Bradson hand pillar drill restoration

[MusicMan]

Here's my new restoration project, a Bradson No. 5 pillar drill with 2 speeds and auto advance. Lovely design. I don't generally repaint my old machine tools as I like to see where the paint has been rubbed thin by decades of machinists, but this one hasn't got such identifiers so I think it will get the full makeover in original colours (inspired by http://vrestorations.blogspot.co.uk/201 ... g-off.html).

I haven't used a hand pillar drill before so comments are welcome from anyone more expert on what to look out for or any defects they see in the machine. It generally looks very good and works smoothly though the auto advance mechanism is sticking a little and needs investigation.

Keith

 

[wallace]

I like it in its bare cast. What kind of age would that be then? I've always fancied one of those high precision drills which run off a little flat belt.

 

[MusicMan]

I'll see what it looks like when I've cleaned the oil before finally deciding. I guess it is about 1910, but have no evidence. I was hoping someone here had an annotated and illustrated set of catalogues of the Bradson company .... Bugbear?

I have also just got one of those little precision drills, albeit with a round belt. Not fitted a motor yet. It's a Wumra Rathenow, from the German optics industry and already restored. Couldn't resist it, and it will be very useful for my musical instrument repairs. Don't have a picture yet but will post one soon.

 

[Bod]

There are 2 screws, that must not be touched!
1 is in the ratchet cog at the top. Other is in the low speed driven gear at the bottom.
These are square ended, which engage with the slot in the advance screw, and quill.
If they need removing, it is the last job, after all other stripping.

Bod

Ed to add. 3rd photo shows top screw.

 

[MusicMan]

Thanks, Bod, just the sort of info I was looking for. I think it might need complete stripping to make it run perfectly. Do you have a recommended order of dismantling? I'm an engineer, but it's always best not to work blind!

Keith

 

[Mike.S]

I keep admiring these when they crop up on ebay but, so far, none have appeared in my locality at a fair price! Just as well as I should be disposing of surplus tools, not acquiring more

This one looks in good order and I shall follow any further posts of your restoration with interest.

 

[AndyT]

I know it's all a matter of personal taste, but I agree with Wallace that it looks great as it is - it seems to be entirely rust free, and has just aged gracefully for a century or so. While I like the shiny repaint jobs which Wallace does on his old Wadkin gear, the example you link to just looks over the top to me.
Your call of course, but I wouldn't want you to rush in with the fresh paint and regret it afterwards.

 

[TFrench]

Clean it up and give it a coat of boiled linseed. Much more character in it's working clothes!

 

[MusicMan]

Thanks for the views, guys. I'll clean it up and apply BLO and see how that looks. The garish red and green were its original working clothes of course, but one does wonder how long they lasted!

Keith

 

[Bod]

Generally, these things in my experience are just dry. Oil can and gentle working are all that's needed, unless they are very worn, then its either the scrap heap, or major re-engineering with making bushes and parts from scratch. Spares just don't exist.

Looking at the photos, the nut that should be on the depth wheel at the top is missing, or needs tightening. There's a gap between the advance screw and the thrust bearings, that needs taking up. the nut should turn at the chuck speed, but not drive the depth wheel around.

They are wonderfully useful machines, they go slower than any power drill, you can cut very large holes with a tank cutter, (in excess of 6 inch dia.) very gentle pressure (do not use the auto feed) most will take up to 1/2 inch (13mm) drills, some even bigger black smith drills.
The auto feed mechanism can be too powerful, if the drill doesn't cut, the pressure created will bend/brake something!

Bod

 

[MusicMan]

Thanks again Bod. Here's a pic of the top of the depth wheel. There is one nut in there but sunk into the recess at this setting. I noticed that other drills I've seen have a locknut there. I noticed the gap between the advance screw and the thrust bearings but was not sure of its correct setting. You explained it nicely.

It actually has been kept well oiled/greased and things run fairly well, just some slight stiffness once per rev that is dragging the advance ring round when i don't think it should be dragged, and the pawl mechanism isn't doing its stuff. Quite possibly the adjustment you describe will sort this out . I don't think the wear is too bad, but I have lathe/miller and can make bushings etc if needed.

