DeWalt 625 Router Locking Mechanism

[Niles Crane]

Morning all,

Wondering if anyone can shed some light on a problem I had yesterday evening with this router.

I was using a template cutting bit (straight edge, 1/4" shank) on two pieces of 20mm ply that had been glued together. The top layer had already been prepared and the lower had been cut to within about 5mm of the edge of the top.
Within a few seconds of starting the cut the locking mechanism on the router released, the router moved up and I ended up with a nice divot/ track/ foobar in the top of my piece.
I started cutting again, setting the lock more securely and it released again a little into the cut.
The cutter didn't seem to be cutting smoothly and it's vibrations would have released the lock, but I would imagine the mechanism should be able to cope with some vibration.
Speed setting on the router was 3.

Would anyone know if this is something I've done wrong or is there a problem with the lock on the router?
Any help greatly appreciated as I'm a little narked at the moment about the router.

 

[9fingers]

If it is anything like the lock on my Flex router, it needs a little adjustment from time to time to compensate for wear but once tweaked is fine again.
Take it to pieces and see how it works.
lots of explodinging diagrams of DW equipment on line. Search for dewalt spares and then your router on specific sites.
hth
Bob

 

[Niles Crane]

Thanks Bob,

The router is only five months old though, and has only been used about three times or four times.
I was wondering if maybe I had the speed to low, or the bit was junk. Didn't think taking a five mill strip off a piece of ply would even cause vibrations let alone enough to shake the lock.

 

[Paul Chapman]

Where the cutting depth is critical and you don't want to risk the setting moving, I would would use a fine height adjuster and lock this with a nut and washer. If you look at the picture below

you will see I've fitted a washer and nut at the base of the threaded rod. If you set the depth of cut with the fine height adjuster, then screw up the washer and nut so that it locks the setting, nothing can move.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Niles Crane]

Hi Paul,

Many thanks for the reply, and for taking the time to post a picture.
I may be wrong, but won't the nut on the bottom stop me plunging too deep but won't stop the plunge mechanism on the router releasing while executing a cut?


I found an image that's very similar to what I was trying to do elsewhere

I had removed the excess from the sheet below and while hand routing the vibrations released the plunge mechanism allowing the router to cut a chunk out of my nice oval top.

Am I correct in thinking though that the consensus is that the plunge lock isn't too reliable on these things, or I was going about it wrong?

 

[Paul Chapman]

Hi Paul,

Many thanks for the reply, and for taking the time to post a picture.
I may be wrong, but won't the nut on the bottom stop me plunging too deep but won't stop the plunge mechanism on the router releasing while executing a cut?

The plunge lock lever really only works by friction, so there's always a danger it can release slightly. You have various options if you want to ensure that the cutter won't move while executing the cut.

Adjust the depth of cut by using the fine height adjuster. The fine height adjuster will still enable you to plunge, but will prevent the router springing upwards.

If you want to restrict the downward travel of the cutter, you can adjust the turret depth stop.

A combination of the fine height adjuster and the turret depth stop will restrict both upward and downward movement of the cutter.

Alternatively, you can use the locking nut idea that I mentioned above.

As I say, there are various options and you need to choose the right one for the particular job you are doing in order to ensure you don't spoil the work by the cutter doing something unexpected. Have a play around without the router switched on and you'll see what I mean.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Niles Crane]

Paul, you're a gentleman and a scholar. Your help is much appreciated.
Not sure why that particular bit caused enough vibration to release the lock, but it's reassuring not to hear a chorus of 'send it back'.
Next time I'm using a bearing guided bit I'll follow your suggestions. I think I may get a new bit from Wealden to replace the one I have as well; just for peace of mind :wink:

 

[chippy1970]

my dewalt 626 is like that too you have to really lock it off and as paul says use the nuts on the threaded rod to lock it if your worried , i always use them if im biscuit jointing with it.

 

[jasonB]

How far out of the collet was the bit, looking at those pictures you are cutting something 18mm below the base plate, even allowing for the bearing that would mean something like 15mm or more of the cutter shank exposed. This combined with a 1/4" shank bit and ply which can be quiet hard if its hardwood or birch ply would vibrate and chatter

You don't need to get a fine height adjuster the DW is like the Elu and has a quick action nut on the threaded rod that can be lowered to stop the machine springing up.

Jason

 

[Niles Crane]

Hi Jason,

Think you have hit the nail on the head. I've just roughed out a diagram on a postit and you're calculation of 15mm of cutter shank or more is certainly ball park, if not bang on. Explains the vibration perfectly.

Thanks again to all. I feel suitably reassured about my router after turning the air seven shades of blue on Monday evening :roll: