Bowl gouge question - handle size on Sorby and Hamlet

[Arutha]

My bowl gouge is a Hamlet 3/8" that I purchased three or so years ago. It's a good tool, but I think the handle is a bit too thick, so I'm thinking of replacing it (or re-turning the handle). I also think that removing the finish on the handle would go a long way to making it more comfortable. I like oiled finishes.

As I have since switched to buying Robert Sorby tools, I'm curious about how the Sorby bowl gouge handles compare to the Hamlet one.

I have two tools by Hamlet, the mentioned bowl gouge, and a roughing gouge. Both have the same handle - feels large and thick (and quite long). Much larger than any handle on my other lathe tools. But I know bowl gouges need longer handles, so I haven't thought that much about it. However, yesterday I was turning several bowls and I feel that I'm not completely comfortable with the thick handle.

I'm not in the shop now, but I had a look on the web:

Hamlet HCT083 3/8" Bowl Gouge. 14" handle
Sorby 3/8" Bowl Gouge. 23" handle RS-842LH

Interesting to see that the Sorby handle is 9" longer for the same size gouge. I haven't been able to find a photo with both of them. Has anyone compared the handles?

 

[Grahamshed]

I think the width, or thickness, of the handle is down to your hand size. mine are like hams and the handle fits fine . The length, to my mind at least, is almost irrelevant. The long handle on the Sorby is donated by the LH at the end of the serial number so there is almost certainly a shorter version. The LH version is possibly aimed at the American market where they seem to prefer longer ones. The one certain fact is that you need a lot more room around the lathe to turn a bowl with a tool that long.

 

[CHJ]

Select a Handle form that you prefer to work with and make your own to same pattern.

A few of my personal thoughts regarding my preferred style.

1. Too Slim a handle leads to finger/palm discomfort due to tightness of grip, and increased spot pressure on hand.
2. Longer handles are necessary for most folks that turn with tool cushioned against hip and use body swing to control flow.
3. A Short handle is better for me on gouge used for bottom of bowl internals. (suits the way I hold them)
4. Think seriously about buying just the steels and turn own handle to suit the task you wish to use it for.
5. Gouges used for push action consider turning beads on back end portion or stepped ridges on stem, reduces grip strength required (less hand grip pressure)
6. Handle length and weight distribution can have a big effect on tool balance in the hand. Pick up samples of same size gouge from different suppliers at a show and compare how they feel to you in the hand.
7. I don't like the form of Sorby handles. (I have some, it's just me.)

 

[Phil Pascoe]

"2. Longer handles are necessary for most folks that turn with tool cushioned against hip and use body swing to control flow."
I had to pick up a tool to try that - I don't think I've ever done anything that caused the handle to touch my hip. I must be one of the ones that are not "most people". :lol: Maybe that's a reason I prefer shorter fatter handles.


(I realise that bowl gouges are a bit different)

 

[Paul Hannaby]

As long as the handle is long enough for you to be in control you can make it any shape you like.

When I make handles, I don't put any finish on them because I prefer the natural wood surface. I don't bother to sand the handles either, the finish is straight from the tool.

 

[Spindle]

Hi

I think you'll find your conclusion that the LH version has a handle 9" longer than that of the standard incorrect - I'd suspect the difference to be more like 4 or 5 inches.

I think you'd be better to re-equip your existing gouge with a handle that suits your needs.

Regards Mick

 

[chipmunk]

As long as the handle is long enough for you to be in control you can make it any shape you like.

+1
It also depends how aggressive you want to be with your cuts and some of this will also be lathe dependent. Low power lathes can be easy to stall if your cuts are too aggressive and for lathes with a small capacity over the bed short handled bowl gouges can also be beneficial when hollowing.

Jon

 

[Castanea]

And making handles is fun - as a woodturner I like being able to turn something I can use in my woodturning. I use ash or cherry. If it's wet and goes a bit oval it's not the end of the world so I use whatever free wood it to hand. Ashley Isles sell ferules or you can just use copper water pipe. You can experiment and when you turn something you don't like knock it off and make another which you do like.

 

[Mark Hancock]

I suspect the 23" referred to in the opening post is actually the total tool length. In my experience Hamlet bowl gouge handles tend to be longer than Sorby ones.

As has already been mentioned handle length and design really comes down to personal preference and how you turn. As I turn with my body (handle held to body) and on swivel headstock lathes I prefer longer handles. For those that turn across the bed bars shorter handles are needed.

 

[Arutha]

Thanks for all replies!

I will try to remove the handle on the bowl gouge and turn it to a size that fits me better. That's if it's possible to remove it without breaking it. Otherwise, I have some beech that I'll use for a new handle.

I have also ordered a few new Sorby tools without handles, so I'll get to turn several new handles soon.