Danish/finishing oil

[Phil Pascoe]

Does anyone know whether there is any significant difference between Danish Oil and Finishing Oil? I'm using Chestnut Finishing oil at present, and I can't see it's much different to Danish. I assume however that there is, as some manufacturers sell both (unless that's just a cunning plan :? ).

 

[John15]

I seem to remember reading somewhere that Chestnut Oil is very similar to Finishing Oil.

John

 

[Woodmonkey]

I've used both and I couldn't tell any difference

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Yes, likewise. I wonder though if they are one and the same as Liberon (for one) sell Danish Oil and Finishing Oil. Is it the same product in different cans? Why? :?

 

[RogerS]

Doesn't it come down to the relative percentages of the basic ingredients such as tung oil, linseed oil, crude oil and old used deep-fryer fat? OK I jest...not the first two. :wink:

 

[bugbear]

IME Liberon Finishing oil has more body and dries faster than Rustins Danish oil.

Other finishes are available.

BugBear

 

[MIGNAL]

Liberon probably differentiate it by a greater resin to oil ratio. When I bought their finishing Oil it didn't seem much different to my usual Colron Danish Oil but a few percent difference isn't going to be very noticeable. But there is no one set recipe for Danish Oil, so Oil types and Oil/resin ratios will differ from one manufacturer to another.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Which way around would you presume it to be? It's a bit difficult to judge without using the two (different) products from the same manufacturer at the same time. I was using Rustins (a while ago) which I suspect was thicker than the Chestnut Finishing Oil I'm using now. I suppose logically you could buy the thickest and thin it if needed. I'm looking to buy Blackfriars Danish as it's £34 per 5Ltrs delivered - I've not had a problem with Blackfriars stuff in the past.

 

[MIGNAL]

I would assume that the finishing Oil has a greater resin content but don't quote me on that. Resins are much harder than cured Oil so you would expect a slighty harder finish.
Thicker/thinner may not be that relevant as that's highly influenced by the amount of solvent content, which is considerable in these wiping varnishes. However once the solvent has flashed off it may be easier to judge the solids content. Then again the difference is probably small.
Anything with resin content of 50% + is considered a short Oil varnish, anything below that is a long oil varnish. Marine varnishes are virtually always a long Oil varnish because they need the flexibility in the finished film that a high Oil content gives. Short Oil varnishes tend to be hard, very short Oil varnishes can be hard, brittle and crack readily.
You could always fire off an email to liberon and ask them what the difference is. They won't give you an exact recipe but they may give you a descriptive answer.

 

[MIGNAL]

Which way around would you presume it to be? It's a bit difficult to judge without using the two (different) products from the same manufacturer at the same time. I was using Rustins (a while ago) which I suspect was thicker than the Chestnut Finishing Oil I'm using now. I suppose logically you could buy the thickest and thin it if needed. I'm looking to buy Blackfriars Danish as it's £34 per 5Ltrs delivered - I've not had a problem with Blackfriars stuff in the past.

5 Ltrs is a lot of Danish Oil. My Colron has a shelf life of 2 to 3 years, then it fast becomes jam. I don't store it upside down but doing so certainly extends that shelf life. I sometimes buy very small bottle of Tru Oil and the shelf life can double just by storing it on it's lid.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Thank you. I should really have put my brain in gear when I thought along the thicker - thinner line. I'm a member of Cornwall Woodturners so I was looking to split the Danish two or three ways. I always store my paint upside down. The Chestnut Oil is toy safe" - i'm waiting for a reply (which doesn't seem likely at the moment) from Blackfriars as to whether their Danish is.

 

[CHJ]

My go to oil these days is the Chestnut Hard wax oil, got most of the others in the shop but that one seems to be the least variable in application results.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Update on this one. I tried to get some information. I didn't get a reply from Blackfriars. The published email address for Mylands didn't work. I got a very prompt reply from Terry Smart, but he couldn't help much as Chestnut don't make Danish Oil, only Finishing. I had a reply from Liberon - the lady told me that Danish was a mixture of oils and Finishing Oil was a mixture of tung oil and resins and that Finishing oil was for interior use only, and that Danish was recommended for interior and exterior use on woods with the exception of oak. She asked me what I was using the products for, I told her and asked why the exception of oak. That was Nov. 4th - it doesn't look like that one's going to get answered.