A Wax Finnish

[maverick54]

Got a snooker cue butt that I have sanded on my lathe and I would like if possible to finnish it with a wax finnish. Ive been told that 100% beeswax is no good as it goes sticky after about 10mts use. So bearing in mind this item will need to be handled on a regular basis can any one recommend a wax product that may be suitable and wont go sticky with handling.

 

[Bodrighy]

Microcrystalline. It is a very high temperature melting point and ideal for anything being handled a lot. Seems expensive but a little goes a long way.

Pete

 

[marcros]

Microcrystalline. It is a very high temperature melting point and ideal for anything being handled a lot. Seems expensive but a little goes a long way.

Pete

Yes, I was about to say all of the same things.

The stuff I have is Renaissance wax. I also use it on cast iron tables, because it saves buying anything else, and because whilst expensive per unit, a little really does go a long way.

 

[Spindle]

Hi

I know you've expressed a desire to use a wax finish, but in this case where it will be constantly handled I'd think about using an acrylic base followed by wax. In my opinion, wax alone will not be resilient enough to prevent staining from sweat etc.

Regards Mick

 

[maverick54]

Thanks guys, Microcrystalline does appear expensive just checked it out, what acrylic would you suggest Mick, its going onto ebony. Would french polish maybe do the job?
Was hoping for wax as I thought there would be less chance of me cocking it up.

 

[Spindle]

Hi

I use the clear gloss spray lacquer here:

http://chestnutproducts.co.uk/results.php?cat=Lacquers

Several thin coats are better than trying to apply too thickly and risking runs.

Regards Mick

 

[Bodrighy]

Microcrystalline was invented for the British museum to coat any material from parchment to metal and whilst it seems a lot of money a tin of it will outlast a larger tin of normal polish so it actually works out cheaper in the long run. Varnish, acrylics etc are gong to look awful very quickly as they wear off whatever it tells you on the tin, especially on something like a cue which gets a lot of handling. I'd give it a month of use before it starts to wear off. Also ebony being an oily wood that sort of finish is going to sit on the top and not really give a good finish. To be honest I don't think that you need to apply any wax or other finish to a wood like ebony in this case as you should get a good finish without it and the natural oils usage would soon penetrate the wood in time.

Pete

 

[tekno.mage]

I've used Osmo Oil (a very durable and water resistant hardwax oil) on ebony to good effect - but if one snooker cue butt is all you will ever use it for it's an expensive option! However, it can be used on all kinds of wood (not just turnings) and has the benefit of also being food & toy safe. It will eventually wear away, but will not crack or flake like a lacquer will and by the time it has worn off with handling, the ebony will have achieved a natural sheen and patina from handling in any case.

The way I use it is to apply a very thin coat, then wipe off an excess with kitchen towel, allow to dry for 24 hours then apply another very thin coat and wipe off again. After another 24 hours I buff up the work on a buffing wheel to give a glossy sheen.