Cutting logs - Chainsaw advice

[skeetoids]

Hi Folks,

Some people over the past few months have kindly been giving me lots of free wood. However, all of the pieces are too big to go through my band saw!

I've borrowed a friends 18" chainsaw and have enough protective gear to attempt to cut them to size.

What I really wanted to know is what is the best way of doing this?

Some logs are approx. 10" diameter and maybe 8" to 10" wide. One log is about 10" diameter and about 2.5ft - 3ft long.

I thought about cutting most of them into 3" to 4" thick discs, this way I'd be able to get them through the band saw and trim the diameter down so it would fit on my lathe. Is this a good enough way or can you suggest an easier/safer way etc.?

Many thanks,

Lee.

 

[wabbitpoo]

Do you intend turning bowls from them? If so u probably would be better doing so using a cross-grained blank. In other words, cut a log the same length as the diamter, then cut THAT in half lengthways (dont try that with the log on its end - lay it flat and stop it rolling while u cut it).

 

[tekno.mage]

You definitely want to split them down the pith as the first stage - ie down the length of each log to prevent uncontrolled splitting.

Depending on the wood, I'd be very inclined to do this part with an axe (which can be quicker and less effort than using a chainsaw) then use the chainsaw to tidy them up small enough to fit on the bandsaw and also to process any which are too difficult to split with an axe (ie crotch pieces which will potentially have interesting grain).

Once they are split in half, you may well find they are then small enough to process on the bandsaw.

tekno.mage

 

[Paul.J]

Might be worth making one ofThese if you are going to be using a chainsaw Lee.
If you are doing bowls then you need to cut the length just a little longer than the diam,then cut down the middle taking the pith out,or if yiu are turning straight away turn the pith out after.
If yiu are storing the logs keep em as long in length as possible until you need to use em.
Be careful with the chainsaw and look at as many safety videos as you can or seek pro advice.

 

[mark sanger]

Hi Folks,

Some people over the past few months have kindly been giving me lots of free wood. However, all of the pieces are too big to go through my band saw!

I've borrowed a friends 18" chainsaw and have enough protective gear to attempt to cut them to size.

What I really wanted to know is what is the best way of doing this?

Some logs are approx. 10" diameter and maybe 8" to 10" wide. One log is about 10" diameter and about 2.5ft - 3ft long.

I thought about cutting most of them into 3" to 4" thick discs, this way I'd be able to get them through the band saw and trim the diameter down so it would fit on my lathe. Is this a good enough way or can you suggest an easier/safer way etc.?

Many thanks,

Lee.

Lee

My DVD you have just purchased goes through this at the beginning. Although I was not going to show the use of a chain saw as I am not qualified to teach the use of one.

Cut your log in half length ways.

Then you can prepare it on your band saw as I showed in the dvd.

I make up a jig/saw rest with two "V"s cut out of two lengths of wood. These are then fixed to a flat piece of 5 ply. The log can then be placed into this and the "V" stop it from moving. Or at least give it a stable base.

 

[skeetoids]

Hi Guys,

Adivce much appreciated.

I have no real urgency to cut the logs at the moment so i'll do some further research until I'm comfortable with the idea.

Many thanks,

Lee.

 

[mark sanger]

Hi Guys,

Adivce much appreciated.

I have no real urgency to cut the logs at the moment so i'll do some further research until I'm comfortable with the idea.

Many thanks,

Lee.

Lee

I have a set of pictures that go through the process for cutting up and making a cherry bowl.

if they are of any use I will email them to you.

If you do want them then I can get them to you early next week as I am busy this weekend.

I also have an some info on how to orientate the log so that you can achieve grain patterns. I am still working on this but once I have finished the drawings I will be adding it to my web site along with projects which will be free to down load.

 

[skeetoids]

Thank you Mark.

PM sent.

 

[andersonec]

If you have minimal experience with chain saws and have borrowed one then find a local saw mill and get them to do it.

 

[mark sanger]

umm I have found them a bit quicker than anticipated.

I always cut 5-6 inches off of the end of the log if it is not freshly cut. This is done to get rid of any shakes/fine cracks.

I will post the pics as below bit if you want to know anything else just ask but the pictures may get you started.

These pictures are old and my workshop is tidier now, but not much

If you cut them cross grain as here you will get much more interesting grain but they will move more cross grain then end grain. They are also easier to turn cross grain than end/parallel grain.

keep the central line of the bowl over the pith line. This way the bowl will warp/move equally both sides. The outer edges will always bow/move down away for the pith.



any questions just ask or give me a ring.

 

[mark sanger]

Note the pith is included in one of the photos and has torn out. This is because it is so weak.

I have on the next pic turned the pith away and I normally remove around 10mm

In relation to cutting down./processing the log. The method I have shown here is the most simple.

But you can alter this with experience to get a different grain orientation in the wood.

 

[andersonec]

One more tip, The best way to store logs is to seal the ends, PVA will do if you do not have any end seal, and store your logs stood up on their ends, they will dry more uniformly and splitting will be minimal.

 

[gasmansteve]

Just a bit off topic but like the snazzy web site Lee . Must checkout that `Photographers Utopia and Wix website builder` :lol: :lol:
Steve

 

[skeetoids]

Cheers Steve, much appreciated

 

[OldWood]

Lee
Don't know if you read my thread on Processing a Beech Tree, but I'm asking much the same sort of questions as you. I'm only half a dozen miles away (Kirknewton) and although self taught have something like 20 years experience in chain saw use, and have a 22" blade machine.

By the way, you should never borrow a chain saw - they are too dangerous a machine to use without knowing it's full history. If there is a problem while you are using it and you suffer, your friend is laying himself open to a claim due to lack of machine maintenance, etc.

PM me if you are interested in meeting up.

Rob

 

[mark sanger]

Hi Lee

Further to my last few posts.

The only other thing to know really for processing logs is how to reduce the amount of movement within the blank and to get the best figuring out of the log.

The easiest way is as shown here which is known as through sawn. This is the easiest for a small log but as with everything there is an offset.

The offset to the ease of processing is that flat boards or blanks cut in this way will warp the most of all processing cuts. The wood as said earlier will always warp away from the pith.

This warping can be taken into account when roughing the bowl by understanding about the amount of movement that you can expect to occur. Simply as a mean measurement native woods move 8% tangentially. So if you took an 8 inch ash log and left it in the round it would crack from the pith outwards and you would fine that the size if the split at the outer edge would measure around 8% of the diameter of the log dependant upon the wood.

For the best figuring and the least amount of movement quarter sawn is the best option. The offset with this is that it is not worth doing it on a small log as you will end up with a lot of wastage and pieces you can not use.

Quarter sawn is where the log is cut perpendicular to the pith taking a quarter of the log in sections.


Once processed you can rough it taking the mean measurement of movement as 8% in cross grain. So by leaving the wall thickness 10-15% equal all the way down the walls of the bowl and into the base you will greatly reduce the chance of any cracking, especially if you season with the plastic bag method.


with experience of roughing and learning about the different movement rates for the woods you will be able to process the logs in the best way to suit your requirements and get the best figuring.

 

[CHJ]

........with experience of roughing and learning about the different movement rates for the woods you will be able to process the logs in the best way to suit your requirements and get the best figuring.

There is a copy of an old publication (in pdf form) on my site under "Projects and Aids" that gives a guide to expected grain patterns and some shrinkage information.