Best cheap protective for mild steel

[Bm101]

Been chucking together some clamp heads on 50x25x3mm box mild steel. It occurs to me that this could start to rust etc fairly rapid. Also I want to protect it from woodglue and so on. Is shellac a viable coating? Id really appreciate suggestions for a cheap lasting and hard wearing finish that resists glue and the like. Doesnt need to look nice just work. The steel is fairly 'blacked up' would I need to rub it down with wire wool, wet n dry a little before applying?
Thanks guys. Sorry to start a thread just for this.
Regards
Chris

 

[No skills]

I don't know if you'll get cheap and hard wearing, its normally one or the other. You'll prolly need to degrease the steel a bit before any sanding or paint, bit of white spirit or cellulose thinners will do the trick.

I'd be tempted to grab a cheap rattle can of whatever is closest and use that resigned to the fact its gonna chip and wear a bit with use.

FWIW

 

[dickm]

Rather than degreasing and trying to attach a surface coating firmly, why not use spray wax (or basically any sort of wax) and repeat as necessary? Would also help the clamp head move more easily.

 

[woodpig]

Rather than degreasing and trying to attach a surface coating firmly, why not use spray wax (or basically any sort of wax) and repeat as necessary? Would also help the clamp head move more easily.

That's what I'd do. Don't bother cleaning up the steel too much, just rub some wax on it. Renwax is good if you've got some.

 

[MCB]

Been chucking together some clamp heads on 50x25x3mm box mild steel. It occurs to me that this could start to rust etc fairly rapid. Also I want to protect it from woodglue and so on.
[snip]
Regards
Chris

You could try METAL GUARD ULTRA from Shield Technology

http://shieldtechnology.co.uk/toolcarep ... ering.html

I think Tilgear (at Standon just off the A120 between A10 and Bishop's Stortford) stock it.

MCB

 

[AndyT]

Just use boiled linseed oil. It sticks nicely to steel in any condition and resists glue. It will stop rust stains from your clamps marking wood. A 500ml bottle is £3.50 in our local hardware shop and a little goes a long way. Wipe or brush it on, wipe off the surplus. It may help to add 10% turps or equivalent.
I've used this on my sash clamps for years, and for quick protection on old/ restored tools.

But shellac sticks to just about everything so use that if it's what you have got already.

 

[RobinBHM]

Its quite easy to sand down sash clamp bars with an orbital sander then apply some wax yo them.

If you sand to a fine grit to start, the fairly shiny surface will be easier to keep clean.

I dont think I would bother with the shellac, itll get scratched quickly.

 

[Bm101]

As always, thank you very much guys! Brilliant.

 

[Bm101]

Just use boiled linseed oil. It sticks nicely to steel in any condition and resists glue. It will stop rust stains from your clamps marking wood. A 500ml bottle is £3.50 in our local hardware shop and a little goes a long way. Wipe or brush it on, wipe off the surplus. It may help to add 10% turps or equivalent.
I've used this on my sash clamps for years, and for quick protection on old/ restored tools.

But shellac sticks to just about everything so use that if it's what you have got already.

Thanks again Andy. You got what I was saying and nailed it, I don't have shellac I just had this vague notion I'd read about it for this. The inimitable Jacob probably. Just thought you might like to know I used 'Bessy' (remember that big a*se drill i bought?) for the first time to drill out the steel. I'm not one for naming tools or inanimate objects usually but this one deserves a name bit like a ship it deserves a name and a female one at that. It was a nice learning curve. Bit like the difference between a pole lathe and an electric. Took a little getting used to and a light touch. I found i had to operate the side wheel steady but fast and the hand wheel on the top in tiny increments. Makes sense I suppose given the drilling speed but despite the labour I must admit it was enjoyable. Too much incremental turn on the top wheel and the drill stalled. Ok... reverse and start again. Found I was listening as much as watching. After the third drillout I was producing nice little spirals of steel. What I also found was that at the bottom of its vertical range the drill would start to choke and the runout would increase. So. spanners out, lift the work piece and reduce the tolerances and it worked great again.

Im starting to see your fascination Andy.

Many regards mate as always.
Just thought you'd like to know. :wink:
Chris.

(bench is slowly coming on. More I do less I worry, easier it gets. Problem solving for the win.)

 

[AndyT]

Excellent Chris - it sounds fun!
And yes, you're right, it was a throwaway comment from Jacob that put me onto using linseed oil on metals. If you're out there listening, thanks Jacob!

 

[Bm101]

Yeh it was. I'm interested in the wax finishes too for my planes. keep learning.

 

[MCB]

Yeh it was. I'm interested in the wax finishes too for my planes. keep learning.

Shield Technology manufacturer a protective wax too.

I don't have any connection with that company but have used their products successfully. The rust remover RESTORE is brilliant and has produce results far in excess of my expectation

MCB

 

[Bm101]

I was put off a little by the price MCB tbh, purely because its been a rough month or two workwise. I've spent a bit of money but I haven't earned it. I didn't dream you were affiliated and youve never been anything less than a great help to me! I will definitely look into the products. I tend to keep my planes in a cupboard in the kitchen much to the tolerant bemusement of my mrs. I will look at the rust one (thanks) because I have a load of gear that could do with a clean, not least some of the old heads I just bought.
Many regards as always my friend
Chris

 

[MCB]

I was put off a little by the price MCB tbh, purely because its been a rough month or two workwise. I've spent a bit of money but I haven't earned it. I didn't dream you were affiliated and youve never been anything less than a great help to me! I will definitely look into the products. I tend to keep my planes in a cupboard in the kitchen much to the tolerant bemusement of my mrs. I will look at the rust one (thanks) because I have a load of gear that could do with a clean, not least some of the old heads I just bought.
Many regards as always my friend
Chris

Since you are local you are very welcome to come over to Ware and apply a little of the product to your tools and see how it works for you.

I've usually left the rusty stuff in Restore for a week or so (an ultrasonic bath helps too) but I'll show you the results of using it on items that were rusted solid.

If you send me your address off list, I'll send you an email to initiate the arrangements

MCB

 

[Bm101]

Emailed! Thanks.

 

[ColeyS1]

Liberon lubricating wax sounds just what you're after. just make sure to give it a good shake before each use. I used it on a router base today and it made the process so much easier. It's also good for machine beds making the timber glide much easier.
Coley

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

 

[siggy_7]

I've made some extension tables for my table saw out of black steel plate and I'm looking to seal and protect them, again is wax still the way forward? I had thought about a poly lacquer of some kind.

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[SpoonsbySven]

John Heisz did a (reasonably scientific) experiment comparing water-based polyurethane varnish (an ultra-thin wipe on-wipe off coating) and paste wax here: http://www.ibuildit.ca/ibuildit-forum/viewtopic.php?id=326

I'm no expert, and haven't tried myself, but the polyurethane seemed to work pretty well for him, and I'm tempted to give it a go.

Has anyone else tried this?

Cheers,
Sven