Absolute beginner, looking to refit a sail boat interior

[Stevd]

Hello all,

I am completely new here, and completely new to the idea of woodwork and this is my first post here; please excuse the essay.

I recently bought a tired old boat which I am slowly bring back up to speed. I have now practically finished all of the mechanical side of the boat (well, it seems to be on-going and never ending) but I am at the stage where I would like to improve cosmetically the interior.

The boat is from 1980, and to be fair the wood work finish is very good and well crafted. The boat I have is renowned for there build quality, but it looks very dated and drab.

I would like to basically reface what is already there. Make some new cupboard doors, new counter tops and a new chart table. I would like to start by refacing things rather than making complete cupboard units. The way it has been put together in the first place is very modular, so I am hoping to be able to replace a small amount at a time. I also really like the idea of personalising the interior even further by perhaps making a few nautical themed inlays or engravings. I saw one youtube video where they cut a surface with a router and in filled the gap with a few different coloured veneers I think. I thought this could be a great way to create a subtle sea wave effect on the cupboard fronts? I would also like to create a compass rose inlay. So all in all I have a heck of a lot to learn!

I do have a few questions to hopefully help point me in the right research direction;

1. what are the essential tools I should look at getting to get me started. I already have a jigsaw, a dremmel style multi-tool with a corded adapter which I think is for engraving? and cordless drivers and drills. I know I need a router. Will I need a router table, I guess so, but how expensive do I need to go to get me started? Do I need a circular saw table?

2. Can anyone recommend a really good book or instructional dvd's for what I am looking to do?

3. Where is the best place to get decent priced wood from for making such items?

4. What cheap wood is good to practice on?

Sorry for such a long first post. Thanks in advance.

 

[jumps]

Welcome to the forum -

some difficult questions to answer given the scope; so perhaps a few pointers may help

you mention new doors, resurfacing and inlays; you may or may not mean all 3.

1. My guess is that the existing doors will be a teak or mahogany faced marine plywood construction (or some other exotic wood - the only fit out I have done was a Victoria yacht from that era when we used Afrormosia faced ply to construct everything as a new build). The simple options are to replace all the doors themselves with a contrasting wood (get sheets of the same thickness and rough cut oversize with your jigsaw then use a router with a bearing pattern bit to produce exact duplicates from each existing item - treat and install. Quick, easy, and can be remarkably effective.
2. If you wish to add patterns/designs then make a template that will fit all your doors and use a router with either a point or cove bit you can create the pattern very effectively in ply without the need for additional veneer. Experiment with both bit and depth of cut on an off-cut to get the look you want. Set the depth once and do all the doors at the same time once you are happy with the way it looks!
3. You can probably achieve a reasonable compass rose using 2 different depths of cut - depending on the construction of the ply base. An alternative to detailed veneer work would be the use of coloured epoxy filler set into a routed pattern then sanded flat and finished - alternatively I would probably recommend getting a pre-prepared veneer compass rose and using that rather than scratch creation of one; then again it depends on whether it the journey or arrival that important to you (with a sail boat it's usually the former)

Tools wise a reasonable router with a few quality bits to add - although I wouldn't rule out using the dremel for the patterns. A good compact circular saw is generally a better option than a table saw because you can use it in the boat - an 18v Li one may be better than a mains powered one for you. If you are really going to start ripping stuff out and rebuilding then things get different; and workshop tools such as a band saw come into their own!

You may find that PBO (Practical Boat Owner) has past articles dealing with what you are aiming to do.

Suppliers would be someone like http://www.pbplywood.co.uk/ (don't know them but they look a good example of the sort of thing you should look for)

 

[Stevd]

Thanks for the very detailed reply!

I had been contemplating the idea of contrasting woods. At the moment it is mainly teak and teak ply in the cabin. The previous owners has also stained and varnished everything very dark. The current cabinet doors are very boring, they have basically taken a huge piece of teak ply and cut out the hole for the cabinet door and used the same piece. it all lies flush and is very dull to look at. I am pleased to hear that you think that a contrast wood looks ok, as I had thought about it, but I was a little uncertain.

I am unsure on how to put pictures on yet, but if you search for a Moody 33s boat, there are plenty of interior images on there to give an idea.

The idea of buying a compass rose pre-made sounds like a great idea! Any ideas where I could buy such a thing, although I do like the idea of the epoxy as a filler, I hadn't thought about that.

Any suggestions on what wood might make for a good contrast. I am desperately trying to lighten it up. Would an ash ply work?

Thanks for the tips.

 

[Wingy]

Moody 33s eh, blimey that takes me back

I was building Mirage 27's and 29's at about that time, a very similar style of boat, mind you I think many were at about that time. This was followed by a longer spell building Prout Catamarans.

Doesn't really help you but thanks for the trip down memory lane :wink:

Wingy

 

[Stevd]

Both very well respected boat makes. Did you fit the interiors?

