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sunnybob

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I need a 2 page instruction sheet translated from greek to english.
I cant go to an electrician (obviously), all the shops are shut and I've tried typing in one word at a time into google but thats an impossible task.

If anyone has, I can copy the sheet and email them.
Or, if there are any electricians who know about wiring up a humidity switched bathroom 100 mm extraction fan.......
There is a terminal on the fan marked "T". No, its not an earth symbol.
On the drawing this goes to a circle with a diagonal cross inside, and then to neutral.
 

Distinterior

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I've fitted a few of this type of extractor fan Bob, and if I remember correctly it is for the Timer. It's designed to run on for an adjustable amount of time even after you have turned the fan off....
 

Rorschach

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Google translate app on your phone will do realtime character recognition and translation using the camera.
 

sunnybob

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Disinterior.... you mean like a remote timer? Dont have one of those.

Rorsach.... not on my phone it wont :roll: :shock:

Nev... I think I get it, theres a built in timer, and this is just to give an external lamp indication that its operating. So as I am not completely deaf (yet) and can hear if its running, I dont need the lamp, yes?

Excellent, ta.
 

sunnybob

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Heres my artistic rendition of the drawing.

I will be using a standard bathroom ceiling pull cord switch on it, I dont need anything else do I?
vent fan.jpg
 

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nev

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I would suggest that L and N are permanently supplied from isolating switch/ fused spur. T is then supplied with its live when you use the switch, so a Timed override is provided. The lamp may be optional.

So the fan has a permanent supply which allows it to switch on and off when the humidity level reaches the set point without human intervention, but you can override that by pulling switch cord which will then power the fan overriding the humidity sensor.

Usual disclaimers apply :)
 

sunnybob

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Nev, I dont want a light, and I dont want an extra timer or switch. My plan is to leave the pull switch on all the time, allowing the humidity control to start the fan and then let it run for 10 minutes. I understand all the adjustment pots for humidity and time, just confused over this extra switching which I dont want.
If I just connect live and neutral, is it going to run?
 

Richard_C

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I have a 2 pole isolator switch for mine. Like you, it's left to look after itself but if we get hot humid thunderstorm weather it can go a bit bonkers. You can overcome it by tweaking the humidity trigger point but that delays the startup. If we are going away for a week or few I turn it off, just being cautious I guess.
 

sunnybob

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Thats just what I wanted to hear. =D>
I love it when plan A actually works. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
 

sunnybob

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I think I've just made this redundant;

Refurbing the bathroom, I wanted the humidity sensing fan to help keep the mirror condensation free.
looking at the new mirror with led lights built in, I find that it has a heater to stop the mirror steaming up.

DOH! (hammer) (hammer)
 

nev

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sunnybob":60a1khvq said:
...
If I just connect live and neutral, is it going to run?
yes.

the switch is just a manual override.

EDIT:
The T live can also be taken from the existing light in the bathroom, so that when you turn the light on the fan comes on and then remains on for the timed period after turning the light off. Handy for removing odours.
But you do not need to use the T connection if you just want it to operate without human intervention of any kind.
 
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