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Hi, I'm building some fitted furniture into someones living room. Along one of the walls they want the appearance of two alcoves with cabinets and shelving in them. I'm putting what can only be described as a fake chimney breast in the middle, to create the alcove effect. There's some existing...

That was extremely useful, thanks. I think I'll make some veneers on my band saw. I'm not sure there's a better way..

Hi. I'm designing a sideboard in a contemporary style, using some cherry wood that's been sitting in a forest for goodness knows how long. It's extremely well seasoned, but will need a good drying out. Because of the style I don't want panels anywhere. I'm using the web frame method of dry...

Not really a tool, more an accessory... However, I spend a lot of time sanding with a power drill and drum attachment (no dust collector available). This bad boy really helps with extraction when placed to collect the dust. Much cleaner work shop...

Does the maker carry them as a spare? That would be my first point of call. If you've done that already you could try making one and using a stick on tape measure...?

I've used water based varnish on chalk paint with no difficulty, just make sure it's completely dust free before applying - I use my midi dust extractor for this. You might also consider a wax specifically for chalk paint like the one from Rust-Oleum. I prefer the wax myself, it's more tactile...

Thanks for the tips Wallace. Using feeler gauges is a great idea to level the beds.I think it still needs a service though and I simply don't have the time or knowledge to give it a thorough seeing to. In the mean time I'll follow your suggestions and thanks again. If there is someone in the...

Hi, I was hoping there would be someone able to get to Hastings, East Sussex who knows a thing or two about the old Cooksley models? It's working just fine for the most part, but needs a bit of a service. I cannot get the planer beds absolutely level with each other, the feed roller isn't doing...

When I was looking for a p/t (only a couple months ago) the 1150's were going for the £400/£500 mark, so all being well you definitely got a great deal. Nice one :)

That sounds pretty decent compared to my local hardware shop. I ordered two sheets of ply for delivery. He threw them over the wall of the back garden and when I complained to him and asked him to help me get them in the workshop..... He told me to f*** off!!

Well it's all done and everything working just fine. I didn't need to change the switch in the CU in the house because it's a 32a with 4mm SWA running into it. Incidentally, I did turn off the main power into the house to disconnect the live wire in the workshop switch. Not sure why you would...

I stand corrected. I'll be using 2.5mm for the 16 amp plug.. I'm using flex for the plug to the socket and 2.5mm T&E for the fixed wiring. Thanks for the concern, I'm getting a spark to sign it all off. I'm not bonkers!!

Will do. Thanks all..

It's definitely 16amps for arctic cable, but thanks...

Thanks both. I'm using one of these so the socket is surface mounted. I'm curious to know why this would make a difference between the arctic and T&E http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/16-Amp-3-Pin- ... xyOlhS577I The p/t is less than 5m from the socket. I'm running the cable up over head and across to...

Hi All, I'm finally at the last point of getting my old Cooksley p/t up and running. Very exciting... I'm putting a consumer unit in the workshop for the 16amp plug and also to tidy up the current set up. I'm crystal clear on everything except I'm not sure about which cable should come from...

I learnt to use it with "sketchup for woodworkers". I found the style very clear and everything explained properly. Some of the so called tutorials on YouTube give no advice on how to use the software and the number of times you hear "space bar, triple click, G for component" is horribly boring...

Thanks all for the input. I think threaded inserts are the way forward. I'm also bearing in mind the ability to assemble/dismantle the table time after time and this seems the strongest option. I've taken measures to work with seasonal movement so this won't be an issue. Thanks all again...

I'm working on a table design which uses steel as the frame. Customers will have to attach the frame to the top themselves and I think the best way to make this easy is to drill holes where the bolts will go and set thread barrels inside. My question is what best product to use for securing the...

Not sure I understand what you mean. Fails in what way?