 

[Stevd]

Here is roughly how the interior looks at the moment. ( this isn't my actual boat, this one is in better shape, its just a picture I have found on the internet)

I would like to replace the plate racking system with actual cupboards, and also the cupboards down the side. would it look peculiar if I did have such a big contrast with the parts I won't be replacing such as the bulkhead? The woodwork is quite a bit darker on mine.

 

[Wingy]

Both very well respected boat makes. Did you fit the interiors?

Yes I was involved in all aspects of the build, from laying them up in the mould and fitting the keels to fitting interiors and soft furnishing, never got involved in rigging though.

The Mirage boat interiors used teak (sometimes cherry) faced marine ply, finished with button polish then waxed, I think many around that time used the same techniques. Just oiled teak to the exterior deck fittings and yacht varnish to vertical locker lids.

Wingy

 

[jumps]

I was thinking westerly or moody from your description...

To get a cap idea of how things might look you can either use photos and photoshop or print a few pages of your preferences veneer and stick them over the doors with double sided tape. If you do go ahead I would recommend retaining the old doors as an option as and when you sell it.

As for plate racks - a case of function over form if you wish to use China plates after a snotty crossing!

 

[finish_that]

Useful tool to get would be a Fien style oscillating multitool - for detail sanding and more particularly cutting things
in awkward places - lidl had them on sale last week - when you need one not much else will do the job

 

[Stevd]

Great, I saw those in lidl the other day, I will pick one up.

With regards to the wood to be used, I will need to use ply for the large areas due to the nature of the boat environment. But for the actual locker door fronts I will need to use solid hardwood to be able to get the type of design I am after? Or would I just need to use hardwood for the putter edge of the cabinet/locker door (the part that I will be routing)?

If I was to do it this way, how far out are the colours likely to be?

Also, after looking around I have noticed that a lot of places won't machine the wood to the correct thickness or a good finish to work with straightaway. What's the best way of keeping the wood? Can get t be done by hand with a hand plane' sorry for the real basic questions.

 

[Stevd]

Its a great idea re the Photoshop. I shall have a look to see if there is lockers similar to what I am after on google images.

 

[custard]

would it look peculiar if I did have such a big contrast with the parts I won't be replacing such as the bulkhead?

Only my opinion Steve, but yes it would look peculiar. As you know back in the 80's most boat interiors were teak or mahogany, today the fashion is for lighter woods like, ash, cherry, or unstained oak. I've seen a few interiors that have been "updated" in exactly the way you describe, and to my eyes it looks as bad as a car with different coloured doors. Funny you posted this because I took advantage of the great weather on Tuesday and sailed over to Yarmouth, moored next to us was an older Halberg Rassey (maybe a Monsun?) I could see through the companion way that she had oak cupboard doors planted on the original teak joinery, smashing boat but not a good look!

As an alternative what about stripping away the finish on the existing interior and revarnishing with a matte, non yellowing acrylic varnish? That stays true to the original design but gives a contemporary twist.

 

[jumps]

would it look peculiar if I did have such a big contrast with the parts I won't be replacing such as the bulkhead?

Only my opinion Steve, but yes it would look peculiar. As you know back in the 80's most boat interiors were teak or mahogany, today the fashion is for lighter woods like, ash, cherry, or unstained oak. I've seen a few interiors that have been "updated" in exactly the way you describe, and to my eyes it looks as bad as a car with different coloured doors. Funny you posted this because I took advantage of the great weather on Tuesday and sailed over to Yarmouth, moored next to us was an older Halberg Rassey (maybe a Monsun?) I could see through the companion way that she had oak cupboard doors planted on the original teak joinery, smashing boat but not a good look!

As an alternative what about stripping away the finish on the existing interior and revarnishing with a matte, non yellowing acrylic varnish? That stays true to the original design but gives a contemporary twist.

I have to agree that it is extremely unlikely to appeal to everyone - hence the suggestion to retain the originals!

I'm still slightly confused as to whether the intention is to create accents or a refit.

Hardwood in the thickness appropriate to the doors wouldn't be my recommendation either - maybe a thick veneer and trim if it's intended to profile the outer layer without going through to a contrasting layer - but with any curved corners edge trimming becomes a problem.

 

[Stevd]

Yeah I think you are right. The problem is one of the previous owners has stained the wood work very dark and then vernished over it. It seems like a lot of days/weeks/months of scraping with a heat gun to remove it?

If I did go down that route I would still like to update the locker fronts, but I guess I am best just sticking to teak?

In the forward and aft berths there are just opening to what is essentially shelving covered in floor carpet, which isn't amazing looking either, so I thought I could also put cupboard doors over these as well.

Another job on the to do list is to replace the cabin sole boards with holy and teak, any suggestions where I might find a supplier?

 

[custard]

Another job on the to do list is to replace the cabin sole boards with holy and teak, any suggestions where I might find a supplier?

Robbins delivers all over the country, not the cheapest but you can rely on their quality

http://www.robbins.co.uk/marine/index.asp

 

[Peterthegardener]

Find a copy of "Boat Interior Construction" by Michael Naujok, the look may be dated for what you want but the construction techniques should still apply.