Early Sash Window / Shutters RESEARCH

[rhrwilliams]

Thanks for reply / info Mike

 

[Jacob]

....
1) At the meeting rail I did a dovetail type joint (taken from Cassells joinery book). I made a bit of a hash of this , is there an easier joint that can be used ?

Never seen a DT in old work so never used it. Always a simple bridle pinned through.

2) I scribed everything on the spindle moulder and hoped it all fitted together later - it did mostly but was not micro mm perfect. Do most people do this on spindle or scribe by hand ? The profile I used was a complicated one and I think an Ovolo or something may be easier to scribe by hand. I can see that doing it by hand has some advantages.

By hand always - everything always marked up from the rod so I'd just follow the marks. After marking up ALL the components for all the windows (could be a lot of bits!) you are on autopilot just obeying the marks and hoping it'll come out right!

3) What tolerance do you allow between sash / box frame for sliding and between sash / staff beads ? I left 1.5mm but this feels tight still.

3mm total (1.5 gap each side) so a £1 coin would be about right for offsetting the staff beads as you nail them in. The gap from back of stiles to the pulley stiles can be more

4) I had real trouble squaring the box frame up - does it hold together square when you glue linings on, or do you rely on wedging it square in the opening ? Also do you make up the box frame on the bench or glue and pin the linings on when its in the opening ?

Usual squaring up procedure is to check the diagonals with a lath - nail in one end as a pivot, marks at the other. Use sash cramps to pull it straight. Front linings glued and nailed, back linings nailed only and removed for fitting, then nailed glued

5) What stock thickness is generally used ? I used 22mm for box frame, 15mm for external linings and 18mm internal linings. I was thinking 15mm may be too thin for external linings.

Sounds OK but many variations - basically bigger means thicker

6) If I want to draft proof sashes, so I need to alter construction at all at this stage ?

If they well made and well fitted they are draught proof enough and anything extra just makes life complicated - moisture traps, paint problems, stiff movement etc.

Best useful tip of all - use linseed oil paints, nothing else will do. I only discovered this about 10 years ago and have used nothing else since. It's utterly superior to any modern paint though it's different in many ways and takes some getting used to.

Best of luck!

 

[rhrwilliams]

Thanks Jacob I've made box see other thread ...

 

[rhrwilliams]

Also I did another sash which had a simple ovolo and scribed it by hand .... I've got the hang of it now and it's not such a difficult task as I thought .

Thanks for all the help . Very much appreciated

 

[Jacob]

Also I did another sash which had a simple ovolo and scribed it by hand .... I've got the hang of it now and it's not such a difficult task as I thought .

Thanks for all the help . Very much appreciated

Scribing - you cut at 45º then saw out the profile (or gouge etc). Or pencil in a line sighting with combi square at 45º and follow that. Easy to say difficult to describe!
There are various cheats such as mitreing at 45º on one but steeper on the other (quick hack with sharp chisel), then gouge a bit out of first one to partially house the second.