Desk Building Questions

[ByronBlack]

So, after spending almost all of my money and energy on the workshop build, i'm ready for something a little less agricultural and get down and dirty with some furniture making.

I'm ready to make a couple of desks for the office - which is the first room in the new house which is almost finished. It was wall to ceiling pink and purple when we moved in, so required about a billion coats of paint.

Anyways, onto the questions. I intend to use 18mm Veneer Ply (no intentions of using MDF) with hardwood facing. I'm probably going to go for a Maple veneer for the sheet material and Walnut for the facing.

How do I finish the veneer? Does it come in a state ready to apply a finish, or does it require sanding - i'm a bit worried about sanding down through the veneer.

Is there a supplier that can do hardwoods in thin strips such as 25mm and 50mm. I intend to make a hardwood frame support to stop any sagging of the desktop - the main desk will be over 7 and a half foot long, are there specific ways of avoiding sag, or will the 18mm sheet and hardwood frame of 25mm be enough?

Finally, when approaching suppliers for the veneered ply, what should I ask for - any specific grade/codes I should be aware of, and what would be an average price for an 8x4 of maple veneered ply? I've had a little look on the web, can't seem to find any concrete pricing - i'm still waiting to hear back from my usual supplier as they have to get in on a special order.

 

[Anonymous]

Why are you ruling out mdf veneers?

 

[garywayne]

Veneer needs to be sanded just like solid wood. You must be very careful not to go all the way through though.

Don't be scared of it, but be careful

Good luck.

 

[jasonB]

You will have difficulty finding 18mm veneered ply, it usually only goes upto 12mm and thats one sided with balancer.

I usually just hand sand with 180 and 320g silicon carbide paper before applying a finish. It is possible to power sand with a ROS but take it easy and use fine grits.

25 & 50mm hardwood strips will be expensive as they are nominal sizes so will have to be machined from the next size up, if you ask for 19 & 44mm finished sizes you will get better value for money. Most suppliers with machining facilities will be able to supply what you need.

Even if supported along the back wall a sheet of 18mm with a strip of 25mm under it will sag. I would suggest a 25x75 frame with the 75mm dimension vertically. Or why not have a run of 3-4" draws under the top, the base of the draws and dividers will in effect be a torsion box.

As for pricing you should get some ideas hereand here

Jason

 

[ByronBlack]

Hi Guys

Senior - I've ruled out MDF just because I really don't like working with it that much, the dust, the weight - I would rather use ply. Also MDF I don't think would be good over a distance of 7ft, whereas Ply would be more rigid.

Garywayne - thanks, i'll most definitly be careful, like Jason i'll probaby do it by hand rather than the ROS.

JasonB - I'll actually be making two desks. The 7ft one will have no under storage as it need to be free and clear for myself and one other to move freely up and down the length of desk to a number of computers. However, the smaller 6' desk will be having drawers.

The 25x75 frame you mention, can that be done in something like redwood - i'm trying to keep the cost down or should I go for a proper hardwood, if so, what would be a good choice for strength and rigidity but also relatively low cost.

Thanks for all the info so far!.

 

[jasonB]

A good quality redwood with few knots will be OK but remember that 25x75 will plane down to 19x68 I would but 32mm nominal and end up with 25mm finish size. The other option is something like tulipwood(american poplar) this is a nice clear wood that is easy to work and could be stained with vandyke crystals to look like walnut, the knots in pine would be a giveaway if you stained it.

Jason