Finishing a geeky jewellery box

[Matthew.Blake]

I'm trying to build what is in essence a jewellery box but far more geeky as it is to store a board game (Arkham Horror) in an easier to set up state. To do so I've had to teach myself some woodworking (such is my love of the game) and am now nearly ready to go on the first stage. I have some reclaimed black walnut coming in the post and have been practicing using different finishes on some scraps I managed to find.

The finish I've found I most like is a few layers of boiled linseed oil with shellac on top (it's a store bought solution of shellac rather than flakes I've mixed myself. I'd tell you the name but it's in the man shed and it's cold outside).

The question I have, which shall reveal how much of a newbie I am to this, is am I better off finishing each piece of wood individually and then putting together or putting the box together and then applying my finish. My fear for the former option is I will have many many pieces of wood (80+ from memory) that are only around 3" x 1.5" and will struggle to get an even finish on both sides doing them on their own. My fear for the latter option is I will end up with oil pooling in the corners and crevices that my ungainly man hands will be unable to stop.

On a related note if you think there is a better choice of finish, go ahead and say!

 

[stevenw1963]

I'd tell you the name but it's in the man shed and it's cold outside).

You can't say ''man'' shed then say it's ''too cold'' to go outside !!! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

You can get an acrylic spray lacquer, which leaves a gloss & hardwearing finish. Sand down between layers & spray light coats. Lot less messing about.

 

[marcros]

it is difficult to know without seeing the box design. Personally, if it is fiddly i would probably oil the bits before assembly, and dont do it when you only have half an hour to do it- it takes longer than you think. If the box is reasonably straight sided/simple, then assemble and then oil. The oil will soak in to a degree, so you oil, then let it sit for a while (20 odd minutes), and wipe over it with a rag. this will remove the excess. it shouldnt pool into corners like paint would, if you are reasonably careful and dont apply too thickly. you may have more of an issue denibbing in the small corners. I dont think that you will get too uneven a finish doing the parts individually, and by the time you have oiled the last, the first will be ready for a wipe over to remove the excess. Oil brings out the grain, so will highlight grain differences rather than being obvious where has has a slightly thicker oiling than the next. make sure it dries properly before any subsequent coat. i tend to do a coat a day, but i am in no rush normally.

i used some black walnut and put oil then shellac and really liked the result. it wasnt linseed oil, but tru-oil. linseed will work just as well though and is a popular choice. Thinking back, i did oil that before assembly because it was a raised panel, and the surrounding oak had a different oil on it.

How are you applying the shellac- brushing on? You may need to thin it a bit with meths. I would always shellac after assembly- use a smaller brush if necessary to get into corners. Brushing shellac is an art in itself. Worth having a practice on a piece of anything first just to get a feel of the speed etc. dont go back over a stroke- it isnt like painting. it isnt difficult, just different to what you may have done before. the fact that it is walnut wont make a difference, just find a piece of any scrap. When you do the final piece, have a final practice by doing the base first.

 

[Matthew.Blake]

I'd tell you the name but it's in the man shed and it's cold outside).

You can't say ''man'' shed then say it's ''too cold'' to go outside !!! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

You can get an acrylic spray lacquer, which leaves a gloss & hardwearing finish. Sand down between layers & spray light coats. Lot less messing about.

I've not tried lacquers yet, but I confess part of my decision to use oil and shellac is I quite like just sitting down applying them. Partly for the same reason I've eschewed using any form of power tool in the design and have been teaching myself to make nice(ish) dovetails with a chisel and a gents saw rather than just use a jig.

How are you applying the shellac- brushing on? You may need to thin it a bit with meths. I would always shellac after assembly- use a smaller brush if necessary to get into corners. Brushing shellac is an art in itself. Worth having a practice on a piece of anything first just to get a feel of the speed etc. dont go back over a stroke- it isnt like painting. it isnt difficult, just different to what you may have done before. the fact that it is walnut wont make a difference, just find a piece of any scrap. When you do the final piece, have a final practice by doing the base first.

I've been using rags with cotton wool in them to apply the shellac. I've found that way I get a smoother coat. I've never had much luck applying anything other than acrylic paint with a brush. I've a bag of offcuts I got from ebay that I've been practicing finishing on. The varnish experiment was ugly, but it was more my fault than the varnish I confess. Each piece has been taking me a couple of days to finish to my liking so I'm happy to spend time on it.

 

[marcros]

it sounds like you have a good grasp of what you are doing!

for brushing, i bought a brush designed for it and it made a big difference- pure squirrel hair IIRC. It was expensive, but will last a lifetime with a bit of care and in perspective was nothing on comparison with the value of a finished item in time alone. if you get a good finish with padding then go for it.

There is varnish and varnish- I dont like the modern ones on most items, but the wiping varnishes like tru-oil are nicer. They are not as tough as the PU or so called yacht varnishes though. The modern ones i find a bit plasticy.

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techn ... ry-and-use is quite interesting for a quick read.

 

[Matthew.Blake]

it sounds like you have a good grasp of what you are doing!

for brushing, i bought a brush designed for it and it made a big difference- pure squirrel hair IIRC. It was expensive, but will last a lifetime with a bit of care and in perspective was nothing on comparison with the value of a finished item in time alone. if you get a good finish with padding then go for it.

There is varnish and varnish- I dont like the modern ones on most items, but the wiping varnishes like tru-oil are nicer. They are not as tough as the PU or so called yacht varnishes though. The modern ones i find a bit plasticy.

(censored because I can't post links) is quite interesting for a quick read.

I'll try to get one of those wiping varnishes mentioned at the end of that and see if I have any luck with them or maybe the tru-oil you like if I can find it. How do they stand up rubbing when the box is being used?

 

[marcros]

tru-oil is used as a gun stock finish, so should stand up pretty well. Also popular on guitars i believe. Dont buy a huge bottle because it has a shelf life and a little goes a long way. an 8oz bottle was about the most financially efficient for me because it was only a couple of quid more than the 3oz. I got mine from a local gun shop, although ebay is often as good as anywhere. it is easy enough to touch up if used as a standalone finish.

 

[Matthew.Blake]

tru-oil is used as a gun stock finish, so should stand up pretty well. Also popular on guitars i believe. Dont buy a huge bottle because it has a shelf life and a little goes a long way. an 8oz bottle was about the most financially efficient for me because it was only a couple of quid more than the 3oz. I got mine from a local gun shop, although ebay is often as good as anywhere. it is easy enough to touch up if used as a standalone finish.

Thanks, looks like Amazon to the rescue. No gun shops I know of anywhere near me.

 

[carlb40]

tru-oil is used as a gun stock finish, so should stand up pretty well. Also popular on guitars i believe. Dont buy a huge bottle because it has a shelf life and a little goes a long way. an 8oz bottle was about the most financially efficient for me because it was only a couple of quid more than the 3oz. I got mine from a local gun shop, although ebay is often as good as anywhere. it is easy enough to touch up if used as a standalone finish.

Thanks, looks like Amazon to the rescue. No gun shops I know of anywhere near me.

Not sure what part of coventry you are in.

You could try some of these?

http://www.godivagunscoventry.co.uk/

http://www.yell.com/s/gun+dealers+and+g ... entry.html

 

[Matthew.Blake]

Not sure what part of coventry you are in.

You could try some of these?

(newbie can't post web addresses)

Ah, very close. I might wander down there this afternoon! Thanks.