Avoiding sanding 'tearout' on figured maple

[Pabs]

making something that might become an olive tray or something...

asking some advice please!

just getting this roughness to the figured sections of maple

process was bandsaw (atta he'd photo of blade I'm using (6tpi 1/2inch but has quite deep set) to rough dimensions, No4 plane (its all I have atm) to exact dimensions then glued up and rough final dimensions, replaned, and sanded from 40 to to 80nto 120 but this roughness is present in all grades,the only time it is minimal is after planing where this sections smooth right out but too much i think for a decent finish.

maybe resembles fresh sawn end grain with like a 64 tpi blade? is that essentially the issue?

thanks!

 

[Pabs]

not to say I don't like it, just wondering if it's something to embrace or try sand out somehow!

 

[thetyreman]

I can recommend a card scraper, also if you've not tried it already move the cap iron as close as possible to the blade edge, ideally about 0.3mm, if that doesn't work then a scraper is needed just on the spot with tearout.

 

[--Tom--]

Surprised sandpaper is causing tear out, continue up the grits sanding with the direction of the grain. 120g is still quite coarse

 

[baldkev]

Maybe a shellack sanding sealer could help?

 

[profchris]

I'd sand to 240 or 320. And remember the end grainbof the curl sands slower than the long grain, so is left higher unless you use a hard sanding block.

But even then, finishing will likely raise the end grain in the figure so it feels rough again. I do what @baldkev suggests - a coat or two of shellac, lightly sand after each is dry, should fix it.

 

[Pabs]

thanks I'll try these things. really appreciate the advice!

 

[Ollie78]

Cabinet scraper is probably the answer.

It looks like you might have a split or void in the lighter coloured wood Running at a shallow angle.
As you sand deeper you are exposing it.
I have had this issue with oak before.

You get some thin superglue and a small nozzle, let some into the area with tear out and it will hopefully fill the void.
Add a bit of sawdust to the top layer of superglue. Then you can attack it with a sharp scraper.


Ollie

 

[Jacob]

Moving up the sand paper grades too quickly?
40 is heavy going! You have to remove all the 40 grit scratches with the 80 grit before you move on. Helps if you do them in a different direction so you can see which is which.
Then ditto with 120 and the 80 scratches. You can't remove 40 grit scratches with 120 grit. Well you could but it could take days!
Work through the grades but finish the previous grade completely.

 

[Pabs]

Cabinet scraper is probably the answer.

It looks like you might have a split or void in the lighter coloured wood Running at a shallow angle.
As you sand deeper you are exposing it.
I have had this issue with oak before.

You get some thin superglue and a small nozzle, let some into the area with tear out and it will hopefully fill the void.
Add a bit of sawdust to the top layer of superglue. Then you can attack it with a sharp scraper.


Ollie

Ollie thanks so much. that makes perfect sense and actually helps me visualise the stock better and work with the character of it. and I've kept my sawdust!

I did progress the reverse side, up to 320 and it was slightly better but I'll abandon this in favour of the CA glue and scraper!

@Jacob thanks. i think youre right I dont see sanding scratches but it might be tearing out the softer sapwood / defects. i havent gotten to grips with hardwood enough to appreciate how to sand it effectively. I'll add in some additional grits.

Thanks both.

 

[Pabs]

Cabinet Scraper did a great job, got some nice chatoyance too

 

[StilwellDesigns]

A well tuned cabinet scraper is definitely... oh I was too late, you've done it!


Good job!