A quick tool sourcing question

[Kalimna]

Greetings folks,
As part of my uke build, I have come across the need for a 4mm Allen key at least 25cm long.
If such a thing exists, can anyone suggest where I may purchase one?

Many thanks,
Adam S

 

[rileytoolworks]

Adam, I've never come across an Allen key that long in that small a size.
You may be able to use a bit of hex bar, and put a nice turned handle on the end.
Check out eBay, it's not that expensive.

All the best.
Adam.

 

[CHJ]

You need a hex drive extension, either rigid or flex. or a couple of short ones linked to take a 4mm hex allen bit. Possibly a universal joint if you need the right angle approach.

 

[Kalimna]

Thanks chaps. I think another idea is called for. Essentially I am attempting to use a bed bolt/barrel nut combo to attach the neck to the body of the uke, and my grubby fingers can't manipulate a standard Allen key through the sound hole, so I figured if I drill a hole in the end the the ukes' body I could access that way. Time for a rethink.

Cheers,
Adam S

 

[bodge]

I use hex socket bits driven by a quarter drive ratchet through the sound hole. The fact that it gives a 90 degree turn works a treat. May be worth looking at?
I did once find a 20cm, 3mm hex/allen key on eBay to adjust the mixture screw on an old car, so don't give up hope of finding what you need. How would you cover the hole in the lower bout? End pin maybe? or an end graft?

 

[SteveF]

could you fit a flexi drive through the gap

maybe with a small ratchet and extension bars ?

Steve

 

[Spindle]

Hi

See here - 0.154" BMS hexagon £1:21 per meter, (strictly speaking 4mm is 0.157" but what's 3 thou :wink: )

Note. this is not tool steel and as such you will not be able to achieve the same torque as you would with an allen key.

http://www.mkmetals.co.uk/catalogue/154

Regards Mick

 

[Eric The Viking]

Possible solution: cut the angle off an Allen key; weld to steel bar, say around 3/16" diameter, end-to-end. It doesn't need to be in perfect alignment, as long as it's pretty straight.

I've done this very successfully with a 3mm long-series drill bit. It's now about 16" long, and used for drilling down the middle of 6mm MDF, as used in dolls house floors and walls. MDF is weaker/less dense in the middle, so the drill doesn't wander much, and the holes let me run cables for light fittings.

I made a wooden jig: U-shaped piece of board, with two grooved blocks across each end of the U. Clamp bar down one side and drill t'other and push together in the middle. It helps to grind them to an oblique, so the joint is a 'v' you can fill with weld/braze/silver solder. If welding, preheat with a blowlamp to get a good joint (I used a MIG). When done, gently file or grind to get the joint fairly smooth. You could easily use steel studding (threaded bar), which is found in 1m x 6mm lengths from Toolstation, Screwfix, etc. Bend the end over in a vice to make the 'handle'.

It really is easier to do than explain, if you've got either a MIG set or a MAPP gas blowlamp (latter for silver soldering/brazing - you might get away with propane).

If you're going to try this, I suggest you make your tool first and test it for strength before committing to the design!

I've done a similar thing with a Torx screwdriver. One of our Philips cassette radios has torx screws holding it together, at the bottom of very deep holes. In that case the Torx shaft was removed from the plastic handle by heating it (and melting the plastic), then simply had some 8mm copper pipe squeezed round it with mole grips.
Looking back I should have welded it to some bar really - would've been easier to use.

HTH,

E.

 

[tool-me-up]

can you not buy these in singles? http://www.tool-me-up.co.uk/hex-key-long-length-set-7pce-25---10mm-380799-59194-p.asp

 

[KevM]

Although definitely overkill for one job, some of the previous posts are far more practical solutions, I thought I'd mention some excellent tools that aren't very common over here. I've got a set of the Xcelite 99 series nut runners, screwdrivers and hex keys that I picked up years ago. With a couple of their extension pieces you end up with an extremely versatile tool kit that's proved invaluable on a number of occasions. Unfortunately I've long since lost the Imperial hex keys, and I've lost the ball off the end of one of the metric keys (entirely my fault - I was torquing the living daylights out of it).

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/hex-keys-sets/0538763/ - I doubt I'd buy them for a single job at the prices RS are charging, but if you can pick up a used set they're very versatile.

 

[Eric The Viking]

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/hex-keys-sets/0538763/ - I doubt I'd buy them for a single job at the prices RS are charging, but if you can pick up a used set they're very versatile.

+1, They really are excellent quality. I worked for a US company for a while and had some in the toolkit at work. I've only now got one screwdriver, but it's very nicely made.

 

[tool-me-up]

£11 delivered 300mm long allen key http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bondhus-H...Hand_Tools_Equipment&var=&hash=item5d3e250673

 

[iNewbie]

Not sure how much space you have to turn it.

 

[Jacob]

There's loads of 1/4" socket sets out there. One of them will have all the right bits, such as this one:

 

[Billy Flitch]

I don't know how many bit holders you have, fit one inside of the other till you have the length that you want.

 

[Kalimna]

Thanks for all the replies folks - some great suggestions. I think I shall plump for the socket set idea, seems to me to be the easiest way forwards, and even if not the cheapens it would provide some tools for other uses.
Eric - whilst at heart I'm something of a pyromaniac, I have never welded anything in my life and purchasing a mig setup is perhaps a little overkill Otherwise, I like the idea.
Bodge - I had planned on using an end pin, which I'm not sure are traditional on ukes, but would hide it nicely.

Cheers
Adam S

 

[SteveW1000]

One method not mentioned is something that came in a toolmakers cabinet I bought. A length of steel rod probably 8mm in this case, drill into the end about 12mm deep just under the point to point dimension of the allen key. Cut a length of a 4mm allen key about 25mm and force into the hole drilled into the rod, Drill a cross hole at the other end of the rod and insert a cross rod handle. Can be made any length within reason. Depending on use may need a bit of epoxy, locktite or a grub screw to secure the allen bit. The ones I got varied in the actual make up some just using a press fit and some securing the bit mechanically.

Steve

 

[WibbleWobble]

Hi Kalimna,

In a previous life I have serviced HP wide format printers, they have several hard to access 4mm Allen screws, if you can find a tame HP engineer you might find that they have a spare long reach Allen key.

I know I've got a couple somewhere, if you struggle drop me a PM and I will look one out and send you a picture to see if it is what you would want. If it is I will happily send you one.

Wibblewobble

 

[Kalimna]

Wibblewobble - thank you for the offer. My current Plan B is to use a shorter (yeah, I know) allen key that I can manipulate through the soundhole (the allen keys I have are from a Stanley pack, ball ends, and are 'mid length' - thusly will fit through the soundhole, but my chubby fingers cant actually turn them). If that doesnt work, then I may take you up on your offer, thank you.
Unfortunately I dont know any HP repairmen....

Cheers.
Adam

 

[tnoy66]

I might have a t bar style I no longer (no pun intended) use, I'll have a look later