aluminium plate 3mm thick for a tablesaw insert plate.

[devonwoody]

I am making a new ali insert plate for my Axminster tablesaw (zero clearance) and I have commitments for two plates, a third person wants to join in the purchase, is there a fourth member who would like a plate or a piece of aluminium.
The reason, the plate supplied is suitable for only two pieces so its means over ordering.
Cost with postage to your address I reckon is £10 for insert or the piece of plate. (plate size spare will be 500m xi125mm x 3mm.)

 

[chippy1970]

Is it safe to make an Ali zero clearance plate as I was trying to make an mdf one for my Elektra Beckum TS250 which at the moment has the factory made 3mm ali insert but with a large clearance hole.

I tried to make an mdf one but you need to remove a lot of the thickness to get it to fit and this weakens it so I thought Ali would be the way to go but didn't know if it could be done.

Probably similar to your Axminster one.

 

[Slim]

Yes it is perfectly possible. Aluminium can be machined with TCT tooling, which you probably already have. Just make sure you wear safety glasses.

 

[TheTiddles]

3mm aluminium won't be very stiff, I would suggest you use stainless instead. I've been playing around with clear acrylic which has a good balance of properties and you can see what's dropped into the pit

Aidan

 

[devonwoody]

Tiddles I think the problem with perspex is the same problem warned to me on the composite Skyboard. If the perspex sinks /cracks/breaks whilst the timber is passing the blade, things could deteriorate and pushstick/hand could perhaps follow down the pit?

I might screw a piece of hardwood longways 18mm x 25mm to the underside of the ali to avoid any sinking, even my axminster insert has longitude supports included.

Stainless steel might be a bit over the top if the blade should get deflected into insert, teeth could staart flying around like bullets.

 

[Quetech]

You should use polycarbonate which is also called lexan but that could be just a brand name.
It's the same stuff they make riot shields out off.
I have used it for big curved boat windscreens and it's as far as I can tell it's indestructible.
But it will scratch so over time you would not be able to see through it.
It is comonly used as machine guards.
However whats wrong with a nice piece of hardwood.

Mike

 

[devonwoody]

Quetech, its the indestructable part that can perhaps also be a problem with zero clearance inserts?

 

[Green]

As Quetech says - Polycarb/Lexan would be suitable but acrylic would not, it shatters easily.

I have made one from 3mm alloy before and had no problems, but that was on a small saw so the distance being bridged wasnt huge. maybe on a larger saw it might sag under load?

 

[devonwoody]

Some years ago I recall ripping an 8ft. length of 8x1 wild grain timber, (sycamore) the blade deflected and hit the insert, I was very happy at the time the insert was soft ali.

No damage was done apart from a serrated ali edge, so I am sticking to ali, if it was a 12mm deep insert, a plastic type plate might interest instead.

 

[MooreToolsPlease]

Why not make it 12mm thick ?
I know I would prefer a plastic of any kind over ali anyday.
Even more so if you were ripping down a reasonable sized piece and the blade did deflect.
Having said that, is a zero clearence insert needed for such a cut?
On the 16" rip blade at work I dont want anythign near the blade apart from the wood being cut!

 

[devonwoody]

The axminster 10" tables is supplied with a 3mm ali plate and it would need a moulded piece if extending to 12mm thick because of iron works below the table top.

We already have sufficient clearance (more than enough in my case) if ripping heavy timber with the plate supplied, its a case of wanting a zero clearance insert for lightweight and small pieces in my case.

 

[Slim]

Why not make it 12mm thick ?
I know I would prefer a plastic of any kind over ali anyday.
Even more so if you were ripping down a reasonable sized piece and the blade did deflect.
Having said that, is a zero clearence insert needed for such a cut?
On the 16" rip blade at work I dont want anythign near the blade apart from the wood being cut!

A piece of 3mm ali would present no problem to a TCT saw blade if it were to deflect.

 

[Anonymous]

Is it safe to make an Ali zero clearance plate as I was trying to make an mdf one for my Elektra Beckum TS250 which at the moment has the factory made 3mm ali insert but with a large clearance hole.

I tried to make an mdf one but you need to remove a lot of the thickness to get it to fit and this weakens it so I thought Ali would be the way to go but didn't know if it could be done.

Probably similar to your Axminster one.

Yes

I have doe this on my Axminster saw -I think a picture is on here somewhere.


I made the plate and bolted it on with the blade lowered, turned the machine on and slowly wound the blade up. No problems as TCT teeth eat through ali like the proverbial hot knife.

Very messy though and I placed a cardboard box above the insert whilst winding the blade up.

When the blade was through, I took the insert out and extended the slot backwards with a jigsaw to allow the riving knife to raise up

 

[MooreToolsPlease]

I'm well aware it would be no problem for the blade to go through it, but what about all of the hot ali swarf being sent out by the saw blade?

 

[devonwoody]

blade guard on and insert gap very wide on the axminster so should be ok and I always have safety glasses on when the tablesaw is running.

 

[markus]

just sticking my ore in here, i have tried making table saw inserts and found out the following,wood/plastic seems to be to thin for the strength needed and flex under load to much, so went for mild steel that can be cut with a jigsaw easily and found that it was the best.did think bout alloy but not tried it yet!!