Cutting cornice for kitchen cabinets

[mister henderson]

Can anyone point me to a tutorial anywhere on the internet, maybe a video even, on how to carry out this interesting task. Never had to do it before. I've got a Nobex mitre saw but am thinking about buying a power mitre saw. Would I need one with a laser? I notice most of the more expensive ones don't have them

Thanks in anticipation

 

[Argee]

A Nobex, especially one with a nice new blade, is all you should need. It's probably got indents for the popular angles (45 and 22.5 degrees are all you'll probably use), plus an "anywhere" position for something "not quite normal."

Don't forget to make sure that you've got the cornice up the right way, especially if you've got upper and lowers to do. Most people underestimate the amount they need by measuring and ordering just that amount, whereas cutting mitres uses up more than the finished short length, so add at least 10% for safety.

If the cornice is to overhang the carcass, allow for that when cutting your first angle - i.e., don't mark along the angle and cut that - it'll be short. When marking, be SURE you know which is the waste side when you cut. It will only make a very small difference with a Nobex, but it will notice if you try to cheat it with filler.

I'm sure others will have more tips for you, so hang on for them. Of course, if you'd like to buy a nice new tool, don't let me dissuade you!

Ray.

 

[mister henderson]

Thanks Argee.

When I've attempted this before, part of the probelm is knowing where to measure to/from etc. If I mount the cornice in the saw with the bit the is going to be fixed to the cabinet, on the base of the saw, the bit where the blade touches the top edge of the cornice is where my kmakr needs to be. Problem is, how to I get that information there from where I've marked it on the underside after offering it up on the cabinet?

Also, I may have to do a quite a bit of this so the powered saw is a virtual necessity, especially as I imagine I might be able to use it to trim off a slight overlength? (nfg on the Nobex due to the blade bending)

 

[Argee]

..... how do I get that information there from where I've marked it on the underside after offering it up on the cabinet?

If you transfer the mark on the underside to the rear (innermost) edge of the cornice with a square, then line that mark up with the centre of the saw table you should be fine. Try it on a piece of scrap first.

You make a good point about trimming off just a hair, which - as you say - the Nobex is not well known for.

Ray.

 

[Digit]

The powered option has one big advantage over the hand version, you can start with the cornice over long and then 'nibble' it down to size.

Roy.

 

[Karl]

I have a Nobex - good for certain tasks, but not this one! The Nobex has another significant disadvantage - if the cornice has a small footprint (ie the area which sits on the bed) it is difficult to get a nice tight mitred joint, as the piece will be subject to small movements as you draw the blade to and fro.

I use a DW 703.

Cheers

Karl

 

[Anonymous]

hi would recomend using the mitre fast glue for glueing alot easier .
glue mitres first then fix to units any minor discrepencies can be hidden.
andy

 

[mister henderson]

Thanks for the replies so far, any thoughts on whether or not a laser would be worth having?

 

[Richardhw]

Andy, mitre bond/fix/glue is excellent stuff, and yes I would fix as you said. try on some off cuts if you haven't used it before it's fast and unforgiving. I once saw a memo saying not to use it on some foil wrapped cornices due to the solvent effect softening the vinyl, have to say I have never come across that problem though.

Mister Henderson, If you are buying a saw for cornices check out the max cutting depth, some of the cornices need a mighty big blade if you want to cut it in one.

 

[Digit]

Unless it's a two laser model forget it! The ones that I have tried always drop you in it if you cut on the 'wrong' side of the laser. There's one on my jig saw, the blade goes one way the laser goes another. :roll:

Roy.

 

[George_N]

I have a Nobex - good for certain tasks, but not this one! The Nobex has another significant disadvantage - if the cornice has a small footprint (ie the area which sits on the bed) it is difficult to get a nice tight mitred joint, as the piece will be subject to small movements as you draw the blade to and fro.

I use a DW 703.

Cheers

Karl

The ability to "creep up" on a line with a power mitre saw makes it a must for this job. My local B&Q still have the DW 703 for £169...great value for money.