Finish for an oak display cabinet

[sawdust maker]

Hi All
I've just completed a display cabinet made from European Oak. I was planning to finish it with pure Tung Oil but have been put off a bit by the 1 to 3 day drying period. What are your thoughts on this finish and can you suggest an alternative.

 

[MIGNAL]

Try a Danish Oil, which is usually a mixture of a resin and a drying Oil. Simple to apply, although like any Oil finish it will highlight sanding scratches like nothing else.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

+1 I've been using Chestnut Finishing Oil (which afaik is Danish under another name) on sycamore - it's thin, and it doesn't seem to darken it significantly. thought of OSMO it's good, and easier to use - it's only two coats, although I seem to remember someone trying it on oak and not liking it (mailee, iirc). I suggest trying anything on scrap first - they are all good finishes, you'll find a use for them on something else.

 

[sawdust maker]

Hi Thanks for the suggestions. Should I use Danish oil directly on the would or use Sanding sealer first?

Finishing is the hardest bit for me. I have made a mess of a number of projects by getting it wrong.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Make sure you go through the grits - don't cut corners thinking you can go from eg. 100 to 240, you might get away with one grade but not two or three. Personally, I don't like using sealer as it can affect the absorption of any finish designed to sink in making it go patchy. If you need to raise the grain try hot water or better, steam. Steam is good for getting dents out as well. If it does no good, it'll do no harm. I do use sealer, but I'm wary when I use it - you probably wouldn't need it on oak (boards) anyway.

 

[sawdust maker]

MIGNAL pointed out that Danish oil like other oil finishes will show up sanding marks like nothing else. This now worries me. What if I gave it one or two coats of sanding sealer and then followed up with a Bees-wax polish?

 

[Phil Pascoe]

As one of the guys here pointed out - why would you want to finish something with a product that is designed purposely to be scratched (as in sanding)? Seemed logical to me. Microcrystalline wax is much better than beeswax for not showing marks. Just be careful with the finish, you shouldn't have too many marks in flat oak - I suspect you're making a mountain out of a molehill. As I said, try some scrap first if you're unsure.

 

[MIGNAL]

For Oil finishes I go to no less than 400G, always hand sanding with the grain. Landing and taking off, as in an aircraft. Then again I look at the work extremely closely, in raking light. Any slight scratches show with Oil. With something like Shellac the same scratches don't.
If you don't want to go to the bother of sanding to that level then use a coat or two of Shellac/Sanding sealer and wax on top of that. Perfectly good soft looking finish that has a certain warmth. Oil doesn't feel warm but Oil does display the grain in a richer more vibrant manner, which has to do with it's index of refraction.

 

[sawdust maker]

Thanks everyone. Looks like it's sanding sealer followed by wax. Will post pictures of the finished cabinet when Its done.

 

[sneggysteve]

See the "how-to's" at the top of the page - why not try Briwax - I followed these instructions to finish European oak fire surround and very pleased

 

[sawdust maker]

Briwax is the wax I've gone for. I ordered it from Amazon yesterday with the promise of next day delivery, at no extra cost . I have a 1 Kilo block of bees-wax and was tempted to make my own wax, but I think I will try that another day.

 

[sawdust maker]

Well true to their word the wax has come, one minute under 24 hours, not bad. Only problem, I signed up to 30 day free trial of Amazon Prime without realizing it, that how I got next day delivery free :shock: .