Cutting mitres
- Thread starter gjhimages
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If it's just skirtings, architraves etc. make yourself a mitre box.
mbartlett99
Established Member
As Phil said depends what its for - degree of precision required.
1) Nobex mitre saw - pretty precise not dreadfully expensive can often pick them up on ebay
2) High quality SCMS fully adjusted - bit pricey but you'll use it
3) Morso guillotine - the framers solution and it does what it says on the tin.
4) Axminster bench mounted guillotine - one trick pony but works and isn't too expensive
1) Nobex mitre saw - pretty precise not dreadfully expensive can often pick them up on ebay
2) High quality SCMS fully adjusted - bit pricey but you'll use it
3) Morso guillotine - the framers solution and it does what it says on the tin.
4) Axminster bench mounted guillotine - one trick pony but works and isn't too expensive
MikeG.
Established Member
Finer furniture etc...then it's knife, chisel, saw, and shooting board (so long as your joints allow it. Shoulder plane otherwise).
I'm trying to cut mitres at the moment. I don't have a mitre or table saw, so tried the bandsaw and track saw. The bandsaw wasn't accurate as the jig I knocked up had too much play in the mitre channel, and the track saw was hopeless for smaller pieces. So I used a cheap plastic mitre box and tenon saw and got what I needed. If I need to be more accurate I'll make up a shooting board.
I'd chucked this old mitre box our as it has/ had worm but then got to wondering if I should remake it using the guides. Do you think the metal guides are actually useful, or is it better to just concentrate on getting the saw flush with the upright slots?
I'd chucked this old mitre box our as it has/ had worm but then got to wondering if I should remake it using the guides. Do you think the metal guides are actually useful, or is it better to just concentrate on getting the saw flush with the upright slots?
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I tried again this morning and with a bit more care managed a reasonable set of 4 corners
My evolution rage mitre saw can be hit and miss the adjustments are very fiddly maybe I will invest in a better saw
I don't need and don't have the Room for a sliding saw so maybe a makita mls100 will be more suitable
My evolution rage mitre saw can be hit and miss the adjustments are very fiddly maybe I will invest in a better saw
I don't need and don't have the Room for a sliding saw so maybe a makita mls100 will be more suitable
If you do this regularly invest in a better blade for the purpose.
thetyreman
Established Member
this might give you some ideas,[url https://www.popularwoodworking.com/wp-c ... Board2.pdf[/url]
Mark A
Established Member
You could buy a bush which would allow a 30mm bore blade to be used on your saw's 1" arbour.
They're sometimes called spacers or reducers too.
They're sometimes called spacers or reducers too.
Steve Maskery
Established Member
thetyreman":2qaqc799 said:
I have a lot of time for PopWood, but I'm saddened to see them perpetuating a commonly held belief:
"Inclined Shooting Board:
Another type of shooting board for both long-grain and cross-grain (end-grain) shooting is this inclined shooting board.
The sloping recess holds and guides the plane to allow full use of the whole width of the plane’s cutting iron. "
Correct, the wear is spread over a greater proportion of the width of the blade.
"The sloping guide allows the plane to cut at an oblique cutting angle, which, because of the slicing action, is more efficient than square cutting. "
Complete nonsense. The cutting angle is not oblique at all. A shear cut is when the blade moves in one direction whilst facing another. We do this all the time on the lathe with a skew chisel. The cutting edge is facing at, say, half-past ten, but moving from right to left.
Just by ramping the plane downhill does not alter the fact that the blade is moving in the same direction as that which it faces. A skew cut with a plane is made when the plane moves along the edge from end to end (six o'clock to twelve o'clock), but is twisted to, say, 11 o'clock. This reduces the cutting angle. The more it is twisted the lower the cutting angle becomes. Twist it by 90 degrees and we have zero cutting angle. More than that and the cutting angle becomes negative (i.e. the plane is moving backwards) and, of course, the plane no longer cuts at all.
On a ramped shooting board, no matter how steeply it is ramped, it will still cut with a head-on action.
It may help to imagine that the workpiece is a round dowel. No matter how you ramp the plane, the cut is identical.
gjhimages":3fymkyaw said:
The last blade I got from https://www.saxtonblades.co.uk/ had the reducers with it, inc. the 30mm to an inch.
woodbloke66
Established Member
If you're making mitres for something like a picture frame as opposed to skirting boards (where the mitre goes in a different direction) I agree with Mike; a mitre shooting board is the most accurate method (for me anyway) bearing in mind that you need to produce two pairs of absolutely identical pieces - RobMikeG.":csbzpwkw said:
Steve Maskery":3aun99tc said:
Both correct. We had a big discussion on this topic a year or so ago - the thread will be here somewhere.
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