I may get back to you again if I get flummoxed!

cheers, Keith

 

[MusicMan]

Here is the WIP...



Bod, I'd be grateful for your advice again. With the advance wheel removed, here is the nut that needs tightening, first with gravity doing its job:



and next with the chuck/quill pushed up:



I take it that the nut should be screwed in till the chuck is raised to this position but with the clutch slipping?

The nut appears to be a square-threaded collar, is this correct, and should it have a lock nut? There would be room for it in its correct position.

The chuck is missing its set screw:



but this does not appear to be a big deal as it seems like an interference fit - no movement on moderate use of a puller!

Thanks

Keith

 

[Bod]

On the assumption that photo 1.jpg is with the chuck pushed up.
Then a washer large enough to cover the advance screw, and a lock nut, adjusted to allow the thrust bearings to rotate freely. The advance wheel will have to be just subflush of the advance screw, ie the washer, lock-nut and allen bolt will all be just above the hand wheel, and will rotate at chuck speed, whilst the wheel is stationary.

Bod

PS. If you knock out any pins, beware they may be tapered, and will only come out one way, also the pin holes are handed, the parts will only go back together one way only!! Use only a small "toffee" hammer! Heavy hits are a sign that it's WRONG.

 

[MusicMan]

Thanks again, Bod. Yes, photo 1 is with the chuck pushed up. I don't think that is an allen bolt at the top. I can see threads inside the socket, the 'shank' has square threads and I can't see a hexagon socket. But anyway, you've told me the principles of what I am aiming for and the criterion for successful adjustment. Is the wheel kept stationary by the pawl or by the setting of the clutch alone?

Thanks re the pin warning. I've only removed one pin so far and measured both ends before (gently) hitting anything!

Keith

 

[Benchwayze]

I like it in its bare cast. What kind of age would that be then? I've always fancied one of those high precision drills which run off a little flat belt.

I wondered if that was why the crank-wheel was so large and wide; to accomodate a belt drive, with a clutch of course?
I dunno. Jus' thinkin'. :?

 

[MusicMan]

I wondered too, but the wheel is not crowned as it would need to be for a flat belt; more slightly tapered to one side, so the belt would fall off. A crowned metal tyre could have been added of course.
Keith

 

[Bod]

My father had one of this type of drill running off a vee belt, for many years.
The motor and lay shaft had multi speed pulleys, then a vee belt running over the standard flat fly wheel, tensioned by the weight of the motor.
Once set up, never came off.
Couldn't raise or lower the drill head, without setting up again.

Bod

 

[Hedgewolf]

Hi - I'm new to this forum, which I found while looking for help with my Bradson no.5.

I was given this beautiful machine by a friend who has great faith in my ability to bring it back to its former glory. Unfortunately, apart from the over-painted finish which needs dealing with, there is a slight bend in the threaded shaft of the chuck. Can anyone point me in the right direction for information on how to go about stripping the beast down, so I stand some chance of getting the threaded part repaired or replaced?

Thanks a lot, hope the festivities have been good to you all!

 

[Rhyolith]

I am so jealous, have wanted one of these for ages! There is one in my local junk shop, but they want £110 for it :shock:

I have often wondered how 2 speed mechanism works, as the only one I have had real life access to (above) was completed seized up so wasn't very enlightening. I look forward to more posts on this one

I assume the cast bits are iron? I have often wondered if cast iron tools could be finished in the same way as cast iron skillets by baking them in vegetable oil. It provides a pretty good all round finish on the pans and I cannot think why its wouldn't work on tools... would the heat damage them (170 degrees C)?

 

[MusicMan]

I have got distracted from this project by illness and other things but will post more when I get back to it.

The 2 speed mechanism works by engaging the upper or lower bevel gear. There is a lever to position it in either place.

It does all need to be aligned and tightened correctly for the device to work properly.

Yes it is cast iron, and I would not risk heating it (distortion possibility, and fire risk), but I learned from this thread that BLO (boiled linseed oil but not really boiled!) gives a very nice, similar finish. Not to be used on cookware, though!

Keith