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- Thread starter Claymore
- Start date
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Hi Brian,
You could put masking tape on the wood before pasting pattern , it makes life so easy--- I also used Pritt types sticks but found it caused wrinkles which took ages to dry.
I now use spay adhesive from a local pound shop it works really well if I wait 5 mins or so before laying on pattern
John
You could put masking tape on the wood before pasting pattern , it makes life so easy--- I also used Pritt types sticks but found it caused wrinkles which took ages to dry.
I now use spay adhesive from a local pound shop it works really well if I wait 5 mins or so before laying on pattern
John
Bit queer! just spent ages typing out a reply went to post it and it vanished!!!
Anyway - I use glue stick only for small patterns and apply glue to paper and smooth onto wood immediately. for larger patterns I use crafters companion repositionble spray adhesive the purple can, which I can now purchase from 'the range' for £4.99 a can. it makes the paper basically turn into masking tape which then peels off easily,(when you want it to - usually) especially if you cover it with clear tape.think the general rule of thumb is the more tricky the cut the more likely the paper is to lift!!!! To try to get around this I spray too much on in close cut areas :lol: not sure if it is infallible but it makes me feel better :roll:
Gill
Anyway - I use glue stick only for small patterns and apply glue to paper and smooth onto wood immediately. for larger patterns I use crafters companion repositionble spray adhesive the purple can, which I can now purchase from 'the range' for £4.99 a can. it makes the paper basically turn into masking tape which then peels off easily,(when you want it to - usually) especially if you cover it with clear tape.think the general rule of thumb is the more tricky the cut the more likely the paper is to lift!!!! To try to get around this I spray too much on in close cut areas :lol: not sure if it is infallible but it makes me feel better :roll:
Gill
PeteG
Established Member
I use masking tape first Brian, Screwfix do a really nice wide one, think it's about 75mm. Then I use Wilko's own brand of Pritt Stick for the pattern, then finish with tape.
I tried one of the repositionable sprays from Hobby Craft, found it next to useless and haven't gotten round to trying a different make. With a few items that I make, I made wood templates, so I draw round them straight on to the wood, usually it'll be birch ply.
I tried one of the repositionable sprays from Hobby Craft, found it next to useless and haven't gotten round to trying a different make. With a few items that I make, I made wood templates, so I draw round them straight on to the wood, usually it'll be birch ply.
Droogs
Not the Sharpest Moderator in the box
Hi Claymore:
on the few occasions where I don't use rabbit glue, i have used these quite successfully:
http://www.labelplanet.co.uk/removable-labels.php
on the few occasions where I don't use rabbit glue, i have used these quite successfully:
http://www.labelplanet.co.uk/removable-labels.php
nadnerb
Established Member
Hi Brian
I have experimented with different ways of putting on the pattern and I find the best way is as follows
1. cover one side of the wood with masking tape, I use both 3 inch and 2 inch depending on the size of the piece
2. Using a glue stick ( I don't use Pritt ( too expensive, the Pound shops have 4 or 5 sticks for a couple of quid) and coat the underside of the pattern liberally .
3 stick the pattern to the wood. I always select and glue down my patterns at the end of the day so that the glue sets overnight , and getting started the next morning is more enjoyable because I can start cutting straight away.
4. In the morning I cover the wood with clear packing tape, only cover the side with the pattern stuck on. I use a good quality tape, sellotape is too thin and the thicker the tape, the more it lubricates the blade. if you use a one handed tape dispenser thingy ( a indispensable piece of kit in my opinion) be careful, don't pull the tape tight as you put it down. I find that if the tape is pulled tight, as you are cutting the tape will contract and pull up the pattern. Its better to lay the tape on the pattern and smooth it down with your hand
5. Drill the pilot holes
6. Sand the back of the wood to remove the tear-out left by the drill, this makes the cutting much easier
7. When you have finished cutting, remove the pattern. The masking tape makes this job easy because the pattern is not stuck to the wood
Hope this is a help, Like I said after many trials and errors this method works the best for me
Regards
Brendan
I have experimented with different ways of putting on the pattern and I find the best way is as follows
1. cover one side of the wood with masking tape, I use both 3 inch and 2 inch depending on the size of the piece
2. Using a glue stick ( I don't use Pritt ( too expensive, the Pound shops have 4 or 5 sticks for a couple of quid) and coat the underside of the pattern liberally .
