Cutting Acrylic
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undergroundhunter
Established Member
I have used my router on the slowest speed to cut plexi-glass, I was just really careful not to say in one spot too long.
Matt
Matt
xy mosian
Established Member
One of my first tasks, in my first job, involved cutting plastic. My boss said "You're a woodworking type. Cut a hole in this plastic cabinet for this loudspeaker." So off I go and very carefully mark out the 8" diameter circle then slowly, to be accurate, cut out the disc with a Black & Decker jigsaw. As if by magic when I had cut all the way around ... no hole.
The blasted plastic had welded itself together behind the saw blade. Fortunately only I knew, until now of course.
have fun.
xy
The blasted plastic had welded itself together behind the saw blade. Fortunately only I knew, until now of course.
have fun.
xy
andersonec
Established Member
If all else fails, mark your circle, drill small holes close together around the inside of your circle, cut and then file the edge smooth.
Andy
Andy
I would drill one small hole, thread a coping saw blade through and cut it by hand. Fairly coarse teeth are best but the material is thin, so a stock blade should be right. Cutting by hand should avoid the melting/welding problem.
Myfordman
AKA 9Fingers
Optimum tooth pitch with have three teeth in contact at all times.
MM
MM
blackrodd
Established Member
I used to cut customers orders for perspex with the 30" bandsaw. (Is this the same stuff)?
The stuff I've cut since, i have found, once you get the coping or fine bladed jigsaw cutting, keep moving at all costs as it seems to crack or splinter when it has cooled, even when taped with masking tape.
Regards Rodders
The stuff I've cut since, i have found, once you get the coping or fine bladed jigsaw cutting, keep moving at all costs as it seems to crack or splinter when it has cooled, even when taped with masking tape.
Regards Rodders
Lons
Established Member
I was in the plastics industry for 7 years as branch manager of a plastics distributor including ICI perspex and we regularly cut and formed actrylic and many other semi finished plastics for point of display customers, signmakers and engineering companies etc. Needless to say, I have a lot of scraps and offcuts still which are of great use :wink:
There are a number of ways to cut it but it depends on the thickness of the acrylic. I personally wouldn't use water as that was not an advised method in my day though things may well have changed.
First - how do you know it's "plexiglas"? There are several other plastics it could be clear ABS, polycarbonate, polystyrene or pvc for example and all have different properties and cut slightly differently. Some are soft, others very brittle.
If very thin it's possible to score and cut but if you have limited tools then the advice to drill small holes all around is good, you can then carefully file it clean.
You could buy a 120mm hole cutter for about £10 - 15 or a really cheap set and use on slow speed drill (whatever you do put a flat bit of chipboard or similar under for support or it can crack.
You can definately cut with a jigsaw but only if a variable speed model and on slow speed (I've done it many times) but best to support and cut through the support as well. I use a fine blade BTW as coarse can chip and crack the plastic.
A scroll saw works beautifully
An expanding wood bit also - slow and careful. Ideally cut part way then turn over and cut from the other side as well.
If you break it, providing it's flat sheet then it's not expensive to replace.
As an aside - make sure you wear safety specs as the swarf will be statically charged, will stick to everything and will be sharp. Not advisable to get some in your eyes.
Just the benefit of my experience - others will do it differently and it's 2o years since I was in the business.
cheers
Bob
There are a number of ways to cut it but it depends on the thickness of the acrylic. I personally wouldn't use water as that was not an advised method in my day though things may well have changed.
First - how do you know it's "plexiglas"? There are several other plastics it could be clear ABS, polycarbonate, polystyrene or pvc for example and all have different properties and cut slightly differently. Some are soft, others very brittle.
If very thin it's possible to score and cut but if you have limited tools then the advice to drill small holes all around is good, you can then carefully file it clean.
You could buy a 120mm hole cutter for about £10 - 15 or a really cheap set and use on slow speed drill (whatever you do put a flat bit of chipboard or similar under for support or it can crack.
You can definately cut with a jigsaw but only if a variable speed model and on slow speed (I've done it many times) but best to support and cut through the support as well. I use a fine blade BTW as coarse can chip and crack the plastic.
A scroll saw works beautifully
An expanding wood bit also - slow and careful. Ideally cut part way then turn over and cut from the other side as well.
If you break it, providing it's flat sheet then it's not expensive to replace.
As an aside - make sure you wear safety specs as the swarf will be statically charged, will stick to everything and will be sharp. Not advisable to get some in your eyes.
Just the benefit of my experience - others will do it differently and it's 2o years since I was in the business.
cheers
Bob
rafezetter
Troll Hunter
You can get adjustable cutters for a drill that is essentially a spindle, a long adjustable arm, with a knife on the end, if you used one of these on slow speed it would be the same as cutting with a stanley blade, which is less destructive than a toothed powered circle cutter.
http://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/taming-the-circle-cutter-the-tool-i-love-to-hate
http://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/taming-the-circle-cutter-the-tool-i-love-to-hate
