Axminster Rip Fence upgrade

[Littleoldman]

I'm thinking of going with one of these. Any opinions. I have the Scheppach ts2000 table saw and I threw the fence that came with it many years ago. Wanted something better but because my saw doesn't have a cast iron top none of the good ones will work. And it's a lot cheaper than the incra.

 

[TFrench]

Theres a few on the axi site - I have the code no.100205 on my kity 419 - looks a pretty similar machine. I really rate it, its a big improvement.

 

[Neil S]

Why is a cast iron top needed? Is your top not have very good mounting options?
I built Steve Maskerys table saw fence for my ts200 and it's very good. I had to adapt the method of mounting with a couple of extra lengths of 50mm angle but I'm really pleased with the result.

Neil

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

 

[Littleoldman]

Thanks TFrench I'm going to look at the saw and compare it to mine. Neil S I wanted to get the incra fence, but I don't think it will work I'm waiting for a reply from them. I really don't want to spend that much money on that fence. I considered building one using angle iron but the fence would have weighed more than the saw! I'm going to check out Steve Maskreys (haven't come across him before) fence, can you point me in the right direction? Being honest I would get more satisfaction if I built my own.

 

[Eric The Viking]

I've just bought the system with the taller fence (102426) to put on my old TS 200. It's identical to the one mentioned above apart from having a taller, longer fence, and an extra, simple back rail to support the end of that. The construction makes it pretty easy to use something different as the actual fence if you wish, or fit a sacrificial one (long fences generally not being a wonderful idea'n'all, for safety reasons). The tall fence will also attach laying flat, which might be handy for some operations (but a shorter fence is always safer).

It would be nice if Axminster sold the smaller cross section fence as an option, because having both would be handy. But not essential...

... Looking at pics of your Sheppach on-line, I can't see why either of the two Axy aftermarket ones shouldn't fit easily and well. I have to say the instructions that came with mine were poor (unusual for Axminster!), but that's easily fixed with some careful measuring: You just make a pair of holes in the edge of the table (either tapped or through holes).

There are two angle brackets, which hold the rail for the carriage. The rail is easily detachable from the saw once set up, and it doesn't matter within reason where you choose to fit the brackets - anywhere along the edge of the table that suits you.

It's a bit more of a faff on the TS 200, as that has a flange on the front and back edges of the table (for fitting the rails for its own fence system). The flange gets in the way of the brackets. So I either get a hacksaw to it and cut notches in it where the brackets will drop down past it, or contrive something else.

On balance I'm pleased with it, but still mulling over the fixing options, but that is a TS200-specific problem.

E.

PS: It's a tall fence as it's really for resawing operations on a bandsaw. I'm fitting a second one to the bandsaw at the same time - bought two identical ones.

 

[Littleoldman]

Eric the Viking.
My saw has a removable aluminium section that holds the fence. When you remove this you are left with 4 fixed threaded nuts (don’t have a name for them to be honest). If I can position the brackets that come with the fence to these it would work. Best thing I can do is to visit Axminster’s Cardiff shop with photos and dimensions perhaps they’ll know if this saw is a candidate for a new fence. If I could only upload a photo!
John Lyn

 

[Steve Maskery]

Thank you Neil, glad you are pleased with it.

I'm going to check out Steve Maskreys (haven't come across him before)

Er, Hello

can you point me in the right direction?

I'm not allowed to promote my own stuff except by way of signature. So if you follow the link and find my DVD No. 10, it's on there.

Being honest I would get more satisfaction if I built my own.

Absolutely. It's a fraction of the cost, even with the price of the DVD, and rock solid. I made mine out of 50x25 box section, but if I were to make it again I'd use 75x50. Apart from that I would change nothing. No engineering skills required beyond sawing, drilling and tapping and even I can do that.

 

[Eric The Viking]

Eric the Viking.
My saw has a removable aluminium section that holds the fence. When you remove this you are left with 4 fixed threaded nuts (don’t have a name for them to be honest). If I can position the brackets that come with the fence to these it would work. Best thing I can do is to visit Axminster’s Cardiff shop with photos and dimensions perhaps they’ll know if this saw is a candidate for a new fence. If I could only upload a photo!
John Lyn

1. Steve's replied just above me. His fence is very solid, and very adjustable too.

2. For the Axminster aftermarket ones: you need threaded holes on the edge of the table around 24.5mm below the edge for #102426, or 23.5 mm for the shorter box section fence (#100205).

That's based on taking measurements from my fence and looking at the instructions PDF for #100205 on the Axminster site. They are slightly different because there are milled slots in the brackets that I have (for #102426), whereas the photos in the instructions for #100205 show simple 6.5mm (i.e. 6mm clearance) holes in the brackets for the rectangular short fence, not slots. That would mean get it right first time (no height adjustment, BUT my guess is both fences ship with slots now, as it would be silly to make two different parts. The brackets are aluminium, so even if you get 'only holes' you can still open them up with a rat's tail file if you need to. Ask Axminster which they ship - holes or slots.

If you haven't got the table thickness for this to work, it's not a showstopper. All you need are strong L-shaped brackets of the right dimensions that are drilled to fit the existing holes on your saw and 8mm on the horizontal part to take the clamping bolts under the fence rail. It's easy to measure the positions of both: The bottom of the rail (top of the L-bracket) needs to be roughly 66.75mm down from the table surface. How far back from the edge I haven't checked, but probably no more than 60mm (guessing this). Hole for clamping bolt prob. at 50mm.

HTH,

E.
PS: Download the instructions PDF before deciding what you want to do. I strongly suggest looking at Steve's system if you have the time to make it - rather good and the rails can be as long as you like, making handling sheet goods easier.

 

[Littleoldman]

Thanks Steve and Eric. Has anyone got a photo of Steve's fence? I want to see how much work/time is involved in making it. Not shy of work but I have a long list of must do's.
John

 

[Steve Maskery]

Hi John, I'll take a photo tomorrow. It's not a lot of work once you have assembled the bits and pieces together. As I said, it's drilling and tapping a few holes, then half an hour with a spanner and a screwdriver.

 

[Steve Maskery]

I promised a photo and then forgot and then forgot some more... Sorry.

The fence is the black assembly. Here it is fitted with my fine adjuster rip fence, I can move the fence by 0.1mm if I want to.

As you can see, it is all bolted together. I know that some people have welded theirs, but just like this it is rock-solid, as solid as the proper Xcalibur fence that came with the saw (seen on the right with my short rip fence). It is adjustable for square in all three dimensions, pitch, roll and yaw.

The main length is 50x25mm. If I were to make it again I would use taller section, 50mm or even 75mm, but apart from that I would change nothing.

HTH
Steve