile and my steb centre, four prong and screw all go into the chuck without removing them.

 

[Rhossydd]

You might after all hate it,

The Catch 22 is that without a chuck, bowl turning can be awkward and you're less likely to enjoy it.

A chuck can be damn useful for spindle turning anyway.

 

[Stiggy]

I've just started turning, and I have been able to do an awful lot between centres on on a face plate.

It's a great way of learning how to use different tools and it's amazing what you can produce with little equipment or knowledge.

I have bought a new Axminster 4 prong drive centre and Santa will be bringing me an SK100 with C type jaws - just the new drive centre has made a huge difference and I can't wait to get the new chuck so my work can progress another step!

My chuck is a 3/4 16tpi same as yours, it cost £141 from Axminster - it looks well worth the money considering how much you can do with it.

 

[Lons]

You might after all hate it,

The Catch 22 is that without a chuck, bowl turning can be awkward and you're less likely to enjoy it.

A chuck can be damn useful for spindle turning anyway.

Absolutely agree Rhossydd but when I started I couldn't afford a chuck and you soon learn to improvise when you're keen.

I have a small Record sc3 chuck kit for which I bought some additional pen jaws but also got the Axi sk100 with C jaws and recently added a set of 3 sizes O'Connell jaws and wouldn't be with out any of them.

These look cheap though no experience of the Record RP2000

RP2000 for £70 @ http://www.screwfix.com/p/record-power- ... GwodykIFmA

SC3 for £100 @ http://www.screwfix.com/p/record-power- ... GwodLqgEDw

 

[BearTricks]

In all honesty I often prefer a hot glue gun to the chuck because I find it difficult to clean up the bottom of the bowl without it being off centre.

I have a few faceplates with scrap blocks screwed on. I finish the bottom first then turn it round, glue it on and do the bowl. Then the hot glue generally pops right off and needs a tiny clean up by hand with sandpaper.

Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk

 

[AJB Temple]

Thanks all. The Axminster kit seems to include an extension jaw set as well. But if I am going down that route I may as well wait until the end of Jan when I am doing the course at Axminster. The problem with using a faceplate is I don't have one of those either, so if I have to buy one I might as well buy a chuck I suppose.

In the meantime I will keep looking out for second hand (and a member has extremely kindly PM'd me about that).

I am also interested in turning some chess men (though I would have to source some ebony), which seems like quite good place to start practicing turning small items.

 

[Rhossydd]

I may as well wait until the end of Jan when I am doing the course at Axminster.

Beware, they usually raise their prices once a year in January when they release their new catalogue. Although they do also drop prices through the year on some items.
Last year the new catalogues dropped through people's letter boxes at the end of December, and may have been in store too, giving a heads up on the changes. Keep a wary eye on that.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

AJB - you could get hold of some holly and try ebonizing the black ones, it would be a sight cheaper than ebony to learn on. If you must use something black, African blackwood is a lot nicer to turn than ebony.

 

[Mark Hancock]

I may as well wait until the end of Jan when I am doing the course at Axminster.

Beware, they usually raise their prices once a year in January when they release their new catalogue. Although they do also drop prices through the year on some items.
Last year the new catalogues dropped through people's letter boxes at the end of December, and may have been in store too, giving a heads up on the changes. Keep a wary eye on that.

I've heard that there won't be any more catalogues after this year with everything being on their web site.

 

[Rhossydd]

I've heard that there won't be any more catalogues after this year with everything being on their web site.

Well that would save a few tedious threads here in January ;-)
I'd also guess it'll save Axi a fair amount too. Having had two major re-designs on their site in quick succession they must have invested heavily in e-commerce in the last two years.

A bit of a shame though, some things remain easier to find in the paper catalogue than searching their site.

 

[AJB Temple]

Thanks Phil. I have never tried using African Blackwood, but will seek some out. As it happens I do have a supply of ebony that I bought back in the 1980s, along with quite a lot of Brazilian rosewood. This was at a time when I had plans to make a series of acoustic guitars. Only a couple ever got made and I had bought enough stock for about 40! (t was necessary to buy a job lot at the time, t get hold dog the stuff). Most of the ebony is cut to just over guitar fingerboard thickness, but I do have a small supply of board that is about 40mm thick. However, no need to waste it.

My experience of ebonizing has been limited to inlays and it rarely looks convincing to my eye. However, having no real experience of turning, it may be that a wood that takes to the tools well is the most important factor. I shall have to experiment. Thanks for the tips.

 

[andygc]

But if I am going down that route I may as well wait until the end of Jan when I am doing the course at Axminster.

They give you a 5% discount for purchases made during a course.