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I dont know how much help this will be, but my fence for the old style bosch pof 500a fits the makita plunge base a treat

I used the standard t&g floor panels, laid on roofing batons over a concrete raft. The battens allowed a bit of gap for insulation (little poly balls). I have a combination tablesaw/planer-thickneser on it now and have had no issues with the flooring. The combo machine is on a mobile base.

Take a look at this product page, these are the current makers - the saw and planer shown are the same machines as the luna but more uptodate. EJCA Maskin AB - Ledande maskiner för proffs, skola och hobby

The blade can come from anywhere as long as the hole in the middle is the correct size, it's not too large in diameter to fit the table and its a TS blade (mitre saws blades can match bore and diameter but will have a different tooth profile I think)

The only thing most doorlocks keep out is an honest person, most can be bypassed or forced. Picking is for fun not illicit entry (mostly) Take a look at Deviant Ollam (YT) he is a Pen(etration) Tester in America, hired by companies to test their security. He opens doors with plastic (credit...

Mine will not run unless the huge plug between the two halves is connected, I dont have the mortice table but the mortice chuck just fits to the end of the planer block. I think switching the selector to 'mortice' just reverses the rotation of the planer block.

I have a Luna W59, not seen spares other than blades. I make my own inserts for the saw

Are there any markings on the gears?

I've been looking at LN router planes, everywhere is out of stock including Axminster, the order I placed with them Thursday afternoon (not a router plane) arrived Friday morning.

Congratulations Steve, A hard slog, a damn good read and the support from the forum and friends hopefully gives you a hint of the high regard in which you are held. I'm looking forward to seeing some door making jigs next :-)

I had my lights and sockets on the same circuit, when the tablesaw tripped the CB the lights went out too. I now have a consumer unit in the garage too .........

Steve, is it worth contacting your insurer to see if they have a list of approved locks? And a question on nails if I may, it looks like you are using the same Paslode framing nailer to attach the cladding as you used for the framing. What nails (length & guage) are you using please? keep on...

Hi Steve, big fan of your work! I looked into the door opening options a while back. The main reasons I took away for the door opening inwards was physical security. Its easier to block your front door with your security chain, body etc when opening and trying to peer out to see if its your...

Ahh, old thread, I was confused about Steve not mentioning his Bandsaw DVD (which is excellent). IMHO the two best things that improve a Bandsaw are the blade and Steve's DVDs, the Lonnie Bird Bandsaw book is good too. Oh, thats three - dang it!

This a five year old post of my bandsaw box and I've been meaning to do some more, the images have dropped off the post - oops. I'll go back and edit the links (but I've got to do the boxing in the bathroom first) https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/bandsawn-box-t12632.html Picasa Page...

Very nice Brian, some shameless tool sneaking going on in those pics though :mrgreen:

I like it, I know its made up and they do/say stupid things, but it often gets me told off for laughing out loud

Hi Custard I made the doors myself, trawling back through my hazy memory the hardware was £150-200, timber around £150 (all softwood) and £80 on Osmo finishing stuff (I went uber on the finishing, to make up for the pine). The door themself are basic stuff, pegged mortise and tenon frame with...

+1 for sliding doors Video of my door

Hi Greek Enigma, No not broken, that hole at the back is where you can fit the extraction hose, if you don't have a dedicated workshop vac, you can use your household vacuum cleaner (for short periods). The dust is very bad for you, do everything you can to avoid breathing it in, extract as...