Anyone got any experience with metal partitioning for wall?

[porker]

Hi,
I wondered if anyone here has any experience with metal partitioning like where to get it, what to buy and how easy it is to use?
The reason I am interested is that I am looking at fitting a log burner and the wife wants it in a chimney breast. I have seen online solutions using metal framing clad in plasterboard to make a false breast. I've put up plenty of stud walls but always using wood. I assume to meet the regs non combustible materials should be used so metal is ideal. Seen it used in commercial offices but not sure where to get it for DIY.
I should point out that the stove will be fitted by a HETAS installer and there is an existing log burner already in place but that is being taken out, the chimney lined and all refitted.
Thanks,
Matt

 

[Doug B]

Ive only used it once to line round an internal flue pipe, I bought the stud work from Wickes.

http://www.wickes.co.uk/Products/Buildi ... /c/1000224

Don't know how competitive their prices are but it was a one off, I found it to easy to install & thought it work out well.

 

[blackrodd]

Done loads in the past, simple to use, but in that environment, you must use fireline plaster board, as standard plaster board will not be any good as it needs a moisture content to be stable, and not crumble in time.
Doug B mentioned Wickes, they stock Knauff materials, studs, track etc which are good, but possibly not a fireline board.
British gypsum do, which is available at any builders merchants, here's a link for a butchers,--

http://www.british-gypsum.com/products/gyproc-fireline
Regards Rodders

 

[flying haggis]

jewsons sell the metal stud and the fireline board ( I know coz i deliver it)

 

[Doug B]

British gypsum do, which is available at any builders merchants, here's a link for a butchers,--

http://www.british-gypsum.com/products/gyproc-fireline
Regards Rodders

Big B&Q's also stock it they may even do the metal studding but I've never looked there for it as I mainly use them for plaster goods

 

[porker]

Thanks for all the answers, very helpful. I found a youtube video of installation and it looks OK to do. Thanks for the info about the fireproof plasterboard standing the heat. I guess I can skim it with standard multi finish or board finish? It's only a small job so I'll take a look at the sheds for it. Was in Aylesbury B&Q today but they don't keep the board or the metalwork but we have a big Wickes near. Not lived in this area long so not sussed out the builders merchants yet. Have to go through the painful process of seeing which ones want to treat you like an idiot and charge a fortune when they realise you are not trade and those who are OK.
Thanks for the pointers.
Matt

 

[blackrodd]

I don't know which utube item you've viewed, but here's a few suggestions,
If you treat the metal stud centres and spaceings, noggins etc, as you would for conventional timber stud job.
As you probably won't have a stud locking tool, either screw the studs at the required positions or pop rivets even.
dodn't let it all flop about, and Always keep the plaster board off the floor, the thickness of the board, using an offcut, and keep moisture etc at bay, noggin well for any required fixings
Bead up with thin coat corner bead, Board finish would be the best finish , and is recommended by BG, I like Carlite and thistle stuff and am not a great lover of multi finish
There are loads of Intumescent fillers, foam and sealers in the average builders merchant, Should you have any problems get there and have a good read up.
HTH Regards Rodders

 

[porker]

Thanks Rodders, Only ever used multi finish for skimming. Done quite a bit of plastering but always stuck with what I know. May have to try something else. Interesting in the video how they let the uprights 'float' until they are fixed. I was wondering how easy the screws cut into the metal.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=caXi1ziHFSc

What prompted the idea was seeing this..
http://www.fahrenheitstoves.com/false-chimney-breasts/

 

[blackrodd]

Floating studs-- When boarding, I start from the wall end forming an external angle, this helps the plastering or jointer
as they have a good end to work from. presentation is better too!
Then also start from the inside, as if you board outside first, it can be pretty dark in there! can't see to screw.
On screwing the first full sheet, You can't be sure where the stud is without keep walking around and adjusting it, usually ending with screws in at an angle on the edge of the studs, and the screws blowing.
Just looked at vid 2, looks very nice, I can see the attraction.
I'd cut the track and studs, test and fit together, fireline the inside, and fix to the wall, inside all done!
That would be left and right projections that form the width first followed by left and right hand returns, forming the front sides followed by the front top last
You may need to score the fireline twice as you have to cut the fibreglass strands that holds the board together in the event of a fire.
I have been on several British Gypsum courses in the past, on one, they showed a film where they have a huge warehouse, build a house inside using materials for testing, and set fire to it, they even test the furniture inside.
post some pics if you have the chance Regards Rodders