Bench Worktop

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Webby

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Hi i need some advice I am building a bench and would like some input as what to put on the top ..do i use two pieces of 18mm ply or 2 x 18mm mdf .....i was going to use damaged kitchen worktops (40mm) but they seem to appear in a blue moon here .......or is there an alternative all suggestions welcome

Thanks

Dave
 
I used 50mm or 2" thick Mdf, and it has stood up pretty well to a bit of use. I used 3000mm x 400mm offcuts that I got for free and just took a little time to make sure all the joints were nice and flush.
 
Similar, two sheets of 18mm MDF and a couple coats linseed oil to seal it. I nearly always have some non slip mat on it, same stuff used in car boots (Aldi)
Depending on which ply you get, 18mm Birch is very expensive and ordinary stuff has too many voids.

Andy
 
You might consider basing it (as I did) on a flush, interior fire door, 1/2 hour rated. These are about 44 mm thick with a solid core (so much the same as worktop), ply facing and softwood edging. Flat and heavy. Not too expensive (£44 delivered, from here, for example : http://www.directdoors.com/exterior...-fire-rated-flush-plywood-fire-door-hgb-p3183).

I bonded a layer of 12mm mdf on top, for extra weight and hardness - a total thickness of 56mm.
 
Using MDF is a good idea and for once its cost effective. I have used hardboard as the final cover held down by small screws.

But using MDF you have to consider the sag factor. So the usual bench frame will allow the MDF to sag in the middle and possibly upto the edges. The solution is to put in a few rails across the frame to support the MDF or at least a central dorsal spine rail .

Al
 
3 layers of 18m mdf (with beech lipping) on top of 25mm veneered chipboard desk top - not sagged yet. The chipboard does not reach all the way to edge of the MDF hence it is not visible

DSCN7220.jpg


cheers

Andy
 
Thats a nice bench Andy =D>

think i am going for 25mdf and top it with a thinner material ...........what glue do i need to use

thanks all
 
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