Attaching Brass Feet to Copper Planter

[paulc]

Hello,

Can anyone advise me as to the options (other than welding) to securely re-attach these feet, which I think are brass, to this copper planter? I do have a MAPP blow torch and a soldering iron, if either are any use.

Any advice appreciated, Thanks

 

[Bm101]

JB Weld?
http://www.jb-weld.co.uk/j-b-weld-revie ... l-to-metal

ED: JB is relatively expensive I suppose but very good. If it's a one off job probably any 2 part epoxy would be ok? You might need to check for external conditions if it's for outside. I've used the liddl deals on evostick and also the little 'putty' tubes: you just roll the little tubes around a bit and good to go as a filler. Never had a failure. Might be worth looking for a putty type glue to bond the feet if they are uneven.
Colour is off but there's an example here and if the feet are underneath...
http://www.jb-weld.co.uk/j-b-weld-epoxy ... poxy-putty

 

[sunnybob]

You dont weld copper or brass, you solder.
Clean everything with wire wool till the metal is bright. Wipe grease over any area you dont want the solder to run to.
Use ordinary plumbers solder (try to get the older stuff that actuall includes lead and flux). If you cant find that then you need to apply a small smear of flux to the area to be soldered.

Heat the feet untill the solder runs all across the area you want the pot to attach to. then clean again and place the feet in position. heat the planter untill you see the solder run across the join. leave to cool, job done.

 

[Bm101]

Apologies for minor thread hijack.
Thanks Bob. Tip on grease is a new one to me as is the advice on heating the feet twice but makes perfect sense. Learnt summat both new and useful. Ta mate. Appreciated.
:wink:

 

[sunnybob]

The reason for "tinning" the feet first is to get a small layer of solder across the entire surface to be joined. If you try to feed solder in from the side you will get a large blob that will spread across the metal and look ugly.
But you DO NOT heat the feet twice.
Solder runs towards heat. Heat the feet twice and it will run all over the damn place.
Place the pot on the previously tinned feet (or upturned with the feet on top, whichever gets the feet in the final position) and heat the pot. When the pot is hot enough, you will see the solder run towards the pot. Immediately take the heat away.
Allow to cool for a few seconds, you will see the solder go from shiny to dull. Then you can quench in cold water and give a final clean up with wire wool.
In the old days of mouth operated blow lamps (early 60's in my case), we had tubs of soldering black, which was basicly soot mixed with grease. Smear that onto the surface and you could exactly control where the solder stuck

 

[lee celtic]

I too learned from this post.. Thanks SunnyBob..

The reason for "tinning" the feet first is to get a small layer of solder across the entire surface to be joined. If you try to feed solder in from the side you will get a large blob that will spread across the metal and look ugly.
But you DO NOT heat the feet twice.
Solder runs towards heat. Heat the feet twice and it will run all over the damn place.
Place the pot on the previously tinned feet (or upturned with the feet on top, whichever gets the feet in the final position) and heat the pot. When the pot is hot enough, you will see the solder run towards the pot. Immediately take the heat away.
Allow to cool for a few seconds, you will see the solder go from shiny to dull. Then you can quench in cold water and give a final clean up with wire wool.
In the old days of mouth operated blow lamps (early 60's in my case), we had tubs of soldering black, which was basicly soot mixed with grease. Smear that onto the surface and you could exactly control where the solder stuck

 

[Blockplane]

My mother has an identical planter

Emulsion paint, or plimsol blanco, is a less messy alternative to grease as a solder stop-off.

You might like to consider standing the trough in boiling water whilst working to reduce heat transfer/loss.

 

[sunnybob]

Not sure why you want to reduce heat transfer. You want extremely localised heat on the joint alone. The solder will keep running all the time the metal is hot enough to keep it liquid.
It would be better to use a very small flame on the joint and blow hard to cool it as soon as the joint is made.
I mentioned grease as I have much more of that available than paint (I'm not allowed paint).