Filling cracks

[Rhossydd]

I'm just finishing a large Walnut bowl and there are a few small voids in the figuring in some burr like features.

For myself I'd be happy to leave them, but I suspect that the person I'm making the bowl for would like a smooth unblemished surface.

What do the team recommend as a good filler for this situation ? It will need to be black, preferably food safe (it will likely get used as a fruit bowl) and not a nightmare to use (ie NOT epoxy).

TIA

Paul

 

[Spindle]

Hi

You can get coloured wax 'repair' sticks which you melt into the crack and smooth off afterwards - probably the easiest and least intrusive repair.

http://www.liberon.co.uk/retouch-and-re ... EmfA%3D%3D

Regards Mick

 

[Tazmaniandevil]

CA glue works well. Lay the cracks so they are flat and run in medium thick glue and cover with baking soda. The soda reacts with the CA and helps it activate.
You may need 2 or 3 treatments, but it is much less messy than epoxy and the excess can be sanded or polished with car polish.

 

[Rhossydd]

Thanks. The wax sticks were already top of my list and look the most suitable. I would have thought the CA might be a bit brittle and I'm expecting a little movement in the bowl when it moves indoors to a much drier environment.

Am I missing any other alternative ?

 

[CHJ]

I constantly just use coloured sanding dust or coffee grounds to fill voids.
Fill with dust and apply thin CA, if void large this may need to be done in stages.

I have a collection of little jars and tubs filled with fine sanding dust from the various woods.
A contrast often looks more in keeping than a bad match, if in doubt go darker, looks more natural like a wood knot.

If you don't have dust to hand, rubbing an offcut on a piece of 120 grit paper will invariably get you enough for a small blemish.

 

[heatherw]

Shellac sticks are harder than wax, you have to melt them into the voids, but they are much more permanent. They come in loads of different colours.

 

[Paul.J]

I had the same problem on that Yew hollow form i turned this week with the split in the whiter sap wood which was more difficult to fill as to not make it looking so obvious so decided to lelave it as is.
Any suggestions for doing that for future ref??

 

[Spindle]

Hi

Wherever possible I leave voids and shakes alone - I think they add character to the work.

If filling is a must, then I prefer to go for a contrast rather than trying to disguise it.

Regards Mick

 

[marcros]

You can get a white shellac stick and can mix the colours. It is therefore possible to exactly match the shade you need. In my limited experience, it can ale a while to get it just right. Much easier to fill voids that are a range of browns!

 

[Paul.J]

Hi Mick.
Yes so do i but the split on that Yew HF does look like its has split after turning,but was in the log when i mounted it,and does spoil it i feel,it doesn't look natural if yo usee what i mean??

 

[Rhossydd]

Wherever possible I leave voids and shakes alone - I think they add character to the work.
If filling is a must, then I prefer to go for a contrast rather than trying to disguise it.

As I said in my OP, I prefer to leave little imperfections like this for my own pieces. However when making something that will hopefully provide some utility, rather than just aesthetic pleasure, for the recipient. Filling these particular little voids will be important. If not they'll collect dust, fragments of cloth if it's polished and could look a mess in a few years time.

With respect to a contrasting coloured filler; again in this particular piece I think it would just look wrong and catch the eye for all the wrong reasons. Black is the way to go.

 

[Bodrighy]

I agree with Chas that you are better off making a feature of any splits rather than trying to hide them, they will always show and look like a split. The two examples below are the same method as Chas's but using aluminium or brass powder. You can get it in copper as well.

Aluminium powder and CA glue

Brass powder and CA glue

Pete

 

[woodfarmer]

Ok I give in. What is CA glue ??

 

[Spindle]

Spindle wrote:

Wherever possible I leave voids and shakes alone - I think they add character to the work.
If filling is a must, then I prefer to go for a contrast rather than trying to disguise it.

As I said in my OP, I prefer to leave little imperfections like this for my own pieces. However when making something that will hopefully provide some utility, rather than just aesthetic pleasure, for the recipient. Filling these particular little voids will be important. If not they'll collect dust, fragments of cloth if it's polished and could look a mess in a few years time.

With respect to a contrasting coloured filler; again in this particular piece I think it would just look wrong and catch the eye for all the wrong reasons. Black is the way to go.

Hi

This response was to Paul. J - Sorry for any confusion

Regards Mick

 

[EnErY]

I go with Pete The Brass powder And Ca Glue makes an interesting feature on anything with a crack also copper dust works well and gives pieces a realistic warm glow enhancing rather than showing a void
Regards
Bill

 

[Rhossydd]

What is CA glue ??

Cynoacrylate
Super glue is the most commonly known variant, but there are many more specialised types with different characteristics eg gap filling, slow bonding time etc.
http://www.toolpost.co.uk/pages/Finishe ... sives.html

 

[Bodrighy]

You can buy super glue in various consistencies from thin to thick. I use the medium one for filling cracks as the thick one tends to dry too quickly when contacting the powder or sawdust and doesn't fill the cracks properly and the thin one goes every where. Before applying it give the surrounding wood a quick coat of sanding sealer as the CA glue will stain the wood if used directly onto it. Make the filling slightly proud and when dry sand it back to level stationary as it is quicker and less hassle than doing it on the lathe at speed. I use these to push the mix into the crack. If they get clogged with dry mix just a quick flash at the grinder cleans them off. If it is a deep one I also fill the bottom half of the crack with dust / CA glue first, saves on the powder.

Pete

 

[procell]

Woodfarmer.... CA glue is superglue Cyanoacrylate to be exact.

On the subject of filling with brass dust or other metals, My son went to the local pound shop yesterday and came back with a pot of childrens glitter paint. I have not tried it in a crack yet and I think it may need to be mixed with some epoxy or CA glue but for £1 its worth a try.
I will let you know how experiments go with it.

 

[Vic Perrin]

I can't make my mind up on this issue, the natural cracks etc really give a piece some character, but the brass/ copper filling also looks superb.

Vic

 

[Rhossydd]

Thanks for all the advice above; Here's the finished piece:

Here's the detail o where the crack was filled. Discreet I hope you agree:

And finally as all woodturners first turn things over and look at the base, here's what it looked like just prior to taking it off the lathe.