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Ah, that makes more sense, the entire top is MDF, not just the centre piece. what is "strining"? also when you rounded the edges, did you not find the join between the veneer and edging was visible? or did you somehow match the grains?
 
Hi Dave, no the top has a centeral panel of mdf and then solid ash lippings which are biscuit jointed to the mdf panel, then veneered with the cherry and ash over the whole top to the edge, the stringing is that ebony line invetween the cherry and the ash veneer on the top, its routed around the join then tapped in with a small pien hammer, it was about 2mm wide by 2mm deep
Hope that explaines it
Dave
 
wcndave":ov42r1cu said:
If you create your own veneers, of about 2-3mm thick, do you still think there would be some movement issues?
I do that all the time now on pieces that I make. Once down on the substrate, there are no movement issues...in fact I've just been planing a piece of elm veneer to size - Rob
 
worsley947 said:
These are a few projects that I have completed lately, your comments please
First up is my exam peice a bedside table in Ash and Cherry

CabinetMaking014.jpg


Nice work... but the knobs really kill such a simple piece... (Are they energy efficient light bulbs?)

Russ
 
Ha Ha russ, no not light bulbs but solid frosted glass and brass
They only cost me a £1 each and I like them :D
Dave
 
Sorry I was just going to comment on the knobs, I agree with Russ.
Otherwise beautifully made. I could not get near that.
 
woodbloke":1to1msr6 said:
wcndave":1to1msr6 said:
If you create your own veneers, of about 2-3mm thick, do you still think there would be some movement issues?
I do that all the time now on pieces that I make. Once down on the substrate, there are no movement issues...in fact I've just been planing a piece of elm veneer to size - Rob


I realise this is an old thread, but dodgy advice is still dodgy advice.

Saw cut veneers of 2 or 3mm thick are too thick to be laid on a sheet goods ground, you can get away with thick veneers by laying onto a solid wood ground, but not onto ply or MDF.

The problem is differential movement between the glue face and the show face, if the veneer is thicker than about 1.5mm you risk micro-cracking, minute little fissures that open up all over the show face surface, split the finish, and become filled with dust and grime. Opinions vary as to what is the optimum thickness for saw cut veneers, an exhaustive study at Parnham concluded 1.0-1.2mm, but some American makers did their own tests and said up to 1.5mm is okay for temperate zone hardwoods. No serious maker AFAIK recommends thicker than 1.5mm.
 

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