3 stick the pattern to the wood. I always select and glue down my patterns at the end of the day so that the glue sets overnight , and getting started the next morning is more enjoyable because I can start cutting straight away.
4. In the morning I cover the wood with clear packing tape, only cover the side with the pattern stuck on. I use a good quality tape, sellotape is too thin and the thicker the tape, the more it lubricates the blade. if you use a one handed tape dispenser thingy ( a indispensable piece of kit in my opinion) be careful, don't pull the tape tight as you put it down. I find that if the tape is pulled tight, as you are cutting the tape will contract and pull up the pattern. Its better to lay the tape on the pattern and smooth it down with your hand
5. Drill the pilot holes
6. Sand the back of the wood to remove the tear-out left by the drill, this makes the cutting much easier
7. When you have finished cutting, remove the pattern. The masking tape makes this job easy because the pattern is not stuck to the wood
Hope this is a help, Like I said after many trials and errors this method works the best for me
Regards
Brendan
bodgerbaz
Established Member
After spending years with Pritt-Stick, Sellotape, masking tape and nails!! I finally heard of using an A4 single label and have never looked back. No curling or lifting and you get coverage over the whole pattern.
At get maximum use from the label I photocopy/print several items to cut and enough to fill an A4 sheet.I then arrange them and Pritt-Stick them onto a sheet of A4 paper. This becomes my 'master' for future cutting. Whenever I want to cut them out I photocopy the 'master' but insert an A4 single label sheet in the tray and there you are.
Once it's printed out just loosely cut around the shape and stick it on to the wood and cut out the shape. Once the shape has been cut out remove the remnants of the label from the work. If you stick it, cut it then remove the label straight away it should be fine but I have had a few problems when I've left the label on the wood for a few weeks. But all you need to do then is apply some gentle heat with a heat gun and it usually peels off quite happily.
Just my way of doing it for what it's worth ;-)
Barry
At get maximum use from the label I photocopy/print several items to cut and enough to fill an A4 sheet.I then arrange them and Pritt-Stick them onto a sheet of A4 paper. This becomes my 'master' for future cutting. Whenever I want to cut them out I photocopy the 'master' but insert an A4 single label sheet in the tray and there you are.
Once it's printed out just loosely cut around the shape and stick it on to the wood and cut out the shape. Once the shape has been cut out remove the remnants of the label from the work. If you stick it, cut it then remove the label straight away it should be fine but I have had a few problems when I've left the label on the wood for a few weeks. But all you need to do then is apply some gentle heat with a heat gun and it usually peels off quite happily.
Just my way of doing it for what it's worth ;-)
Barry
Brian.
I have always, first covered the wood with masking tape, then glue stick (Pritt type) to stick the pattern down, have used this method for many years, pattern rarely lifts.
Don’t dispose of any old store cards, etc, they are excellent for smoothing the masking tape/pattern to the wood, excluding any small air bubbles, as this is what allows the pattern to lift.
All the best.
Chris R.
I have always, first covered the wood with masking tape, then glue stick (Pritt type) to stick the pattern down, have used this method for many years, pattern rarely lifts.
Don’t dispose of any old store cards, etc, they are excellent for smoothing the masking tape/pattern to the wood, excluding any small air bubbles, as this is what allows the pattern to lift.
All the best.
Chris R.
Chippygeoff
Established Member
Some very good advice there. We all have our favourite method of applying the pattern to the wood. I would just like to add that after applying the clear packing tape over the pattern make sure you firmly smooth it over, if there is a crease or an air pocket it will fill with dust as you are cutting and could obscure the line of the pattern. Anotherr tip. when cutting thick oak for example, it is a lot harder if the wood has been kiln dried, apply 2 or 3 layers of clear tape, it will be much easier and the cutting quicker without fear of any burning.
