Axminster faceplate ring

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sawdust maker

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Hi all. I have a Nova 2 chuck and would like to use an Axminster faceplate ring on it. The problem is that their rings are made with three different dovetails A B & C. Dose anyone know which will fit best? I have Axminster but they don't know.
 
Hi
I've got both chucks. I don't think the face plate ring will fit well on the nova chuck. The C ring might be the closest to the nova 50mm jaws but it's pretty close to the limit of their expansion. Can you not get a nova faceplate ring?
 
Thanks Delboy I think your suggestion might be the direction I should go. I looked at a Nova ring but they are so much more than any other.
 
sawdust maker":1au7ihyu said:
Thanks Delboy I think your suggestion might be the direction I should go. I looked at a Nova ring but they are so much more than any other.
i would double check by giving Ed a ring at Olivers Woodturning he is a great guy and good to deal with I am a happy customer as well as knowing him as we are in the same turning club
 
The Axminster Type C jaws have an external dovetail angle of 75 degrees, as shown by the drawing on their website.

The RP SC4 standard chuck jaws have a dovetail angle of 79.5 degrees - at least that is the angle at which the manual says the dovetail should be formed in the workpiece. The manual is available for download from their website, although you do need to log in.

Visually comparing the Sorby Patriot standard jaws with the SC4 standard jaws, the Patriot's appear to have a slightly greater angle, but I'm unable to measure it accurately, and the Sorby manuals give no information.

In wood, these differences probably make little difference, but may affect security when gripping a steel faceplate ring. Having said that, I've used a Sorby faceplate ring on RPSC4 jaws without experiencing any issues.

Duncan
 
To be honest, I've never felt the need for a faceplate ring over the years of turning, recesses or spigots being easy to make in the workpieces, or sacrificial layers glued on if needed on thinner pieces.

What do folk use them for, is it where you might want to repeat mount a piece.

I have used faceplates though with very large, heavy blanks where coach screws were wanted to guarantee security.
 
paulm":1hrzjc3b said:
To be honest, I've never felt the need for a faceplate ring over the years of turning, recesses or spigots being easy to make in the workpieces, or sacrificial layers glued on if needed on thinner pieces.

What do folk use them for, is it where you might want to repeat mount a piece.

I have used faceplates though with very large, heavy blanks where coach screws were wanted to guarantee security.

I use mine for the larger pieces where the jaws are just too small for the lump I want to turn I find it more secure than a mortice or tenon in these cases
 
I've got one and have used it to save a bit of time if making a few bowls - You can leave the chuck in place, fit the ring to the blank, onto chuck, then straight into shaping the outside and chucking point for reversing ready for inside.

It's not essential, just a time saver, I guess, though thinking about it, if the blank is too large for over bed turning, it is quicker than faceplate then chuck on the swivelled headstock.
 
gregmcateer":2sbcm03m said:
I've got one and have used it to save a bit of time if making a few bowls - You can leave the chuck in place, fit the ring to the blank, onto chuck, then straight into shaping the outside and chucking point for reversing ready for inside.

It's not essential, just a time saver, I guess, though thinking about it, if the blank is too large for over bed turning, it is quicker than faceplate then chuck on the swivelled headstock.

Lots of different ways I guess as usual. I just use a large forstner bit in the pillar drill to make a recess in the top of the bowl blank to take the normal "shark" jaws, mount on the lathe using that recess, turn the outside including the bottom spigot or recess, and then reverse onto that, no ring required, but you do need a large forstner bit and pillar drill I suppose ! :)
 
Duncan A":2xrz37hm said:
The RP SC4 standard chuck jaws have a dovetail angle of 79.5 degrees - at least that is the angle at which the manual says the dovetail should be formed in the workpiece.
Duncan

So, do we think the author of the manual is an experienced wood turner (or even the designer who spec'ed this!)
 
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