Advice on disguising an end grain join, please

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I plan to make the desk top illustrated above. The dimensions are 750mm by 450mm. I'll probably finish this to 35mm thick.

The problem is I am short on timber. The 2 outer boards will need to be made fom 2 pieces each and joined end to end. I'm hoping that the long grain join to the centre board will provide sufficient strength.

To disguise the end grain join I propose to insert a 6mm wide band of a contrasting timber and then rout decreasing depth/length channels in both the top and bottom surfaces which I'll also fill with the contrasting timber.

Given the issue of joining end grain should I use a dowel to add some strength - passing this through the 6mm filler?

And before someone suggests buying more timber - I'm trying to use up some bits before SWMBO notices how much I've got!

thanks
Phil

PS - see some of you on Sunday I hope.
 
I think that is an excelent solution. Very attractive to boot!

I would have thought it would be plenty strong enough. However, to be sure, you could glue the 6mm piece to one end and then cut biscuit slots through it for the other joint.

Edit: ...or dowels. Sorry, I didn't read your post properly.
 
I think that's a very elegant solution, Phil. You don't say how you are going to do the long grain joints. I would always use biscuits or loose tongues in preference to a butt joint and I would use biscuits or loose tongues in preference to dowels for the end grain to end grain joint.

Cheers :wink:

Paul
 
Paul Chapman":breweh8z said:
I would always use biscuits or loose tongues in preference to a butt joint and I would use biscuits or loose tongues in preference to dowels for the end grain to end grain joint.

Phil

Those would be my choices, too; in a 35mm thick top you could do a couple pairs of biscuits, upper and lower.

Since you're going to be inlaying the shorter strips of contrasting wood, you might consider also inlaying the one that disguises the join, after you've glued up the joint. It would hide the join just as effectively but be perhaps less trouble than inserting a thin piece of wood between the two long pieces.

Just a thought.
 
Frank's right.

The whole thing will be much stronger if you simply make all your joints with double biscuits and when the glue is set plane and sand it smooth.

Then, rout out and inlay the contrasting wood - including the strips disguising the joins.

I think you have come up with an ingenious and very attractive solution. I will undoubtedly pinch it at some time!

Cheers
Dan
 
If you've never tried dowel jointing before and you don't own a Mafell jointer or a decent jig, it can be right PITA! Biscuits are always the easier option. :wink:
 
Thanks for all the good advice - biscuits it is then. Luckily I have a kind neighbour who will loan me a quality biscuit jointer and may even lend a helping hand to ensure I don't cock it up.

I'll also take the advice to forget sandwiching the 6mm slice of contrasting wood and just rout that out too. Why didn't I think of that ? :oops:

WIPS to follow.
 
just been thinking about this - you could run it into strips and make a kind of block board edge. maybe not for this one, but might be usefull if you have some scraps lying around for another project.

also , there is a way to scarf join them - but I cant remember at the moment the details.

your idea and biscuits are good tho (biscuits was my 1st thought)
 
also - consider having the joined pieces in the center, with the solid for the edges ? yes - you would have to rip it, but there would be no chance of seeing a join on the edge then.
 
Benchwayze":21yjh23t said:
Yep...


If you can't hide it, make a design feature out of it!
:whistle: :whistle: :whistle:

Words to live by; this is entire raison d'etre of a bead at a joint (e.g. two halves of an oilstone box, or the meeting of a pair of doors on a cupboard.

edit: forgot to say; "superb job" to the OP.

BugBear
 
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