Finish on iroko worktop?

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MrYorke

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Customer has moved into new house. The kitchen is around 15 years old.

They want me to move a couple of base units which means cutting the worktop which is no problem.

The worktop is in great nick but I'm wondering what oil/wax the customer should be using to keep it tip top.....any ideas?

And no, I don't know what finish is on it but whatever has been used is not showing or feels like anything is there....if that makes sense

Also, the worktop behind the hob is dark red, I'm guessing from cooking oil/fat. The customer would like all the worktop to look this colour.....if possible.

Cheers in advance

And, where the freshly cut worktop meets a granite worktop (sink area), what should I use to "seal" the end? PVA or silicon?
 
I normally use the howdens worktop oil. I had to do a small top in my workshop this week . I didn't want to buy a whole big tin of the usual stuff so bought a £4 250ml tin of liberon danish oil from toolstation that was ok too.

Just use thin coats and build up slowly , I used to follow the instructions on the tin and put a heavy coat the wipe off after 10 mins but now find its better to put on thin coats.
 
If its iroko, when finished naturally its rarely all the same colour. They blend beautifully and teak oil really makes the wood look spectacular but I'm not sure how food safe it is. Danish looks nice and is food safe as well as being water repellant.

If you wanted the more uniform red then maybe a pu finish of some sort but Sun flower oil would be another option, its what most wooden kitchen accessories recommend you coat then in.
 
Though I'm not keen on Ikea, I've found that the oil they sell for their worktops is prettyy good as well. From memory, it wasn't too expensive either though it's a few years ago since I used it for a customer and left the tin with her.

Bob
 
Lons":xl9gv615 said:
.....it's a few years ago since I used it for a customer and left the tin with her.

Bob


How did she turn out? Polished cheeks I bet!
 
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