clear liberon beeswax with turpentine

[vinnie_chip]

Hi everyone, I am starting a project this weekend and would like any tips, advise, etc on the finish I ' think' I might use. The project is a burr elm and rippled sycamore mirror, I have seen someone finish sycamore with clear beeswax and liked the fact it barely changed the colour. Would this finish alone be enough protection for the wood? Any tips on how to apply it into the burr areas? There will be areas on the elm where the natural edge will be on show so might struggle applying the wax to these areas with a rag. Can I brush it into these areas? Sorry for all the questions...

 

[vinnie_chip]

It will be similar to this one I made. (Burr elm in the middle with a rippled sycamore frame).

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

You might want to seal it first with a spray on sealer so it gets in the natural crevices. You could use cellulose sanding sealer before the wax and that would be fine. After having seen Peter Raby just yesterday at my turning club, he reckons a shellac based SS is the optimum base coat for a wax finish, be it beeswax or carnuba etc.

I'm not sure shellac SS exists as an aerosol?? So cellulose would work. I use it in spray can form all the time for natural edge turning projects. If you miss a bit with the wax or are afraid it will leave residue, at least some sealer has made it in the crack and will enhance the natural beauty/bark/inclusion/natural edge etc

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

Lovely by the way....I particularly like the Dutchmen

 

[vinnie_chip]

Hi Bob, would the sanding sealer alter the colour in any way? I want the sycamore to stay as light as possible..

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

No it's a clear finish but of course it will make the grain "pop out" in exactly the same way as if you wiped the surface with water. To that extent it has a mildly darkening effect, as does any finish that brings out the figure of the grain. Neither clear beeswax nor any of the sanding sealers (shellac, acrylic or cellulose) will have any significant darkening effect.

 

[vinnie_chip]

I decided to use osmo polyx oil on the elm before assembly then the wax to the sycamore. Has anyone had experience using this wax? I tested on some scrap and it doesn't seem to spread very well.. do I have to warm the wax before applying? Any advise would be great, thanks.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

I've used Osmo polyx Oil on a friends oak flooring but not yet on turnings or furniture. It's generally considered to be quite a durable and hardwearing finish as its blend includes carnuba amongst others. It's also pretty expensive but I found it went quite far on the oak flooring (no end grain of course).

My attitude to finishes I'm yet to have experience with is to test them on scraps and go right through the process of 2-3 coats with appropriate drying times and denibbing if necessary and just see. I know its time consuming but its usually the quality that's driving my decision. May take up to a week to test but out of respect for the piece, that doesn't bother me.

There is a "spin off" from the Osmo folks - its a product called Treatex and apparently one of the guys from Osmo floated off and produced it then set his own competitor up. The finishing guru at our turning club reckons he had dishwashed a bowl finished with it 18 times so far and its as good as new. Personally, I'll believe that when I've done it myself but its a pretty bold marketing claim and the finish was certainly pleasing enough (and clear). I've bought some but again not had a chance to try it yet.

 

[vinnie_chip]

I've used polyx oil on a number of items , it gives a good finish, good stuff! I haven't used beeswax before so that is what I could do with advise on, cheers.

 

[vinnie_chip]

this is the elm after 2 coats of polyx..

 

[marcros]

Wow. A lovely piece there.

 

[vinnie_chip]

Nearly there... just got to chop the bowties in then apply the beeswax to the frame (inside of the frame was waxed prior to assembly). oh.. and put the mirror in!

 

[mrpercysnodgrass]

Hi Vinnie, as bob said you will need to seal/prime your timber first otherwise any wax you apply will just sink into the grain. You can use just about anything to prime, danish oil, shellac, varnish or cellulose. My choice would be shellac sanding sealer because it is clear, goes on easily and sands very well.
As far as wax goes I would avoid beeswax unless it is blended with about 40% carnuba, and even then it can remain sticky. Renaissance wax would be my favored wax, it is clear and has a much higher melting point than beeswax so will not show finger prints.
The best way to apply wax to uneven or moulded surfaces is to get a new cheap 1" decorators brush and cut about 1/3 off the bristles you can then use it to scrub the wax into nooks and crannies or burrs.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_ ... Caps%2C220

 

[vinnie_chip]

Cheers Mr P

 

[Andy crichton]

For applying wax I tend to make a simple bain marie - hot water in a poly paint kettle and bob the wax container in there till it goes very soft, then it will apply easily.

 

[vinnie_chip]

Nice one Andy

 

[vinnie_chip]

This is after oiling the elm with 2 coats of osmo polyx oil and waxing the sycamore with 2 coats of clear liberon beeswax with turpentine. just have to add the mirror and its finished.. thoughts anyone? (good and bad) :wink: