A few more questions for a total novice...

[mattyd]

Hi All, i'm back and looking for answers!

Two things i'm hoping someone can explain..

On this very forum I got some fab advice about making a guide for a circular saw, I wonderderd if such a thing (off the shelf or hand made) was available to help guide a hand saw in a straight line and also perpendicular to the wood?

And, please take a look at this thread
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/view ... hp?t=32756

Can someone explain how the Karl (the thread started) made the apparently scuffy/rough wood so tight, clean and polished. I notice there are some planes in the background - would he of planed it all down?

And a few images down from the top, he looks to be glueing wood together, what kinda glue (if any is used).

I know I could ask Karl myself, but i'm to lazy

cheers!

 

[jammie*dodger]

On this very forum I got some fab advice about making a guide for a circular saw, I wonderderd if such a thing (off the shelf or hand made) was available to help guide a hand saw in a straight line and also perpendicular to the wood?

We used to use them in school so they must be able to be bought now. A wooden channel with slots at 45 and 90 degrees on either side. Think it might have been called a mitre block?

And, please take a look at this thread
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/view ... hp?t=32756

Can someone explain how the Karl (the thread started) made the apparently scuffy/rough wood so tight, clean and polished. I notice there are some planes in the background - would he of planed it all down?

And a few images down from the top, he looks to be glueing wood together, what kinda glue (if any is used).

I know I could ask Karl myself, but i'm to lazy

cheers!

I think he used a planer thicknesser - he mentions one in the text. the glue looks like bog standard wood glue. You can see the yellow bottle in one of the pictures.

Rob.

 

[MikeH]

In the text Karl stated "The timber was nice and flat - no twist or cupping/bowing. So I passed it straight through the thicknesser. I then edge jointed each piece by hand"

So he has used either a stand alone thicknesser or a planer thicknesser. The former is a machine that is single purpose, thicknessing timber. The latter is a machine that can be converted between surface planing and thicknessing, the surface planing would be used to remove cups and bows before thicknessing. The single purpose machines tend to give a better result but are more expensive generally and need more space as you have two machines. A planer thicknesser takes up relatively little space and with some good setting up will produce excellent results. A planer thickneser can be got new from about £350 upwards but as always you get what you pay for.

Karl has then edge jointed the boards by hand using a plane, looks like a No. 7 Jointer but can't really tell for sure from the piccie.

 

[Oldman]

Silverline 408978 190 mm Mitre Box £3.27 at Amazon

Small Mitre box with two 45 degree and one 90 degree guide on each side. Manufactured using top quality beech wood this mitre box is ideal for small mouldings and model making.

 

[Karl]

Hi Matty

I used a Makita thicknesser to bring the wood down to the required size. Each piece was then hand jointed with a No 7 plane to give a straight edge. That straight edge was then used against the rip fence of the table saw, and each piece was ripped to the correct width. Finally all faces were given a clean up with the No7 to remove any snipe/tearout from the thicknesser.

The glue is just normal PVA.

Cheers

Karl

 

[mattyd]

Cheers guys, great help...Iv been reading up on planers today - Yep...i'm pretty clueless

One more question - this time regarding hand planing a door/wood and the quality of plainers..

About two years ago I attempted to fit a door (it was solid wood) anyway, to a point things where going well, but the house was old and the frame was slightly deformed/angled - I had to plane quite allot of the door to get it to fit. I was using a pretty cheap (£4-5 b&qs own brand) plastic planer, when using it it would constantly get caught in the wood, at points it was more like using an axe than a planer.
Anyway....my question is this - Was the problem me (user error) or the fact that I used a cheap and cheerful planer, or both even?
Also, what are peoples opinions on electric planers?

Silverline 408978 190 mm Mitre Box £3.27 at Amazon

Small Mitre box with two 45 degree and one 90 degree guide on each side. Manufactured using top quality beech wood this mitre box is ideal for small mouldings and model making.

Cheers, but thats not quite what I ment, when I mentioned a guide I kinda ment a guide that would help me saw straight over a long distance, maybe 1-3ft lenths or similar?

thanks again

 

[jammie*dodger]

Cheers, but thats not quite what I ment, when I mentioned a guide I kinda ment a guide that would help me saw straight over a long distance, maybe 1-3ft lenths or similar?

thanks again

Sounds likie you want a straight edge clamp, like this http://ptreeusa.com/edge_clamps.htm

Rob.

p.s. the door was probably the plane

 

[big soft moose]

Also, what are peoples opinions on electric planers?

In my experience the cheap hand held ones are worse than useless - principally because the sole is often not flat - the only thing i regularly use mine for is taking down finger posts a touch if the mortice is a bit tight and its fairly rubbish for that - id be better off with a plane , but i dont want to take my planes to work as they would get both wet and dirty.

the powered planer units that are pedestal based are a different kettle of fish - we got an old multico one from G&M for 70 quid and it works a treat.

 

[mattyd]

Also, what are peoples opinions on electric planers?

In my experience the cheap hand held ones are worse than useless - principally because the sole is often not flat - the only thing i regularly use mine for is taking down finger posts a touch if the mortice is a bit tight and its fairly rubbish for that - id be better off with a plane , but i dont want to take my planes to work as they would get both wet and dirty.

the powered planer units that are pedestal based are a different kettle of fish - we got an old multico one from G&M for 70 quid and it works a treat.

Not a fan then ? Im guessing most would rather use traditional ones. Are there any recomended makes, or are they all much of a muchness?