Does this chisel exist?

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GrahamRounce

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Hi all.
I want to make a clean inside corner, and thought that a chisel that could be held flat on the wood before being hit with the mallet would be good.
I've made this ridiculous picture
FlatChisel.jpg

to try to crudely show something like it.
(I know you can use an ordinary chisel held with the bevel downwards, but this would save having to get the angle right.)
Is there such a thing? What's it called?
Thanks again!
Graham
 
a bit wide maybe, but how about a blade from your hand plane?
Or for something smaller, a blade from a spoke shave etc
 
Thanks! That was quick!
Actually the wood will be about 3/4" thick, so a wide blade would be better. But wouldn't a plane blade be curved a little? Anyway, I'm ashamed to say I don't have one yet. I can always cannibalise an old (or cheap) chisel, but I just wondered, as there seems to be a tool for everything imagined and not.... (yes, I've been browsing the Rutlands catalogue!)
 
Graham

If you could explain a bit more about what you are making people can give you better advice - sometimes it's the method you need to know, not just the tool.

From your diagram, it seems to me that you just need an ordinary chisel, held with the back down, but give us some idea of the scale you are working on, which way the grain runs and what sort of wood.

Andy
 
Your picture seems to describe a job for a paring chisel (with the exception of hitting it). These are normally sharpened at a low angle so that there is minimal resistance and they can be pushed through the fibres by hand pressure only.

Like the other guys said, a bit more info on the specifics of the application would be helpful in order to establish if and why this wouldn't be a normal paring job.
 
Hi - OK, I want to make a star-of-David-shaped tabletop, about 3/4" thick, with some kind of beading round the edge. I just want to get the corners as clean as possible with minimal effort and chances of making mistakes...

I just thought that some kind of flat blade that could be pressed against the wood to sharpen the "inside" corners would ensure that the line of the wood wouldn't deviate on that last crucial bit. I can easily see myself accidentally digging too deeply with an ordinary chisel, though I'm aware that a proper craftsman wouldn't have a problem with it.

Here's another blockbusting (exaggerated) pic of what I'm trying to AVOID achieving!
FlatChisel2.jpg
 
Yep, it's a paring chisel job.

You can either go for a traditional straight one (preferable in my opinion if you can get away with it, as you have a much better feel for what is going on at the business end). Or if the sides are deeper than the 10" or so blade of a standard paring chisel you could go for a cranked version.

Because they are very sharp you can push them by hand and control the depth of cut very accurately, cut across the fibres first and then along them to free the chip from the end. You can work down in stages to make the final piece of waste as thin as possible and therefore further reduce the amount of pressure needed and by definition increase the amount of control you have over the cut. They are designed to be held flat against the surface of the timber as shown in your first picture.
 
matthewwh":11junhx9 said:
Yep, it's a paring chisel job.

You can either go for a traditional straight one (preferable in my opinion if you can get away with it, as you have a much better feel for what is going on at the business end). Or if the sides are deeper than the 10" or so blade of a standard paring chisel you could go for a cranked version.

Since the cranked version can work an unlimited depth (and is also handy for cleaning glue out of inside corner in carcases) I'd recommend a 1/2" or 3/4" cranked paring chisel.

I think Crown, Hamlet, and Ashley Iles make them.

BugBear
 
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